twin to single turbo conversion codes

[Guest]

Yay progress, been busy with uni stuff and my car has just sat at home waiting for me to finish it.

I found that the power source for the ecu (pins 2 and 13 plug A) were only getting 2.3-4 volts so I just used the back up power for those pins.

Gave it a crank and got a few pops. I have fuel and spark but havn't got it to start just yet but I think I am close.

I checked for codes and had code 45 flash at me (pressure sensor?) but no others. Does this mean that all my sensors are working?

[rex-leggy]

 Dodgy_GT said:

Yay progress, been busy with uni stuff and my car has just sat at home waiting for me to finish it.

I found that the power source for the ecu (pins 2 and 13 plug A) were only getting 2.3-4 volts so I just used the back up power for those pins.

Gave it a crank and got a few pops. I have fuel and spark but havn't got it to start just yet but I think I am close.

I checked for codes and had code 45 flash at me (pressure sensor?) but no others. Does this mean that all my sensors are working?

it means there is an issue with the absolute pressure sensor ..... there should be leftover wires that run strait back to the ecu that you can use

[Guest]

Oh yea ;D , not worried bout that for now, I think I just got a pin wrong. what I was getting at is if I only have one error code are the rest of the sensors ok? it would still start without the pressure sensor wouldn't it?

[Koom]

If you've got fuel and spark then most of the sensors should be working. The low voltage on the main power feeds is a little bit strange. I'd investigate why thats so low rather than just bypass them.

If it pop's but doesn't start it could just be that the ignition signals are round the wrong way. As an experiment (i.e. don't let rally drivers loose under the bonnet of your car) my wagon was (attempted) started with the coils plugged into the wrong cylinders. It popped alot but wouldn't kick over at all.

When I was at the same point as you on a single turbo project, I had an issue with the firing order from the ignitor as the different pinouts floating round where a bit ambiguous. From memory I spent some time swapping coils around one side at a time til it idled nicely and actually rev'ed.

[Guest]

Yea I figured it would be the firing order, just gave it another crank and code 23 AFM? came up. did the same pop pop as before.

[gazzy2000]

watch your plugs dont get fouled from too many crappy starts, i had issues with mine upon first startup tripple checked EVERYTHING, in the end it was just fouled plugs from a previous issue, grrr.. anoying as!

[rex-leggy]

i bet ! sending you in all directions too

[gazzy2000]

 rex-leggy said:

i bet ! sending you in all directions too

yip, i was Spanners 'the hamer thrower' Watson ;D

[Guest]

Haha nice , yea its a bit of a pain the placement of the plugs so you can't check them in 2 minutes like a "normal car". I had some spare coils and plugs which was handy for checking spark.

On another note is there a difference between ISC valves's between models and years? and do I need an Idle switch?

[Guest]

Checked the plugs and they seem fine, still getting spark and fuel :-\ hmmm what to try next??

[rex-leggy]

hmmm is it trying to start? ignition sequence correct?

[Guest]

Ocationally it semi fires but mostly it just cranks and thats it, I switched a couple of coil plugs and also on another attempt i switched pins at the ecu.

I put some fresh fuel in it thinking that there was a slim possiblity that it was off with no luck : Im pretty sure that the firing order is THE issue but I have no idea how to check without testing all possible combinations by switching them around. btw I gapped my plugs at 0.68mm

[rex-leggy]

.68 is quite a small gap . i know my standard gap is 1.1 and others close it up to .8

so you have spark on all 4 ..... i would change everything back to how it was .

label each coil and try ever combo making sure you write it down so you dont miss the magic combo

[Guest]

Was thinking I might re-gap to 0.75mm. I spent a couple of hours reading about spark plug gaps on the net and some people run as small as 0.6 in street ej20's. the turbo book I have suggested err on the smaller side.

Tomorrow im going to try all manner of things. re-test fuel (should really buy a fuel pressure gauge), switch ignition pins, sledge hammer to the engine etc

[Koom]

I ran 1.1mm until I was putting >22psi into it and then only went down to 0.7mm and it didn't det at 27psi until I ran out of fuelling.

[Guest]

Yea there are soo many opinions on gaps, could a small gap affect starting?

[Koom]

Possibly. I think.

[Guest]

Ok so I think I have the firing order right, did an interesting test involving using a spare coil and plug and placing it on the manifold (pluged in) and also had one of the fuel lines off which is pretty dodge however, anyway with the ignition on i manually turned the engine and got spark but also pulses of fuel. my problem is my fuel pump is not priming the fuel system when I turn the key on.

What controls when the pump is triggered?

[rex-leggy]

do you mean when the injectors are triggered? thats done by the ecu involving the timing

[Guest]

No, the pump. what triggers it to prime and what triggers it to run?

[Koom]

The ECU does, once it knows that the sensors are working. Not sure if it will allow the pump to prime if theres a dodgy sensor connection but won't let the pump start when cranking without the crank and cam sensors.

[Guest]

Its going intermitedly when cranking triggered by cam sensor or something?? It is not priming however.

I figured it was because the yellow and green strip ecu power supply wires run via the fuel pump relay from the ignition (maybe?) and that was only getting 2.35v for what ever reason.

I have tried to figure out why it only gets 2.35v but I don't know where it goes once its enters the maze of wires.