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coil-over identification and adjusting


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hey guys , took a wheel off today to have a look at what suspension it had, well they were unidentifiable at first but after a good scrub revealed what looks like Tein adjustables??

could anyone help me to identifiy what model these are? They could be pretty old because the previous owner of 10 years (imported in 2000) thought they were factory adjustables, so could well have been fitted in Japan.

also I want to raise the front end a bit but dont have the tools, is there another way around this besides getting the Tein wrenches?

DSC06732.jpg

not much to see from the top but anyway

DSC06736.jpg

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Guest vf20/21bg5

yep they are old if they are Tein, did you see tein stamped on them? And as for tools, you dont need a special one! all you need is a hammer and a chizzel....thats how i adjust mine,very simple if you can picture how to do it ,if you cant i can explain further as so to save you money

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Guest vf20/21bg5
 sti8u said:

the hardest part is getting them equal height around the car ah?

nope, just measure the thread as you go on each one and its got to be even ;)
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 CP93MM']

[quote name='sti8u said:

the hardest part is getting them equal height around the car ah?

/quote]nope, just measure the thread as you go on each one and its got to be even ;)

ohhhh good idea.i never really knew how ud do it.just heard it was a mish.that why i never tried adjusting mine whn i bought it haha

there tein's thoe theyr the same as mine

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 CP93MM']

[quote name='sti8u said:

the hardest part is getting them equal height around the car ah?

/quote]nope, just measure the thread as you go on each one and its got to be even ;)

nah dont do it that way..loosen the lower lock nut..a chisel and hammer works good but remember they are alloy..i think youll have to undo the 2x bolts on the lower shock mount and wind it up to make it lower and wind it downwards to make it hier....dont measure the thread as how do u know if its equal to start with?? i put the car on the ground and measure from the center of the hub to the top of the wheel arche..this way is accurate and is a way to check it against what the cert height is as this is how the cert people measure them :P

hope this helps..

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Yeah there is no need to undo the bolts. Just loosen the bottom ring first, then you can adjust the top ring by banging it. I wouldn't use a chisel though, I've used a flat-blade screwdriver in the past. You'll stuff your chisel!

Just ensure the spring is still captive if you are lowering it, otherwise it's a failed WOF / cert.

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yep I found a label, it was mid way up around the back...funny place to put it I thought, need a bloody mirror to read it :P

They are Tein Super Street NR and a bit of research tells me they ceased production in 2000. They are certified for 320mm front and 330mm rear, but I would like to make em even all round. Hitting the railway tracks in town sounds and feels like the cars going to fall apart, not something I like to hear at 6am on the way to work. Plus its fucking up the gaurds on hard corners.

tried to adjust them but 1) I forgot to measure before jacking it up. 2) my piddly lil hammer is crap, need to borrow one from work ::)

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you are only allowed to adjust them 5% either way from the height they are certed at, otherwise you'll end up pink stickered. As they are only height adjustable make sure the springs are still captive when your shock is fully extended

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 Scoobydoo']

Yep, if you adjust it more than the tolerance then you'll need to get it re-certed. Lowering the rear 10mm is still within tolerance so you'll be allowed to do that.

[quote name='Stoffa said:

you are only allowed to adjust them 5% either way from the height they are certed at, otherwise you'll end up pink stickered. As they are only height adjustable make sure the springs are still captive when your shock is fully extended

ah what?? that sucks balls >:(

hang on now how do you work that out?

5% of 320=16 , so i can adjust them 16mm either way?

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Guest vf20/21bg5
 Scoobydoo said:

Yeah there is no need to undo the bolts. Just loosen the bottom ring first, then you can adjust the top ring by banging it. I wouldn't use a chisel though, I've used a flat-blade screwdriver in the past. You'll stuff your chisel!

Just ensure the spring is still captive if you are lowering it, otherwise it's a failed WOF / cert.

a blunt chisel ;) so u dont ruin it :P my screwdrivers are expensive ones :-*
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 CP93MM']

[quote name='Scoobydoo said:

Yeah there is no need to undo the bolts. Just loosen the bottom ring first, then you can adjust the top ring by banging it. I wouldn't use a chisel though, I've used a flat-blade screwdriver in the past. You'll stuff your chisel!

Just ensure the spring is still captive if you are lowering it, otherwise it's a failed WOF / cert.

/quote]a blunt chisel ;) so u dont ruin it :P my screwdrivers are expensive ones :-*

Use a big pin punch i.e. round end rather than flat bladed end. Won't as big a gouge in the teeth of the nuts.

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 sir_pixalot said:

may I ask what your setup is scoobydoo?

Uhmm.. I have Buddyclub Racing Spec Dampers in my V7.

CoiloversLarge.jpg

But this doesn't relate to my previous comments. At the time when I did such rangi things, I owned my Legacy and had HKS suspension, and after that, Tein suspension, both coilover setups, height, damper and camber adjustable. At one stage I had my wagon super low and I think it was certed to about 300mm front and rear haha.. but it wasn't very comfortable driving around on it... super bouncy!

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