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Engine wont start


igkgunn

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Hi Guys and Gals.

Have had my car running for a couple of weeks now but suddenly today it seemed like it dropped a cylinder and then just died, and now it wont start.

When I turn key the starter motor turns the engine over and there's no grinding sounds or anything, so battery is fine and starter motor obviously running. Ive checked the fuel feed and the fuel pump is definitely working. The coils and igniter don't feel hot to touch.

Luckily I was very close to home and got home before it died, but what else can i check?

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I'm running a possumlink and it's not showing up any check engine light. The lights all go away as they should normally once key has been turned. Unless there is a different process for getting codes from a possumlink, nothing is coming up

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 igkgunn said:

I'm running a possumlink and it's not showing up any check engine light. The lights all go away as they should normally once key has been turned. Unless there is a different process for getting codes from a possumlink, nothing is coming up

Go to the link engine management site..download the program to suit your link. Connect it to your laptop and it will tell you what is going on. Or take the car to your local link dealer/tuner

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 soopersubaru']

[quote name='igkgunn said:

I'm running a possumlink and it's not showing up any check engine light. The lights all go away as they should normally once key has been turned. Unless there is a different process for getting codes from a possumlink, nothing is coming up

/quote]

Go to the link engine management site..download the program to suit your link. Connect it to your laptop and it will tell you what is going on. Or take the car to your local link dealer/tuner

Yeah im trying to get ahold of a serialLink in chch now to plug it in

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Okay don't know of anyone with a serialLink to borrow, but had a wee squiz this afternoon in the sun.

Fuel pump definitely is flowing well

Checked cam angle sensor, seems to be fine

Checked crank angle sensor and upon refitting engine made a charging noise associated with turning key that it hadn't been doing yesterday.

Tried starting engine again and it was firing one cylinder but only one. Also saw a bit of vapour making its way out of intake.

I was originally thinking it would be a spark issue and might need to check coils and plugs, but I'm now wondering if there is an issue with cam belt slipping or something despite cam belt being replaced just last year.

Any advice?

Going to check coils now.

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 igkgunn said:

Okay don't know of anyone with a serialLink to borrow, but had a wee squiz this afternoon in the sun.

Fuel pump definitely is flowing well

Checked cam angle sensor, seems to be fine

Checked crank angle sensor and upon refitting engine made a charging noise associated with turning key that it hadn't been doing yesterday.

Tried starting engine again and it was firing one cylinder but only one. Also saw a bit of vapour making its way out of intake.

I was originally thinking it would be a spark issue and might need to check coils and plugs, but I'm now wondering if there is an issue with cam belt slipping or something despite cam belt being replaced just last year.

Any advice?

Going to check coils now.

Have had a failed alternator give these symptoms. Disconnect the main wire and try to start the engine.

Just be careful not to earth the wire!! It's live! Could be!

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I cant remember which way around it is but a cam/crank sensor will stop fuel/spark if its bung or unplugged. Just cos it looks ok doesn't mean it is ok.

That "charging" sound your talking about is probably your fuel pump priming everytime you turn the ignition on. If it doesn't turn on every time that may be where your issue is.

I would start by changing cam and crank sensors, just borrow some off a car you know is working.

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 Stoffa said:

I cant remember which way around it is but a cam/crank sensor will stop fuel/spark if its bung or unplugged. Just cos it looks ok doesn't mean it is ok.

That "charging" sound your talking about is probably your fuel pump priming everytime you turn the ignition on. If it doesn't turn on every time that may be where your issue is.

I would start by changing cam and crank sensors, just borrow some off a car you know is working.

nah it wasnt the fuel pump making that noise, i think it was the ignitor. the fuel pump was definitely working when the noise wasn't. I think when the ECU detects an abnormality with the ground or cam/crank sensors it cuts power to the ignitor.

Im pretty certain it will be a spark problem as one of the cylinders was trying to fire when last i tried. ive pulled the coils out now and at least one is shagged so in the process of changing them to later wasted spark setup. might change the ignitor too

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 igkgunn']

[quote name='Stoffa said:

I cant remember which way around it is but a cam/crank sensor will stop fuel/spark if its bung or unplugged. Just cos it looks ok doesn't mean it is ok.

That "charging" sound your talking about is probably your fuel pump priming everytime you turn the ignition on. If it doesn't turn on every time that may be where your issue is.

