How do boost controllers work?

[ben-jamminn]

Ok so I have a turbosmart boost tee (car came with it), which i would like to convert to either standard or an electronic boost controller, as i'm told the way boost tee works is pretty crude..

anyway can someone explain the difference in the way the different systems work, between standard, bleed valve, and electronic.. i like to know how things on my car work haha,

Here is a picture of my set up, i have two blanked off lines, what do i need to put where, to take it back to stock?

[Pappu1]

for what it is the boost tee is fine if u running mildly increased boost and not screwing it right to the max (due to ever so sklight fluctuations)

the hoses should run from turbo to tee and then to gate.

do u have an external?

[Durty-Sanchez]

Background - Your turbo has a outlet from the compressor side that supplies pressurised air that is fed in to the wastegate diaphram. In the diaphram is a spring, which will begin to move once a certain pressure is reached, and eventually is fully pushed in when full boost is reached.

Every system mentioned simply tricks the above system in to doing the same s*** but at different times.

Standard - The manufacturer put's a t-piece in between the turbo and wastegate and plumbs that to a normally closed solenoid. So essentially it's the same setup as mentioned above but with extra piping. Now the ECU is pre-programmed to open this solenoid rapidly under certain situations. The effect of this solenoid opening is that it creates a hole in the piping, a hole from which pressurised air escapes, thus delaying the wastegate diaphram spring from being fully pushed in (the other side of the solenoid is the atmosphere). The idea behind opening the hole rapidly is that you can assume that if the hole were open for half as much as it were closed the hole looks to only be 1/2 the size of the full size hole. Now if the hole were open 3/4 of time and closed 1/4 the time the hole now appears to be bigger (3/4 the size of the full hole). The larger the hole the more pressure is "bled" from the system, so the more pressure is removed and unable to open the wastegate. That's a rough guide of pneumatic control.

Electronic - This replicates the above except unlike the factory ECU you get to control it and do the settings. Other than that it's almost exactly the same as the standard method of control.

Boost-T - This is the analouge version of the above two. The T-piece is adjustable so you can select the size of the hole you want, which then delays the time it takes to create the amount of pressure to open the diaphram. Its simple and effective, but lacks the ability to adjust the hole like the above methods do because to adjust the unit you need to stop, pop the hood, and tinker with the device manually. You can use this in conjunction with the standard boost control to simply "up" the boost while retaining some form of electronic boost control.

[ben-jamminn]

cool that makes sense! thanks ;D

[familyman]

Fantasticly written there Sanchez. Thought of freelancing for NZPC mag? They need some good writers I hear.

[Stoffa]

Electronic ones usually come with a much better , faster acting solenoid which make most of the difference.

[Durty-Sanchez]

 familyman said:

Fantasticly written there Sanchez. Thought of freelancing for NZPC mag? They need some good writers I hear.

Thanks, although I'm sure I've seen the editor posting tranny porn of himself on /b/ :-\

^{If Pdizzle reads this, soz bro - happy to accept a job offer though!}