Release/thrust bearing differences??

[marc]

Put motor back in my car today and now the clutch wont fully disengage! When the car is running you cant get it in gear. Turn it off goes in gear mint and you can start it but feel its still tryna drive!

The thing is I couldnt remember which realease bearing came off the clutch kit that i put back in the car (bout 5kms old PBR one).

Have tryed the obvious stuff like bled the clutch at the master and the fire wall with new fluid. I cant see it being the slave or the master as car was driving fine befor the engine was removed. Im going to try adjust the peddle clutch master rod under dash tomoro but just thoiught id ask if any ones seen any differences in pull clutch release bearings???????? Like just the length of the sleeve that has the circlip groove in it??? I havent to my knowledge!?

Just an idea worth asking incase adjusting master rod doesnt help or its guna be box off time but would hopfuly not do that lol, just put the motor back in : lol

[funkytown]

Try adjusting the rod on the clutch pedal man. ive never seen any different release bearings.

just minor pressure plate variations

[rex-leggy]

after researching clutch kits ive found that the thrust bearing have all the same part number.so from what i know there all the same.

is the fork in correctly? does it still feel like the pedals working the clutch cover ?

[funkytown]

The fork has been 'snapped in' to the pressure plate right?

[rex-leggy]

yea the bearing clips into the clutch cover and the fork just slots in and is held by the clutch pin . sounds like either the bearing not attached to the cover , forks not located correct or clutch pins missing.

but im sure he knows about these things

[Guest]

+1 on the above by rexleggy and funky

Also try bleeding the system

And also which way is the "pitching bolt" installed

the nut MUST go on the turbo side, or the clutch fork will foul on the bolt and cause release issues

[funkytown]

Whats a pitching bolt rick?

oh thats the stay onto the firewall yes?

[marc]

Hey guys thanks for your input. The pin and fork are in correctly and the release bearing is "clipped" into the P Plate. I know this because yes It feels like the clutch is there from the peddle feel (semi light but def clutch feeling there) I bled system already and no go. Ah bolt suggestion is in the correct way .

I used a big creasent on the top fo the clutch fork to manually opperate the leaver. when the clutch peddle is fully in if you pull on the creasent you can get about another 13mm travel and that allows you to get into gear (another person in car lol) and not easy to do manual version of hydrolic force lol. So therefor clutch and P Plate+ fork and pin must all be good really. Just yeah requireing more travel for some reason?!!?

Will see what the rods got left for adjustment tomoro as I had to leave where the car is being stored at 630pm .

Other then the rod being my problem any other ideas?? nah ae lol theres nothing left of a clutch system lol ??

[marc]

 funkytown said:

Whats a pitching bolt rick?

oh thats the stay onto the firewall yes?

Yep and has like a downpipe looking 14mm headed bolt that goes thru it but pokes out quite far on the end that the nut is on.. So best to put that on the turbo side

[Guest]

 funkytown said:

Whats a pitching bolt rick?

oh thats the stay onto the firewall yes?

Sorry, should have said "pitching stop" bolt - and yes thats the top mount fromt he fire to the top of the gearbox

Its the gearbox end that I an referring to- the fork can "jam" on this bolt of the long thread part hangs out on the fork sid eof the mount

[funkytown]

My pedal required adjustment when clutch change. remember clutch plate.might be different thickness now and pressure plate higher clamp force so net result is not disengaging far enough.

id bet your clutch is slow to pick up on the pedal.. i.e right near end of its travel

[rex-leggy]

hmm issue with slave cylinder possibly ? i had a Nissan one crap out on me when the pin fell out.

if its bled / and worked before removal it should be working

how frustrating!

was the clutch a factory replacement?

[marc]

 funkytown said:

My pedal required adjustment when clutch change. remember clutch plate.might be different thickness now and pressure plate higher clamp force so net result is not disengaging far enough.

id bet your clutch is slow to pick up on the pedal.. i.e right near end of its travel

Yeah what I thought as its not the clutch kit that was last in th car (come with the replacment V7 Sti shortblock from a mates crashed v5 Sti) one u got bits off funky.

Ill try it tomoro and post my outcome hopfuly = ;D not lol.

I hope the rod has enough ajustment in it lol. Yeah with car started in gear (otherwise cant get into gear) the car starts to move when you release the clutch like 5mm off the ground. Sounds like rod to me too ae. damn lack of time , fingers crossed

[marc]

 rex-leggy said:

hmm issue with slave cylinder possibly ? i had a Nissan one crap out on me when the pin fell out.

if its bled / and worked before removal it should be working

how frustrating!

was the clutch a factory replacement?

yep fustrating and being rushed for time having to leave is bout right . Yep std PBR 230mm replacement STI clutch from BNT.

Hopfully crack it tomoro with some peddle rod adjustment .

Thasks for all you input once again guys and will let you know the outcome tomoro