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johnny5

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i guess i will personally never know as too scared to experiment moving closer and to remove bend lol 8)

but yea something to do with turbelence from turbo and heat etc... issues with afm..

anyway, i just realised that the orange v3/4 afm are bigger than the v7+ insert types..

meaning (in theory) they can read more airflow ..

insert ones max at abt 300g/s (from memory) ... which limits us to 24x kw max..

i get 4.70volts on hard runs (thats the current afm limit i have running - approx 290ish g/s)

pretty much almost maxed at 235kw for now

im thinkng (someone correct me if wrong) by lowering afr from 10.8 to 11.8 (knock checks in place) i should get bit more output without increased air flow (marginal if some)

currently ruinning zero knock tune so dunno how far lean it will allow before random knocks...

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just randomly not altogether related but so people know... the insert style genuine part number 22794AA010 is a nissan/subaru replacement

i work in parts also have firsthand experience. my genuine one shat out and aftermarket replacement came in a genuine nissan box maybe it will last longer than 5 months this time lol.

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never work for us man.we used a genuine subaru one on a 25det car wouldnt idel for longer than 5 secounds before cutting out.

replace with the nissan one and it was sweet.

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what car do u have bro?

PS. taken the pic for u - will mail u - whats ur email?

insert type is different to hotwire (orange/green etc) so the tune on them is different as far as airflow vs volts goes...

all insert type are pretty universal just the housing tube makes a difference in the scaling of volts..

edit - evowrx beat me to the punch lol

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 DUSWLO said:

lol so can u chuck a orange afm from a subaru straight on a nissan can u?no

theyr completly diffrent as you would no if u had tried it ::)

So u tried ??? Fail

If you knew anything about AFM you would know they all have different resolution !!!

Ie the scale in which air flow vs voltage out put is different - you can put any AFM on any car but for it to run properly it needs ye ecu tuned so the load vs rpm table is correct because the load is the AFM voltage

They all work the same - 5v in from ecu - max voltage out is 5v obviously

The reason it wouldn't idle is because the scale would be way off !!!

And Pappu why are u scared to tune off 5v - you still have wide band plus map sensor to go off !!! We tuned my rb30 ( no map and only after market wide band) and it was pegging 5v at 6 psi !!! It still tuned perfectly fine and was a small green rb20 AFM hence y it max so soon

Ps Pappu what do u mean insert is different ? It's still hot wire working off a 5v scale

edit * looked it up and seems people call the v7 insert type mafs "hot plate" instead of hot wire - same principle - works the same -

theres only 3 common different types of AFMs which work differently - thats hot wire - karman vortex and variable vane

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Dunno man just a new can of whoop-ass if I muck it lol

Hence Wana master afm tuning as that's the most common and then move to Maf-less

I suppose it's just a mental state really

Yea Maf-less uses Maf for air temp compensation

Was Ur one a blow thru setup?

The difference between insert type ans older is that insert is more able to be scLed rather easily for various housing sizes

Anyway u have not updated how the Evo is doin man

Be good for u to write some comparisons of Ur own based on Ur v3 vs evo

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lol my ver 3 had every bolt on under the sun - my mitsi is stock as so no comparison untill i get to work on the engine

and nah my rb30 wasnt blow through - it was draw through and hit 5v at 5-6 psi (steve murch 25g) - pretty sure the suby tuning is a little different to a nissan ecu - as on nissan you tune via load vs rpm on a table - with additional functions such as acceleration enrichment (speed sensor)

i have ran a blow through setup on my old rb20det - ran stock tune with afm right by the turbo - then ran it blow through on stock tune - made no difference except the car idled allot stronger (just prooves there was leaks) and didnt have the whole blow off valve back fire issue thats all - then tuned it with blow through

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yea bro the insert afm have air flow and temp sensor built in

flow is corrected for temp as well so perhaps the blow thru temps cause exxssive temp differences and compensation

personally never logged that stuff

just read on the US forums

they have some hacks for the ecu to allow blow thru but meh time is bettr spent on other mods

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 evowrx said:

i thought it was too much fuel not enough air as its after the computer has metered the air it makes a big air leak. its on gsr not wrx btw

will try tightening bov its a racepro blaster

Yep tightenin it will help keel adjusting tight till the issue gets solved

Pretty much

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