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Ran a bigend bearing need a replacement motor Hamilton


turborunner

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Anybody know a good place in Hamilton that rebuilds Subaru turbo motors to go in my Subaru 96 wrx sti v2 wagon.

I have ran a bigend before and had mechanical breakdown insurance got winger to put a brand new shortblock, and now 30,000kms, 4 and a half years later it has done another bigend but i don\'t have mechanical insurance now so have to pay for it and winger wants too much(can buy a new car for what they want) so just want a rebuilt longblock sti exchange basis fitted with warranty.

or rebuild my current motor that has noisy lifters so would need some work done on the heads.

any suggestions on what i should do as i have only got around $3000 total to spend and would also like anything that can be fitted for extra preventative measures so that it doesn\'t run another bearing again

I service it every six months which i only do between 5,000 to 7,000kms with castrol edge 5w30 and genuine filter every time as that what castrol recommends and the Subaru workshop manual states

the current engine mods

removed intake resonator with straight pipe(have not done snorkelectomy yet)

Big exhaust from i think its turbo back still have factory up pipe

just doing cheap mods that don\'t require certification

pretty factory otherwise

thanks for your positive comments

Turborunner

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Replace it with another longblock

That be the cheapest and quickest

But come down to how good ur replacement is I suppose

Can source cheap Wrx ones or u on the upper end of the scale towards a v7sti short block ....

Options above are If u don\'t Wana spend the $/time rebuilding ur current block in a hurry that is

Also goes to what budget u have and how quick u Wana get I back on road as that will decide what path u take

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 funkytown said:

Preventative measures.... that few a kms on a new block might suggest your treatment of it has not been break..

Wound the boost up?

Beat it when its cold?

Run crappy fuel in it?

Weird chipped ecu?

Hi,

havnt wound the boost up (dont have a boost tap or any other controller installed just the factory ecu, the car came with the bigger exhaust and lowered from japan

Only ever boosted hard when its warmed up never driven hard or over 2,000rpm when cold and also have never redlined it only been to 6,000 anything more your wasting your time as it does\'nt make any more power past that just my opinion

Only run the best bp98 have never put anything less since the last rebuild

never chipped the ecu still factory as far as i know im the first nz owner dont know what happened over japan

winger did tests and couldnt come up with a reason why it ran the bigend.

I just want to know if there is anything else that can reduce the risk of running another

i did overheat that didnt make the temp guage read hot but could hear bubbling water in the radiator but fixed that pretty fast as it was a partial blockage in the heater core but that was like a year before the bearings went maybe that might have shorten the life. i don\'t know

i\'ve used those engine flushes when changing oil could that be the problem

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 gf8wagon said:

I would figure out why your engine packed up after 30 000ks first before buying a new block

tried sent it to winger when i heard the problem and they ran test without stripping engine down. but could not tell me why it failed they have put on the reciept saying it was low on engine oil by 100mls even tho the dipstick has the oil about 5mm higher than the max line

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Detonation usual cause of failure assuming correct oiling. Knock sensor issue? My favourite suspect along with lean fuelling to the associated piston due to being last on the fuel rail.. Assumed No3? (drivers side rear?)

A better computer than the standard along with split rail fuelling could/should/will prolong engine life when re tuned correctly too. Esp BE failure wise. ;) ;)

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 titian said:

Detonation usual cause of failure assuming correct oiling. Knock sensor issue? My favourite suspect along with lean fuelling to the associated piston due to being last on the fuel rail.. Assumed No3? (drivers side rear?)

A better computer than the standard along with split rail fuelling could/should/will prolong engine life when re tuned correctly too. Esp BE failure wise. ;) ;)

yeah i asked if they tested the fuel pump to make sure it was reading correct presures and they said it reading good but only tested at idle didnt test at high revs as might have totally finished the job

are there any cons with split rail fuelling?

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