D-Style

I would change the Temp sensor then.. causes some problems which people try changing the AFM and o2 first only to find out the Temp sensor is the problem.

Tomei, Sard do JDM downpipes. have a look at Nvidia if they have one for TS JDM

Came across some sales brochures on a Japan website which listed each Rev model blitzen, which said that front LSD was standard fittment. When Autolign in Hams rebuilt my shocks, they said that the "shims" use on the shocks were different to what they normaly came across when rebuilding RSK blisteins. (I can only think that is the Shims use to set the piston valving, but never really followed it up as In the process of selling car)

Werent front lsd optional extra on RSK? wheres Blitzen came as Standard?

Body kit, front LSD, wheels, and different suspenion ratings. Engine/ ECU same as RSK.

My old RS, I played around with the water cooler(change out for a different type) and pump side (Full time operating, and tried different pump/flow rates) Heat soak wasnt as bad. **I have installed a WAIC on a RB30DET R32 at one stage. The main difference is we made up a cooler box using a A/C condenser hook up to the car A/C system. So the liquid cooling the WAIC was cooled by the A/C system. We were seeing single digit temps once system was up and running. Main issue with this setup is in summer after you had switched off engine, we were getting condensation in the intake system.

In the Garage Section theres a v11 JDM and v12 Aus STi which have done Mods and ECU reflash. There are settings in the ECU with regard to SI-Drive, but dont have the logs to see what it controls atm. But you only need to tune one map. What other mods have you done?

The Diaphragm failed on a mates one and nearly melted engine. Ended up rebuilding it using a new diaphragm and havnt had trouble since.

If Iw as to remove a blocked cat on a MY06and replace with straigh pipe(car is bone stock), would it still past WOF?

Maybe so... They have a very high regard here in Aussie and on NASIOC. 100\'s of tune\'s to date. The Aussie Forums rate them more highly than the local tuners (who are over 2000kms distance from where we live) I\'ll put my hand up and say I\'m not good at the finer details of Tuning MAP\'s, but with the amount of high reviews, the ease and helpfulness of the tuner via emails, and thae fact that $200 odd vs. Cost of Dyno tune 2000kms away. No problems to date, happy with results. TO some poeple on the CS, this might be a option. Hell maybe some people on here could start up a side business doing same sort of thing......

Roady\'s are easy to the leyland crash box that I drove from London to Nairobi Starting to show your age now....

You just think your driving an old Roadranger box dont you

A Few "Mine site" 4x4 driving courses ive done is the same thing. Funny thing, each course provider teachs things in a different way, one will say 9-3 and thumbs in while another is 10-2 thumb outs. Thou ive had a few debates regard downshifting while slowing down.... Rio Tinto used to do a 4x4 recovery course teaching how to 4x4 drive and recover stuck vehicles. Very good course. Now due to HS&E, they not longer do it.

You can use the Torque Performance guy for $150US. Very highly regarded on NASOIC. My Bro in-law has use him to tune his STi. He does tunes if you dont have a wide band. Remote mapping without a wideband in my view is akin to playing russian roulette with your engine. I have mapped identical cars on paper with the same mods using my own base map as a starting point which I know to work well for that spec of car and the AFRs outcomes have been very different. In some cases up to 1 AFR point leaner which is enough to kill an engine if left uncorrected. There are multiple factors which can affect this. Without a wideband reading you have no way of knowing this. I\'m not trying to be a kill joy but keen we are all aware of the risks. this is completely true. we never ever tune without a wideband. its best practice to be prepared and go balls deep than do a half baked plan I do agree that wide band is best, but if you are experinced, you still can do a conservative tune without wideband. Our case, we only had one tapping point for 02 sensor, The Nvidia Downpipe has a casted S/S flange which isnt really easily welded. On talking to the guy at Torque, he can do tuning without wideband, just its a conervative tune and takes a few more datalogs than normal. (every log there wasnt one knock correction logged) When the Bro-in-law switches to E85, then wideband will be used.

much easier to get high HP out of a RB... Be interesting to see a R35 drive train in a GDB

What brand of shocks?

Dont they have a sedan?

Temp sensor

Playing around with the oil holes is a black art. Even little changes in the angle of the holes chamfer has different effects. Theres a few theory books (manily on V8\'s) which go into good detail about bearing design. I think Keep to the basics with regard to this, oil flow, oil pressure and correct clearances.

Really? Ive only seen leather in my old Rev B and this one. My father in laws Blitzen isnt leather either. My Rev C Blitzen had full black leather. Blitzens were meant to have Leather as Standard. Rev D\'s had two tone Black/Red as option A few Rev A-C B4\'s had the 2 tone black/blue leather.

Most Blitzen\'s came in full leather. But full black looks much better than the 2-tone leather that the Rev D Blitzen\'s normally have.

You can use the Torque Performance guy for $150US. Very highly regarded on NASOIC. My Bro in-law has use him to tune his STi. He does tunes if you dont have a wide band.

From memory, the legacys have an output for the "Turn spotlights" find that output, use that to drive a NC relay contact which will turn off the DRL while indicators are working. You would need to put some resistors in the indicator circuit so the Flasher unit will work at normal flashing speed.

Looks like you have Reg pipes wrong way round.

The 22B body shape is the overal best. Every STi Coupe should of had a body like that...