No radiator fans/boost with check engine light at 5thou

[acemurf]

blew a bottom end on a 1996 gtb ej20r. Replaced with v3/4 shortblock. Once done boost never kicked in and check engine light came on. Took it to local Subaru pl so they could read the code for me and came back as e66, twin turbo system so they said. They reset codes and I got boost on the way home but noticed steam was coming out of bonnet. Pulled over and antifreeze was leaking onto exhaust, idiot that I am I didn\'t hose clips on pipe. Done that and boost is gone again with check engine light at 5thouish revs. Also noticed radiator ans aren\'t going and their relays and fuses are fine.. would another ecu reset cure this??? I\'ve read 2 diferent ways, ones with black and green connectors and another with negative terminal and pumping the brakes. Ideads???

[acemurf]

tried the disconnect negative and apply braked to drain whats let of batterys but no such luck on ecu reset. done the green and black connector way with success, got steady flashing chek engine in second intervals after a drive around the block. disconnected black and green and wammo we can get ryt upto 6thou + revs. The fans were going wen green and black connectors but now they are discionnect they don\'t go again. one should b constant so ive read and the other coming on at hi temps. Maybe my constant is stuffed but that doesn\'t explain the 2nd as temp was definatly up enough. Then again if they were bothe going with green and black ecu trips connected... Would a air block in coolant system cause this? what is the best way to flush it? I cant hear anything in cabin on startup, aka gurgling

[gf8wagon]

Might wana try introduce yourself first before you start asking here for help

[Kiwi_Fozze]

ok, try breaking down your questions into questions as opposed to a stream of unpunctuated thoughts.

green and black flashblock connectors is the best way to reset the ecu. if it\'s flashing constantly, ie, not pulsing a code, then the ecu thinks everything is fine.

a coolant sensor could be up the creek, but normally they go the other way, fans on all the time.

if you connected the green connectors and the fans work, then it\'s likely it\'s your thermostat reading weird.

however, an air lock in the system could cause things to be funky funky.

take off radiator cap (cold obviously) jack up front of car as high as you can. start and run the car up to operating temp, monitoring water levels, keep the overflow tank full too.

[lachlan]

you have multiple issues

1 the coolant system needs sorting

2 you have messed up something with the twin turbo setup eg the 66

if it has no boost and the light comes on at 5 k it meant something is stopping the primary turbo from spooling

either the ecv for the secondary is open ,this is spring loaded closed tho so not likely

or the butterfly that isolates the 2nd turbo from the intercooler is open , this is spring loaded open and the ecu pulls it closed with vacuum from the tank

[acemurf]

Cheers.

Ecu reset and no more check engine light.

Cooling system bled of air blocks.

Fans run once every 3 minutes for about 30 seconds. I guess that\'s all is required. Or is there meant to be one running constantly? Maybe the temp sensor is stuffed.

Doesn\'t seem to be any noticeable boost. Will install gauge and see what\'s happening

[Kiwi_Fozze]

if one fan is running constantly, points to something buggered...

[Marky]

The fans are not supposed to run all the time, they cycle on only when needed then shut off. The other does the same for air con.

As for the no boost and check engine lights that\'s a whole separate problem. Don\'t worry about it until you actually see what boost it is or isn\'t running

[Joker]

 gf8wagon said:

Might wana try introduce yourself first before you start asking here for help

intro\'s are over rated

we know he has a 96GTB ej20r fubar

[acemurf]

hahah cheers joker and yea its definitely fubar, guted