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Subaru engines - Reliable


ozzy

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 keltik said:

Except the electrics are shitty, they like to blow head gaskets and make bugger all power when you consider a tuned EA81 makes the same as a stock EA82t...and they do this if you crank the boost up

scaled.php?server=24&filename=wowtok.jpg

From looking at that it ran a bearing first hence all the heat damage before it exploded

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 boostcut said:

mate if you had any mechanical knowledge you would know what im talking about.. you make yourself look like a fukn imcompetent retard doing shit like that

Please explain to me how a well run in motor can glaze bores?

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Guest boostcut
 justlooking']

[quote name='boostcut said:

mate if you had any mechanical knowledge you would know what im talking about.. you make yourself look like a fukn imcompetent retard doing shit like that

/quote]

Please explain to me how a well run in motor can glaze bores?

i hate it how people ask questions and then you give them an answer and then they question you integrity. a glazed bore can happen in two situations. too much oil or not enough oil.. if your engine has fucked oil control rings oil will bypass compression rings and be burnt by the combustion cycle and make a film on the bore of burnt oil or the second way is the engine running too rich and petrol in the blow by gas washing the needed amount of oil off the bores causing them to overheat and they end up glazing the bores. then the piston rings and skirts have less friction and hence the engine will last longer. a smokey engine is extremely hard to kill

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You dont think excessive bore wear would be more of a contributor to blowby and/or excess oil consumption in an older motor? Though to be fair, I cant say I've had much to do with EJ20's but certainly older motors its usually the case.

Bore wear is often why old motors wont blow up when you thrash the bejesus out of them, the extra clearance gives less friction. Ditto with race prepped motors ;)

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Guest boostcut

did you read my last post about oil control rings??? i do know what im talking about mate.. but feel free to keep arguing

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  • General Member

chill bill - I said it before - everyone learns in a different way

I'm not denying your right - its like the moon landing - I wont believe till I see it with my own eyes - same applies here

your info is appreciated and don't get snotty if ppl like me have their own "theories" - because that's what they usually are

you may need to get the ol' crayons out and explain it a bit more clearly to some ppl but your time is NOT wasted here, every little tit-bit helps the general knowledge of "us" (myself included)

 justlooking said:

You dont think excessive bore wear would be more of a contributor to blowby and/or excess oil consumption in an older motor? Though to be fair, I cant say I've had much to do with EJ20's but certainly older motors its usually the case.

he even said not much experience in his post - did you not read that either?

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Subaru engines reliable? LOL. I don't know how many blown engines you guys have had in NZ, but in the UK the amount of engine failures we have had are in stupid figures. Just recently, a guy with a MY08 hatch with less than 1k miles and still running in spun a big end bearing!! Subaru wouldn't cover it under warranty as apparently the guy thrashed it to within an inch of its life. He says he never took it above 3k revs, but who knows?

I've owned my Type-R for over 3 years and it's now on its THIRD ENGINE! I bought the car when it had just had a rebuild costing $11.2k. Within 6k miles the engine failed again. I hardly drove the thing and always changed oil every 6 months/3k miles, but never covered more than 1.5k miles in a year (which is extremely low), so the 6 months always came first. The engine was still under warranty but the guy that built it didn't wanna know. ::)

I've recently had the engine rebuilt for $11.8k and am worried it might fail again, so I haven't driven it.

Engine1.jpg

Engine12.jpg

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Engine3.jpg

Engine4.jpg

Engine9.jpg

Engine7.jpg

Engine8.jpg

Engine10.jpg

Engine11.jpg

Turbo:

Engine2.jpg

Turbo.jpg

Turbo1.jpg

Amazingly, the rods were/are perfect!

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Even the engine builder was a bit surprised how bad it was and couldn't pin it down on anything specific. He said it could've been down to when the previous build was done and a valve which wasn't perfectly straight. He's told me to get the fueling checked once I've run it in, to be on the safe side. That's if I can ever get it run in, lol.

Basically, the pistons have hit the head on the left bank, then a valve seat has come loose and gone through the turbo, killing that in the process.

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Thats a proper mechanical failure ! Not a bearing failure

Valve has bent due to piston contact

So either broken valve spring/ broken camshaft or cambelt jumped casued this

This has caused the valve to bend / break and has also broken the tip of the valve guide (now lodged in your turbo)

The damaged bearing is subsequent due to impact damage that would have happen when the piston travel was halted by the debris

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Subaru engines = Reliable

But if your subaru engine = fast

deemed subaru engine = not reliable

My car = low kms, services regularly and properly, drive like a nana unless i suddenly get the urg to strip some vtec honda = reliable as fuck, never breaks down, starts first pop every time and doesnt make any sticky lifter noise. (had to fix a few things on the car when i bought it like radiator headder upgrade to steel tank, new starter motor, new Idle control valve) and since doing that ive had no problems what so ever

just remember lads, it may be cool to boost 20pounds au but it aint cool when you gotta fork out for that replacement turbo / bottem end :P

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 Ichi Ban said:

Thats a proper mechanical failure ! Not a bearing failure

Valve has bent due to piston contact

So either broken valve spring/ broken camshaft or cambelt jumped casued this

This has caused the valve to bend / break and has also broken the tip of the valve guide (now lodged in your turbo)

The damaged bearing is subsequent due to impact damage that would have happen when the piston travel was halted by the debris

Fo sho! A major failure. My cam belt was still timed up and hadn't jumped a tooth, so that was ruled out. I'm still p!ssed that it let go, but it's just one of those things.

The tuner that rebuilt it had never seen a cylinder head destroyed like mine, in all the rebuilds they've done.

When I was driving the car, I was only doing 50-55 MPH. No warning, all I heard were bits of metal break up and something passing through the exhaust. At the time, it didn't sound that bad, but once it was stripped down, the true picture was painted. I was running 1.4 bar on a VF28.

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I forgot to say EG33 is Bullet proof. I hadnt blown engine in my 1992 SVX. And I would drive it hard. also for a long time there it was the car i drove from home to work on very cold mornings and drove it hard then to when cold :-[

Ive never had to do any work to it apart from fitting new water pump. its up to 260,000 plus Kms

Auto ive blown 2nd in it tho :(

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  • General Member

75% of the time I would have to say BEB (not from personal experience yet) is responsible for their failure

the rest of the Time ditches seem to jump out in front of them... (going by the multitude of TM auctions for parts)

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