converting to electronic ignition

[Joker]

no promises but I should have invoice still here somewhere

Stock Code 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA

Description 35 Series 1/8th 3/2 valve, flying lds 12vdc

Invoice Date 27/09/07 cost of part : $70.15+GST

Flying leads refers to no plugs

Photo:

hmm bit grubby in behind strut tower!

[nzkaosnz]

megasquirt FTW!

Just run the spark part of it. Then later - convert to efi

[Joker]

hah my mech sells these and is even then not recommending that yet...

[nzkaosnz]

really? Its almost what its been designed for Add crank angle sensor (often can re-use points, lock down advance), has single coil driver on it, just use dizzy to distribute spark, you set advance curve.

Or remove dizzy completely, and run coil on plug/wasted spark.

[Joker]

suspect its out of budget at the moment - I looked at the $250 ignition systems on TM and he want to do it for less than that my kind of mechanic!

[log1call]

Ha, don't think I'd trust that HEI unit! It has a fixed spark duration.... of point-nine of a second, you aren't going to get too many revs out of that thing!

[Joker]

we will see but how the hell did you know that?

and dont forget its an avenger - 6500 redline? 8 if I am lucky...

[Guest lan_killa]

what motor does it have?

OHC or OHV, old pommy motors arent particuarly good revvers unless modified (ie 998cc A Series as seen in Minis factory posted redline 5250rpm, valve bounce at 5500rpm... 1275cc A Series, posted redline 5500rpm, valve bounce 5700rpm(Note: A Series indicates 4 Cylinder OHV (Pushrod) non-crossflow motor))

[DRFVDR]

i have an "A" series 998 in my '56 morris minor and it valve bounces very easy.

I wonder what the redline of me EA81 will be

am watching wot joker does as an electronic ignition ma find its way into the brumby....

[Guest lan_killa]

AFAIK the EA motors got around 30 different dizzys, some points, some electronic... which makes is a right PITA trying to get the correct bits at times, but you maybe able to find an electronic one that wil bolt in

The EA71 I had in the leone had a posted redline of 5000ish from memory, but would rev to 7000ish before valve bounce, just getting there was difficult at torque peaked at 2800rpm and HP peaked at 4800rpm... EA81 has the same power peaks btw

[DRFVDR]

it has been "worked" supposedly and at the moment it has no dizzy

[Guest lan_killa]

ok... but who on earth would work an EA donk? well in the last 10 years atleast... I guess a more aggressive cam would make a big change to it though as they seem to be pretty tame motors

[DRFVDR]

they are still the preferred engine for homebuilt plane builders

mine has been apart that is all i know but supposedly higher compression and different cams

[Joker]

 log1call said:

Ha, don't think I'd trust that HEI unit! It has a fixed spark duration.... of point-nine of a second, you aren't going to get too many revs out of that thing!

was this re: the coil driver or the HEI or both?

[log1call]

It was written in the advertising blurb a few pages back Joker. It won't be right because at that rate, it would only run a single cylinder at about thirty revs per minute before there was backfiring out the inlet manifold... That is, if it was possible for an ignition coil to have a spark any longer than the time it takes for the magnetic field to collapse in the coil.

The point being really though, the guys that made it either don't know what they are talking about, or they are bull****ters. Either way, I'd doubt any of their claims and look for a reputable brand.

I think I saw you asking about the best way of getting around your problem somewhere else? The advise was to overhaul an old distributor, they were lucas and common as. With good bushes, points and condenser it will do all the revs you need.

[Joker]

yea was on Trademe message board...

also considering Air/fuel for the Legacy but want to see how this goes 1st as I dont have much faith in these kits for some reson (limited success from other users on here - turbo timer/boost controls etc)

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5385&

[log1call]

Get an old one off a wreck. As long as the vacuum diaphram is good you will only need to fit bronze bushes, which are about six bucks each max, tighten up the springs if where they fit onto the weights or anchor points are worn, and then you adjust the diaphrams advance with the built in arrangement if nessecary to fine tune it for the revs/power band etc.

[Joker]

yea - trying to get away from mechanical - you can say I told ya so when it fails I'm the kind of guy who has to test these things just to see - wet paint etc...

[log1call]

You lot a a bunch of tutus(play-abouts) aren't you?

I'm a mechanic and I reckon Subaru do a pretty good job of designing their cars. Every single in the car is a compromise, a very fine compromise which they have spent years perfecting. Change one thing and you have to make another compromise elsewhere, often to the detriment of usability, reliability, durability.

I haven't found jaycars stuff too good either to tell the truth.

[log1call]

Yeah well with the dissy, you are still going to need one to distribute the spark anyway, and one with good bushes at that. Easy to fit a transistorised ignition still using the points, or modify the baseplate and fit a hall or optical transducer if needed later.

[Joker]

yup lock the weights and use point for "input"

[log1call]

That air/fuel thing... You do know that because subarus have long manifolds they use the change rate of the throttle position sensor to be factored in to the the fuel/timing maps to prevent flat-spots etc?

I bet that box buggers that up.

[log1call]

"yup lock the weights and use point for "input""... and you know what vacuum advance is for right? Bet that box doesn't compensate for that.

[Joker]

yea it does - uses map sensor input as well/or disconnect vac advance

[log1call]

Ah well, it will keep you busy I guess. We all like to tutu.