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new motor wont run


shrug

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I just built a new motor or the rs and it wont run. it wont even make vacume. when i tryed give it a tow start the brakes stayed hard and didnt power up, and my electric boost controller was saying that it was making between 1 to 2 psi. this was with no acceleration an just towing. the machanical gauge is showing no vacume as well. HELP ME WHAT IS UP WITH THIS!!!! any idea's?

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 forcefed said:

Who rebuilt engine, is it all assembled correctly? everything pluged in?, just woundering to how come your tow starting a new engine??

+1 why would you tow start a new engine ?

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I built it, its winding over, it wouldnt fire but got spark and fuel, so gave it a tow start, i done the timing by lining up the crank cog with the mark one on the cog to the mark thats up by the crank sensor, cam timing was done with single mark up and lining up with the mark on plastic cover, the bottom cam lined up with the double marks to the top cam, i wound it over a couple of times with a rachet and all marks lined up after that. When i tow started it not to be making vacume has me stumped, what would cause this. And be making my gauge read 1 or 2 psi boost when it should be in vacume, i used a low k block that i pulld running and just done steal gaskets and etc. Every other time i have towed a car and let my foot off the clutch it has had vacume and the vacume assisted brakes have worked and softend up. What can be causing me to have no vacume. I am so lost on this.

All help appeciated.

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what timing mark did you use on the arrow or the notch in one of the "wings" of the sprocket

does the check engine light go out when cranking? - it should do

Have you checked for codes?

Only crank/cam and coolant emp used by ECU to initially fire engine, all other snesors ignored

I'm thinking if all this ok then you have more than likely put the cams in incorrectly ie, inlet and exhaust reversred

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And yip check light drops off, gt spark n fuel

I dont understand the no vacume and making boost when towing when it should be making vacume, usually if u tow a car and let ur foot of the clutch u get vacume and the brakes soften up, they are still hard. What can be causing this please help someone must know. I need my car going, all help appeciated

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 Ichi Ban said:

what timing mark did you use on the arrow or the notch in one of the "wings" of the sprocket

does the check engine light go out when cranking? - it should do

Have you checked for codes?

Only crank/cam and coolant emp used by ECU to initially fire engine, all other snesors ignored

I'm thinking if all this ok then you have more than likely put the cams in incorrectly ie, inlet and exhaust reversred

ive actually done this twice!... but that was a long time ago

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 shrug said:

Done what? Does anyone actually have any suggestions to what is wrong, and did i use the right timing marks, pretty sure i did

Ichi Ban said:

I'm thinking if all this ok then you have more than likely put the cams in incorrectly ie, inlet and exhaust reversed

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I did read u smart fuk, dont think im gunna lie down and take your shit. I was probally building cars well u were swimming in your daddys sacks. I was asking for suggestions and replying the best I could answer. No need to be a smart ass buddy. I was asking wat mark u use one the crank pulley. Sure I used the right one. Used the notch not the arrow. I just went and bought a new cambelt so I got the marks, il put that in tonight and let u all know how I go

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 loren']

[quote name='shrug said:

Done what? Does anyone actually have any suggestions to what is wrong, and did i use the right timing marks, pretty sure i did

/quote]

Ichi Ban said:

I'm thinking if all this ok then you have more than likely put the cams in incorrectly ie, inlet and exhaust reversed

even if its upside down it will still start..

my money is on the crank sprocket not being on the right position as ive done this on my first build, one arrow pointing up and the other one to the right, so chances are the timing ois off.. and also sensor isn't plugged in, this happened to me when i changed a oil pump and the plug was dodgie.. the other is the cam sensors.. and last of all the plug under the AFM isn't plugged in properly.

where are you at? if u are in wellington i can rock around have a look

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 shrug said:

I did read u smart fuk, dont think im gunna lie down and take your s***. I was probally building cars well u were swimming in your daddys sacks. I was asking for suggestions and replying the best I could answer. No need to be a smart ass buddy. I was asking wat mark u use one the crank pulley. Sure I used the right one. Used the notch not the arrow. I just went and bought a new cambelt so I got the marks, il put that in tonight and let u all know how I go

::)

Good one mate...

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Have you changed the top right cam sprockets or the crank gear??

Cause they have X amount of teeth on the back to trigger the cam and crank sensor. If you have a newer or older pulley on chances are tehy will have different teeth adn the ecu wont know whats going on.

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 nt_a_foz said:

Have you changed the top right cam sprockets or the crank gear??

Cause they have X amount of teeth on the back to trigger the cam and crank sensor. If you have a newer or older pulley on chances are tehy will have different teeth adn the ecu wont know whats going on.

Shouldnt be this if its getting spark and fuel thow brad

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 forcefed']

[quote name='nt_a_foz said:

Have you changed the top right cam sprockets or the crank gear??

Cause they have X amount of teeth on the back to trigger the cam and crank sensor. If you have a newer or older pulley on chances are tehy will have different teeth adn the ecu wont know whats going on.

/quote]

Shouldnt be this if its getting spark and fuel thow brad

good point ....actually though did the legacy have fuel and spark when we had that problem???

Just thinking aloud here, the one cam pulley that has teh teeth on for the cam sensor is the passengers inlet one, is it possible it got put on the drivers inlet insteaD? and the sensor having no teeth to read off?

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