Oil Cooler Setup

[MercuryFree]

Hey all,

Looking at getting an oil cooler setup for my sti as the oil gets a bit toasty on the track. Have done some research but would like to get some opinions/experience from those of you who have installed/are running one.

From my research, -10 fittings / hose seems to be the optimal size for maintaining pressure without restriction, as apparently -8 is too small and creates a restriction and you lose oil pressure.

"Taller" coolers with more rows are more efficient flow-wise than wider coolers with less rows. Increased cross section and less frictional loss.

Mounting with the entry / exit ports on the cooler at the top seems to be the preferred approach, as having the cooler full helps to speed oil pressure generation on engine start up. Means you have to undo it to drain it when you do an oil change, but benefits outweigh this slight inconvenience.

Fittings with internal O-rings are 'safer' than 'regular' ones with tapering, correct?

Seems to be a bit of debate as to whether it's worth it or not running a thermostatic sandwich plate. I intend to run the factory modine heat exchanger as well which helps to warm the oil up almost as well as a thermostat from what I've read. What are your guys' experiences with thermostatic / non-thermostatic?

Mounting wise, most americans seem to mount theirs in front of the radiator and/or intercooler. Due to the state of our dodgy roads, I would rather not run the risk of a stone/boulder/drunk teenager/possum putting itself through my oil system, is there sufficient space / mounting ability in the wheelwell of a gbd sti to chuck one in there?

Looking at the kits out there (and previous conversation with Sl8r & funkytown) it's hard to tell the quality of the kits you can buy. I feel I would be better off buying a cooler and sandwich plate seperately, and then having some custom lines made (and then I can ensure the lines aren't excessively long). For those who have done this approach, what brands / items have you purchased, and what kind of lines are you running / where from / cost if possible? The americans seem to rave about "mocal" thermostatic sandwhich plates, which would run me circa $115nzd + shipping from USA

I know greg has a remote mount filter, what is the benefit (if any, aside from convenience) of doing this at the same time?

On a cosmetic note () I know that powdercoating them isn't so good for cooling (unless you get the $$$ magic heat transfer powdercoat), can the cooler be de and then re-anodised, and if so has anyone done this and how much did it cost?

./spam

Discussion: go!

[pl0x]

I know nt a foz's old type r had a non thermo one after the rebuild, but wasn't get warm enough on the road so took it off in the end

also he got sent about 3 before he found one he (read: his tuner) was happy with, kept sending back because inner coatings being flakey

[funkytown]

oh crap - sorry i forgot to reply rob. Your at R & T this weekend - I'm sure during the weekend i can explain how we run both Lukes and mine

i just cbf typing out an epic reply.

[MercuryFree]

 funkytown said:

oh crap - sorry i forgot to reply rob. Your at R & T this weekend - I'm sure during the weekend i can explain how we run both Lukes and mine

i just cbf typing out an epic reply.

Not at R&T unfortunately :sadpanda:. Although if you're still picking up the exhaust from me tonight, you can give a condensed version? . Will be home from ~7 fyi

[funkytown]

ya - cool will swing by - was hoping to show you IRL how we run it on our cars.

[MercuryFree]

 funkytown said:

ya - cool will swing by - was hoping to show you IRL how we run it on our cars.

*May* make it up on Sunday for a look-see, but not competing this weekend unfortunately

[Stoffa]

Ive got a process west one and -8 lines, didnt notice any pressure issues on my old cooler using the same lines. next oil change ill plumb my new cooler in and let you know if theres a pressure drop

[MercuryFree]

 Stoffa said:

Ive got a process west one and -8 lines, didnt notice any pressure issues on my old cooler using the same lines. next oil change ill plumb my new cooler in and let you know if theres a pressure drop

Guy on Nasioc was saying that because there are parts of the engine that are larger than -8, -8 produces a restriction in pressure as not enough flow can be pumpled through the -8 lines. Apparently -12 is "ideal" but the difference in pressure between -12 and -10 is 7% whereas it's a comparatively massive difference between -10 and -8.

This may only apply to EJ257's though, knowing nasioc.

 

-8 lines and small cores create restrictions that lower pressure, larger lines create less of a pressure drop, that's how physics works. There are people who have measured noticeable pressure drops with -8 lines that disappear with -10 lines, the measurements are on this forum. I did a large core with -10 lines, my pressure didn't drop one bit.

A lot of people run -8 lines. IIRC, the people who did before/after measurements saw around a 10 psi drop with -8, versus maybe a 1 psi drop with -10. The higher your oil flow (single or dual AVCS, large bearing clearances, oil squirters, etc), the larger the pressure drop will be when using restrictive lines. Just make sure you make your pressure measurements after all of your lines, and as long as you have at least RPM/100 psi by redline (at least 50 psi at 5k, 60 psi at 6k, 90 psi at 9k, etc), you should be alright.

[sultan]

i have an oil cooler on my hybrid 2.5 even though it will never see the track, seeing as they naturally run warmer than normal motors. i have a permacool inline rather than sandwich plate based thermostat so i can also run a remote mounted oil filter and gauge senders. it allows 10% flow when closed, to keep pressure in the cooler and prevent air bubbles. i also read all that crap about -8 so went with -10

[Tony]

How hot is your oil actually getting on the track Rob? I would have thought with your car being relatively standard (power wise), running a larger capacity sump, and only doing 3 lap sprint type events, there wouldnt be a need for an oil cooler just yet.

What oil do you use?

[MercuryFree]

 Tony said:

How hot is your oil actually getting on the track Rob? I would have thought with your car being relatively standard (power wise), running a larger capacity sump, and only doing 3 lap sprint type events, there wouldnt be a need for an oil cooler just yet.

What oil do you use?

It's getting a tad over 110 after 2 laps and staying up there; Luke and Jon indicated that this was quite high? Running edge 5w30 at the moment which is admittedly too thin and contributing to it I imagine, changing to Elf 10w40 this weekend hopefully

Temperature measured via sensor in the sandwich plate

[scottspeed]

The rally cars are using dash 8 lines (c-spec coolers), and the factory c spec kit is a nice setup and tidy.

Definately dont go mounting it in the wheel arch, less chance having an issue when fitted in front of the radiator.

On a road car definately spend the money and go to a thermostatic controlled oil cooler or you will do the engine more damage than good running to cool/thick oil. Mocal do a nice item, or the factory one is also controlled.

Oil temps on a modified road car with go down and also engine temp will drop if not using the std heat exchanger.

On anything performance get rid of the roadcar heat exchanger, just give yourself an xtra 5 min to warm the car up in.

If you go to a large dash 10 or 12 line, considered the volume/weight that you are now asking the std pump to move

An engine will normally run 20deg C hotter oil temps than water, so maybe think if you really need a cooler set up.

Some more useless information for you is that oil temps actually do need to be hot enough to help evapourate off fuel residue and contaminates. If your on an ethanol fuel a higher temp will actually be an advantage and will stop your engine "making oil" and breaking down the oil properties from fuel residue.

[petrolheadjman]

-10 seems a bit excessive, I wouldn't worry about the flow difference between the two much at all.

And front of radiator will be fine on your setup since it'll sit so far back from the front of the bumper anyway