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Best supporting mods for 2000-2002 GTB?


Legacyy

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What are the best supporting mods for the Legacy GTB (2000-02). I really like the car and would like to know the best supporting mods for it, car is bone stock atm. Would really help if people could tell me how much I should expect to pay for what mods.

Definitely want a FMIC and different intake though, I see them FM online for 500 incl piping for the TT Legacy, is there a better price?

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Simple things: FMIC, exhaust, reflash is possible (around $1k) if yours is a REV - D (It will say on the build tag BH5X - the X needs to say D).

Those kits are the cheapest (and only) bolt on ones available and not much point doing much more as you\'ll still reach the limits of the factory fuel and ECU with just those mods anyway

The intake is fine - if you want then get a silicon snorkel thing from M&H for like $60 and it will look pretty (you\'ll need it for FMIC anyway). There are super small gains to be had from fiddling with the exhaust changeover valve but other than that, you\'ve got enough there to grenade the motor as it is. Most of the mods are about stopping it from dieing as opposed to making it go fasterer.

Most see 180kW@wheels range "ish" with the above - depends on how happy your dyno is and how much you want to risk the motor with boosty boosty

Logical thing - convert it to single turbo from the outset and be done with it, or spend a little bit on optimising what\'s there but dont go overboard

Dont ask me though

edit to that - I was going to do a write up of what works & doesn\'t, but I have a total of 0 supporting evidence so didn\'t bother haha

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 Marky said:

Simple things: FMIC, exhaust, reflash is possible (around $1k) if yours is a REV - D (It will say on the build tag BH5X - the X needs to say D).

Those kits are the cheapest (and only) bolt on ones available and not much point doing much more as you\'ll still reach the limits of the factory fuel and ECU with just those mods anyway

The intake is fine - if you want then get a silicon snorkel thing from M&H for like $60 and it will look pretty (you\'ll need it for FMIC anyway). There are super small gains to be had from fiddling with the exhaust changeover valve but other than that, you\'ve got enough there to grenade the motor as it is. Most of the mods are about stopping it from dieing as opposed to making it go fasterer.

Most see 180kW@wheels range "ish" with the above - depends on how happy your dyno is and how much you want to risk the motor with boosty boosty

Logical thing - convert it to single turbo from the outset and be done with it, or spend a little bit on optimising what\'s there but dont go overboard

Dont ask me though

edit to that - I was going to do a write up of what works & doesn\'t, but I have a total of 0 supporting evidence so didn\'t bother haha

Also what did you need to do to get the wrx intercooler to work? got any pics?

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The intercooler just needs new hoses from turbo to intercooler, a little bit of work bending & welding to make brackets for it, and ideally a clutch slave cylinder from a V7 wrx as your B4 one will hit the sti cooler (juuuust)

Was worth it I\'d say - ideally just go for FMIC (having tried both) but it did seem to improve things a bit. Its an easy enough saturday afternoon job and they are a cheap upgrade, and if nothing else it does look good haha. It\'s not perfect - the cooler is bigger than the scoop - but its an improvement and I noticed consistently lower intake temps with it compared to stock.

Biggest value for $ gains is a new back muffler & whipping the cats out, and changing the stock intercooler hoses for larger silicone ones - a 1.75 90 degree and 45 degree have enough room to work with and for all of $60 for them ish, everyone on here has reported an instant seat of the pants improvement in power & response.

Doing all the above keep tabs on the boost - it may start to go north a bit which after a point is obviously bad news

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I\'d be cautious with pulling the cats out, have a friend who works in the offices of the NZTA and he says the legislation requring all cars fitted with cats factory to be tested at every WOF and at random roadside tests will be through my mid next year, It\'s also worth checking how your car is currently running, it may seem fine but i have found a few that were under or over fuelling on one cylinder, got injectors cleaned and flow tested/matched and a new AFM, O2 sensor and AFM and they ran better with more pickup and less chance of random suicide.

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 JoKer said:

nope but they die after 10-15 or so years

They wear out and have to work harder to try to attempt to hold regulator pressure, A new pump, filter, plugs, good quality oil, new oil filter, Air filter, knock sensor and O2 sensor (possibly AFM too) will change the way the car feels and improve reliability.

Also check coolant and would be worthwhile doing a flush with new cap and genuine thermostat.

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 jost']

[quote name='JoKer said:

nope but they die after 10-15 or so years

/quote]

They wear out and have to work harder to try to attempt to hold regulator pressure, A new pump, filter, plugs, good quality oil, new oil filter, Air filter, knock sensor and O2 sensor (possibly AFM too) will change the way the car feels and improve reliability.

Also check coolant and would be worthwhile doing a flush with new cap and genuine thermostat.

I would change the Temp sensor then.. causes some problems which people try changing the AFM and o2 first only to find out the Temp sensor is the problem.

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 nickmcgill said:

Where is said temp sensor located ?

I thought mine was built into the AFM.

Also any recommendations on fuel pumps ? Mines done 280k heh.

Not IAT guessing he means ECT and is normally in cross pipe between alt and p/s pump on the front side well ones Ive seen so far anyway.

Walbro is cheaper than factory aftermarket replacement unless you buy a chinese POS off TM.

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