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Bung Viscus in front diff 2003 sti


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Hi unfortunatly i have been told that the viscus in the front diff is bung :( does anyone no someone that noes a bit about subies and could fix this??

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 Sumeet1990 said:

Hi unfortunatly i have been told that the viscus in the front diff is bung :( does anyone no someone that noes a bit about subies and could fix this??

Has any one heard of a front VLSD doing this, as it makes me wonder how you would bugger one,a centre i can understand but a front ???

Where are u located,I think u should get a second/third opinion....

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 DRFVDR']

[quote name='Sumeet1990 said:

Hi unfortunatly i have been told that the viscus in the front diff is bung :( does anyone no someone that noes a bit about subies and could fix this??

/quote]

Has any one heard of a front VLSD doing this, as it makes me wonder how you would bugger one,a centre i can understand but a front ???

Where are u located,I think u should get a second/third opinion....

Have to agree here! likely the centre diff.

What are the symptoms??

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send it to me

Never heard of a front diff viscous failure

Whats the gearbox code? you might have a mechnical front diff

my $$ are on wrong gear oil / or tyre issue

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 WRXONP said:

theoretically the viscous unit it self can't f*** out . . what's the symptoms ?

FAIL

viscous units fail in many applications

centre diffs

older vehicles with viscous fans

to name a few

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really ? my bad as i was taught the sealed viscous unit is not serviceable it should last for ever . but then again i just realised how wrong i was taught because i have seen Toyota viscous fans rooted and just free wheeling even when motor over heats . .

what happens to the viscous that will stop it shearing ? does it brake down ? high km thing though aye ?

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the viscous fluid can leak out and cause the "free wheel' as you say

or the fluid can over time thicken slightly (usually from wear of the plates) and cause "excessive" lock up and bind - like Subaru centre diffs

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ah how do the plates wear when they are only touching the viscous fluid ? is the viscous that harsh ? the viscous units i have seen in r200s would never leak .it would have to some how get through around 10mm of steel we spilt one open on the lathe

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 WRXONP said:

ah how do the plates wear when they are only touching the viscous fluid ? is the viscous that harsh ? the viscous units i have seen in r200s would never leak .it would have to some how get through around 10mm of steel we spilt one open on the lathe

Simple,. Don't change the oil for way past its due time. Then all the microscopic debris can slowly either jam bits from moving or loosen up the clearances. Over time even in totally sealed units the oil wears out. As does anything mechanical,regardless of speed,loading,lubrication.

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 WRXONP said:

how does not changing the gear box oil effect the sealed viscous unit ? ? sorry for the questions just find it very interesting

They wear out? As with all things mechanical. Further too that ,,Not changing the gearbox oil on a regular basis causes higher operating temperatures to occur,therefore more stress on the sealed units oil/components.

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also if the Viscous unit is run over hot (like running different size tires/worn/unworn ) the fluid in the unit cooks itself trying to compensate and turns into a solid mass,thus making it seem like the centre diff has no slippage(which essentially it has)....

We had this happen to one of our AWD hiace Vans,had it out on lease, the lessee thought putting a new set of tires on the back to "help" was a good idea.

After about 500km centre diff seized,the guy kept driving it until it destroyed the front drive shaft and front diff,NEW centre diff from Toyota $8k,second hand transfer case $2k,new drive shaft $800,rebuild front diff $600 and as it damaged the crown and pinion it still has a whine to this day,

so that was an expensive lesson BUT now the boss listens to me about replacing tires in a set :) so WIN really

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 DRFVDR said:

also if the Viscous unit is run over hot (like running different size tires/worn/unworn ) the fluid in the unit cooks itself trying to compensate and turns into a solid mass,thus making it seem like the centre diff has no slippage(which essentially it has)....

We had this happen to one of our AWD hiace Vans,had it out on lease, the lessee thought putting a new set of tires on the back to "help" was a good idea.

After about 500km centre diff seized,the guy kept driving it until it destroyed the front drive shaft and front diff,NEW centre diff from Toyota $8k,second hand transfer case $2k,new drive shaft $800,rebuild front diff $600 and as it damaged the crown and pinion it still has a whine to this day,

so that was an expensive lesson BUT now the boss listens to me about replacing tires in a set :) so WIN really

OH yeah!!Ha,Ha,Ha :D :D... could have bought a reasonable car with that money. Always change all 4 on a 4 by 4 thats for sure. Will always be cheaper in the long run.

Safer and nicer to drive too!

Top explanation i must say... Must have been smelling of hot gear oil too ???... Way way before it blew!!

Some peeps just have to learn the hard way I guess. ::)

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You may have been able to buy a car with that coin BUT your not even close to getting a Toyota Hiace KZH116g AWD 3 litre turbo, 10 seat minibus Certified as a PSV for that coin....

Actually becoming very sort after as the later models 2005+ are having issues being certified with 12 seats and TOWBAR, so the older ones are becoming more valuable.

I just spent close on 10k on a 2000 model,rebuilt engine,transmission,transfer,turbo,injection pump,front and rear diffs,all new brakes including new front rotors,new front CV joints and drive flanges and New shocks all round....

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Subaru's have a nice habbit of setting the rear diff on fire when incorrect tyres fitted (over20mm F to R difference) after a nice long hill

viscous locks up solid and wheels dont slip enough, rear diff over heats

seen a few now burnt out from the back

also seen heaps with burnt diff bushes and the car didnt catch fire ! LUCKY

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early "fist" type centre diff are lots more durable than later type

I have been swapping the newer type out for the older type (needs complete transfer case change) when they fail

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the symptoms are whenever im about to park up or turn a corner really slow it starts shuddering!. but when the car is cold it seems to work perfectly fine??

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