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Situation For The Subaru Smart Minded


Ninja8)

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Hey all... Cars experiencing a miss at 5500-6000rpm.

Basic run down of the car: V7 ShortBlock, V3 sti heads, split fuel rail (factory reg).

Now the vehicle WILL NOT miss on actuator pressure. but anything from 10-18psi it will miss.

Parts ive swapped:

-AFM

-Plugs (gapped to 0.7-0.8-

-Igniter

-Coil pack

-Crank/Cam angle sensor

-Cam wheel and crank sprocket

- Used a wideband and the car is NOT running lean

Now i am currently lost for anything else to do. No CEL however it DID show a CEL when it first started missing on the way to hamilton but battery got disconnected and i forgot to check for codes before i removed battery. Till now it has not shown another CEL!

What do you pros think?

Will be doing a compression test tomorrow after work

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I'd be going and trying plug gaps.

Most cars with this combo with the older coil packs that i tune seem to not have overly great spark and as a general rule I'll always start at .025" plug gap. Also over rich can have a similar effect. Make sure AFR isnt any richer than about 11.8:1

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.6 u guys reckon??!! Sweet well i will regap them tonight and go for a fang and see what it does. And Matt..always run nothing but 98 so it definitely isnt the fuel.

 scottspeed said:

Also over rich can have a similar effect. Make sure AFR isnt any richer than about 11.8:1

Will have to borrow mates wideband again to recheck that AFR is around 11.8...however i will regap the plugs and see how i go. Could do it now but im running out of lunchtime :P

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.6 spark gap seemed to solve the problem during the drive home. However it may still return so will update again after a drive to work tomorrow. Touch wood it goes fine. :-\

So for now thanks guys for letting me know to go smaller in gap size even though i thought it was .7 - .8 by manufacturers specs

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sorry to hijack the thread but when I put new ngk iridium's in my legacy I didn't gap them at all nor have I ever gaped a spark plug in my life with any of the cars I own every thing always seems to go fine, is it really worth gaping them will you even notice the difference?

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whats the intake hose like? (airbox to turbo under manifold) its not frayed/warn by the turbo underneath.. (common as)

also check knock sensor for condition, could be cracked and borked etc, + maybe consider the fuel pump and/or fuel filter if never been done/changed/replaced etc (fuel filter +/- $30 from BNT)

when reseting the ECU a battery disconnect is not the proper way for doing this, you have to use the plugs under the dash.. as follows:

- with engine fully warmed up:

- turn off the car n plug in green to green & black to black

- turn Key On Engine Off (KOEO) all sorts will start clicking and fans will turn on etc as it self tests components

- press accelerator pedal full down for 3 secs then back up to half way for 3 more

- start car, dont drive under 11KPH (no boosting) and IIRC not over 40kph for 3-5mins

- engine check light will come flashing all clear or will present a code if the prob is still present

- once done pull over, turn car off, unplug plugs

then drive normally (incl boosting through rev ranges etc) and the ECU will now relearn all settings including signals from new sensors, this proper ECU reset sets the ECU to factory which means old corrupt signals it learnt from faulty sensors are forgotten and it learns everything fresh

this is how i have always done it with great success, must be done whenever changing any sensors i.e. o2 sensor

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 AshtonC said:

sorry to hijack the thread but when I put new ngk iridium's in my legacy I didn't gap them at all nor have I ever gaped a spark plug in my life with any of the cars I own every thing always seems to go fine, is it really worth gaping them will you even notice the difference?

I got told never to gap iridiums as the diode is easily damaged. either way if your car is running well theres no need to touch them.

I run .8 and have no dramas

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 Ninja 8)']

.6 spark gap seemed to solve the problem during the drive home. However it may still return so will update again after a drive to work tomorrow. Touch wood it goes fine. :-\

So for now thanks guys for letting me know to go smaller in gap size even though i thought it was .7 - .8 by manufacturers specs

Well after removing and gapping the plugs to 0.6 and cleaning them, the car ran fine on 1bar for about 10 runs i did and the miss returned again.

whats the intake hose like? (airbox to turbo under manifold) its not frayed/warn by the turbo underneath.. (common as)

also check knock sensor for condition, could be cracked and borked etc, + maybe consider the fuel pump and/or fuel filter if never been done/changed/replaced etc (fuel filter +/- $30 from BNT)

when reseting the ECU a battery disconnect is not the proper way for doing this, you have to use the plugs under the dash.. as follows:

- with engine fully warmed up:

- turn off the car n plug in green to green & black to black

- turn Key On Engine Off (KOEO) all sorts will start clicking and fans will turn on etc as it self tests components

- press accelerator pedal full down for 3 secs then back up to half way for 3 more

- start car, dont drive under 11KPH (no boosting) and IIRC not over 40kph for 3-5mins

- engine check light will come flashing all clear or will present a code if the prob is still present

- once done pull over, turn car off, unplug plugs

then drive normally (incl boosting through rev ranges etc) and the ECU will now relearn all settings including signals from new sensors, this proper ECU reset sets the ECU to factory which means old corrupt signals it learnt from faulty sensors are forgotten and it learns everything fresh

this is how i have always done it with great success, must be done whenever changing any sensors i.e. o2 sensor

Brand new silicone intake to turbo no leaks whats so ever, fuel filter and pump was done when i did the engine. However me and a mate were thinking of replacing my knock and 02 as its basically the last electrical component and then injectors (when i find some for a nice price). However i will try resetting the ECU for the hell of it ay. I would try anything at the moment :o

Will keep updating

[quote name='AshtonC said:

sorry to hijack the thread but when I put new ngk iridium's in my legacy I didn't gap them at all nor have I ever gaped a spark plug in my life with any of the cars I own every thing always seems to go fine, is it really worth gaping them will you even notice the difference?

/quote]

I got told never to gap iridiums as the diode is easily damaged. either way if your car is running well theres no need to touch them.

I run .8 and have no dramas

and Stoffa... yeah i was running .7-.8 when the first got the car going and she was purring for a good while until this started and man has it been a pain in the A HOLE!!!

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