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The *best* Subaru Ace Database.


Doris
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So I\'ve decided to start this as an online logbook of compatible crossover part numbers and other technical specs for the obscure Ace, partly for personal records, but mainly to make life easy for other/future Ace modders/dedicated owners.

The information listed here covers the KG-XX chassis Subaru kei cars sold under the following names: Ace, Fiori, M60/M70/M80, Sherpa, Rex, Viki, Mini Jumbo.

my Ace is a 1990 KG5, 4 speed manual with 4 cylinder carburetted 758cc #EN08 engine. you can follow it on facebook @ www.facebook.com/AceTomoNoKai

*mods feel free to move this to wherever you see fit, updates will likely be sporadic and far between. As long as it shows up on google when someone searches Subaru ace, I\'ll be happy.

so you\'ve got yourself a sweet lil Ace, and you wanna make it more fun to drive? Welcome!

This is nowhere near to being an encyclopedia of Ace secrets, it is very much work in progress, so if you know some handy hints that aren\'t listed here, please do contribute!

Foreword: to better understand my mindset, you should keep in mind that everything here is all based on personal experience with my 1990 Ace that mum made me buy about a year ago for $800 because "it\'ll save you lots of money on your commute to work" she wasn\'t wrong either, my personal best full tank averaged a skint 4.1L/100km on 98RON. But that\'s not why I love it. I love it because I pedalled it through a Gymkhana season to achieve 1st in open FWD class, and second on points across all classes at the end of season. I\'ve embarrassed many Nissan\'s ;)

I\'ve also got this personality clash thing, which kicks in when someone tells me that \'it\' just can\'t be done, or that \'it\' can only be done a certain way and will cost a fortune.

Hearing these kinds of responses only makes me more determined to make \'it\' work, my way. Which typically aims for low cost "outside the box" performance upgrades with an air towards drifting and improving the overall drivng experience in various ways.

Enough about me, here\'s the stuff you\'re really interested in.

Contents in order of posting:

1. Brakes (upgrade these *after* you upgrade the tyres)

2. Steering

Interior

Drivetrain

Chassis

Body

apologies about the tendancy to ramble. you\'ll just have to deal with it :P

BRAKE SYSTEM

  • Front pads (direct fit) #DB1160-E. I went with european REMSA brand and have no complaints. haven\'t tested them on a circuit yet though
  • Rear Shoes (some modification required) #GS8583YO. TRW brand. these were intended for slightly larger drums than we recieved on nz new models, so you\'ll need to grind about 3-4mm from the sections that seat against the adjustment bar and the wheel cylinder respectively. the slight difference in radius hasnt proven to be an issue after 4 months of daily driving, and if anything, I could do with a lot less rear bias (had some hairy moments in regards to late/hard braking into touge corners where the rear likes to lock up)
  • Wheel Cylinders (oversize bore) #BWD139. Silverline. these are native to the Justy, and half the cost + ten times the availability nationwide as compared to the Ace ones (which are such a small bore that they\'re likely to grenade themselves should you ever introduce a hydro handbrake..) NOTE: these cylinders will increase your pedal travel, giving a spongy feel initially. this is because they are a 3/4" bore, the same as the Ace master cylinders\' bore. the solution is a larger master cylinder. I havent come across the suitable master yet, its not a high priority for me currently.
  • HandBrake Adjustment: underneath car, located near the rear muffler, in the direct middle of the car, with steel linkages running forward to the cockpit. I\'d recommend brakekleen and wire brushing the threads before you try to adjust the nuts, otherwise you\'ll likely snap the linkages. penetrating lubricant wouldnt hurt either. I set mine in such a way that your missus would have trouble getting the brake onto the first click. in operation, it locks the rear consistently, with consumate ease as is usually only found with hydraulic systems.

and thats the braking setup in a nutshell.

I should note that it\'s a good idea to replace rear wheel bearings when you do the shoes/cylinders. they consist of two sealed bearings per drum, pressed in. I\'m not sure what i did with the part numbers for those, but I used Narchi ones sourced from Auckland Bearing co, $27 for all four at trade. and piss easy to install them, provided you\'ve got a kitchen oven and a Freezer. dont use a hydraulic press, because the bearings sit fractionally proud, and you\'ll likely end up pinching the bearing.

STEERING SETUP.

>I\'m pretty chuffed with my setup, I did spend several weeks of brainstorming and measuring things to achieve the end result, and I must give credit to Kevin @ ADL Glenfield, who was very helpful throughout the process. I\'ve achieved ~40 Degrees from dead straight to full lock, and theres still lots of potential for more angle, but the C.V joints will need to be modified for that.

    [*]Ball Joint/ Tie Rod End: #SE-6631, 7313-20020. Three Five Automobile Parts brand (Genuine JDM!!)

    Native to the Subaru Justy, these are a direct fit when combined with the Tie Rod I\'ve selected. you may need to purchase backing/locking nuts separately (M12x1.25)

    [*]Tie Rod/Rack End:(modification required) #SR-6100, 53521-SF1-003. Unknown brand (blank white boxes with only the part number)

    These are native to the B-series Honda Prelude and incorporate a unique inverted/reversed rack-side joint, which allows for increased rack travel. the thread on the outer end needs to be extended along the rod, all the way up to where the hexagonal section begins, its an M12x1.25 thread at both ends. you\'ll also need to shorten the rod a bit, I cant remember exactly how much. you can work out how much by using a vernier caliper to measure the depth of the new Tie Rod End, and then applying that measurement to the end of the tie rod. you want to be able to wind the ball joint almost all the way to the end of the newly threaded section.

    [*]Rack Spacer/ Lock Washer:(custom machined) these sit inbetween the steering rack and the Tie rod. No part numbers here, just measurements. I.D 12mm x O.D 16mm x W 5.1mm

    I milled my pair from a solid steel rod, and then carbon-coated them for longevity.

    Always use a few drops of some type of Thread-Locker on the inner rack-end threads, and you can bin the big washers that came with your Tie rods to gain a few extra degrees, just make sure you do regular spanner-checks. I used some nifty universal fit rack boots, they\'re cheap and easy to source :) you may find that you now have tyre scrubbing at full lock, but thats easy to counter: Roll your gaurds, bolt-on rollers are best. Wheel Adapters/ Bolt-on spacers (these are a modified item which i\'ll share specs of in the Drivetrain chapter) And the obvious one, ditch your splash gaurds!

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 ADIKT said:

Look forward to more details.

wtf are you doing at 6 in the morning! haha

ahh, I run the 4pm-2am shift, and occassionally I drink too many coffee\'s!

not uncommon for me to fall asleep listening to birds.

(also, finishing at 2am in the industrial district works out really well for motorsport practice hehehe)

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 Doris']

[quote name='ADIKT said:

Look forward to more details.

wtf are you doing at 6 in the morning! haha

/quote]

ahh, I run the 4pm-2am shift, and occassionally I drink too many coffee\'s!

not uncommon for me to fall asleep listening to birds.

(also, finishing at 2am in the industrial district works out really well for motorsport practice hehehe)

aaah I see
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