I would start by changing cam and crank sensors, just borrow some off a car you know is working.

/quote]

nah it wasnt the fuel pump making that noise, i think it was the ignitor. the fuel pump was definitely working when the noise wasn't. I think when the ECU detects an abnormality with the ground or cam/crank sensors it cuts power to the ignitor.

Im pretty certain it will be a spark problem as one of the cylinders was trying to fire when last i tried. ive pulled the coils out now and at least one is shagged so in the process of changing them to later wasted spark setup. might change the ignitor too

Have you checked the alternator? disconnect the charge wire and try to star the engine. Computer could be detecting over voltage and partially shutting down. Seen it happen.
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 WRXONP said:

the only real way you can test a cam or crank sensor is with a scan tool with osilloscope functions so you can graph the out put pattern . . . but easiest way is to try some off a known running motor

you could also do a basic impedance check to see if the sensor coil is still good. the coil/pin solder joint is usually what fails. if you cut into the plastic housing carefully you can repair the connection. also check the bottom of the sensor is clean.

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Thanks guys, i have tried disconnecting the alternator and it didnt make a difference. I will try taking the sensors out and clean/test them tomorrow. Half way through converting to wasted spark coils just freaking annoying when you dont have your car to pick up parts you need.

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not trying to sound pessimistic, but converting the ignition system can introduce more problems

it would be good to find the issue with your current setup first.

if you can't access your aftermarket ecu error codes, borrow another factory ecu and it will throw a CEL code for you. its the best place to start - and rule out a number of potential problems.

otherwise i can think of heaps of other stab-in-the-dark things to try (and waste your time with) :D

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You definitely have a point but under inspection of the coils at least one is completly fucked. I have the old ecu but when i changed to link i also changed to yellow injectors from grey so worried about that again causing more issues. I think i may have access now to a serialLink and will order my own to get a diagnostic from that. Feel free to fire off any ideas, i appreciate the help even if it doesnt solve the problem(s). Just crossing my fingers that it isnt anything too expensive

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even with yellow injectors just fit standard ecu . try and start it . then pull faults . even pull the codes before starting it . if its a open circuit fault you won't need to have it running for it to pick the fault up. chances are it will still run on yellows with stock ecu just rich as bill gates :-) has it ever ran perfect with the link ? if you still have the maf wiring stashed away in your bay plug the maf back in . or just do it any way without it you will just get the maf code as well

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  • 3 months later...

So I chucked in the factory ECU and grey injectors went back in, also changed back to coil on plug setup. Car ran like shit for a little bit but then died. No fuses or relays blown, no check engine light. I am starting to think this has blown the factory ECU too.

Anyone know of any good auto sparkies in chch?

Getting very discouraged with my car not running and then being crashed into with the guy doing a runner (and low on funds). After all of the work put in, I'm thinking of hocking it off...

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 igkgunn said:

So I chucked in the factory ECU and grey injectors went back in, also changed back to coil on plug setup. Car ran like s*** for a little bit but then died. No fuses or relays blown, no check engine light. I am starting to think this has blown the factory ECU too.

Anyone know of any good auto sparkies in chch?

Getting very discouraged with my car not running and then being crashed into with the guy doing a runner (and low on funds). After all of the work put in, I'm thinking of hocking it off...

ring dean a t locost automotive tell him craig from resurrection audio sent you. tell him your prob and he will get his auto sparky out to see it. hes good and cheap. he has all the tools to find out what needs to be done. cant remember the number but ring him dean in whit pages locost automotive. 59a rowan ave in bexly

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 resurrection.inc']

[quote name='igkgunn said:

So I chucked in the factory ECU and grey injectors went back in, also changed back to coil on plug setup. Car ran like s*** for a little bit but then died. No fuses or relays blown, no check engine light. I am starting to think this has blown the factory ECU too.

Anyone know of any good auto sparkies in chch?

Getting very discouraged with my car not running and then being crashed into with the guy doing a runner (and low on funds). After all of the work put in, I'm thinking of hocking it off...

/quote]

ring dean a t locost automotive tell him craig from resurrection audio sent you. tell him your prob and he will get his auto sparky out to see it. hes good and cheap. he has all the tools to find out what needs to be done. cant remember the number but ring him dean in whit pages locost automotive. 59a rowan ave in bexly

thanks man, ill have a look for him

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