Zerosports Sequential Boost Controller Issue

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

Would be pretty unlucky if that was the case. Don't know how you wired it up and if its easy or not but its probably worth unwiring it and seeing if its still goes fine with it removed.

Does it through a code/engine light when it goes into limp other than 65?

just taken it for another drive. this time i got up to 7000rpm but secondary turbo did not seem to kick in at all. and now the boost cuts on primary at like 4 psi. very frustrating. will look at the wiring again now

[steve118]

no idea what the problem is. all the wiring seems to be correct? even with controller off i get the same error 62 and secondary still doesnt work and boost cuts at 10psi. coming to the conclusion that its a faulty unit? maybe?

[Rosssub]

Put the car into test mode (green and black plugs), turn ignition on and see if your ECV is opening/closing.

[Andy_Mac]

^^this.

And since you're awhile away from getting another its definately worth pulling that one out and making sure it still runs in twin with it removed.

And yea i'll take mine out and you can have that whenever.

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

Put the car into test mode (green and black plugs), turn ignition on and see if your ECV is opening/closing.

just under the dash? tips on which ones to spot? quite a few under there...

[Andy_Mac]

Never did it on the third gen but the 4th's have them under the glove box. On the centre console side. Quite small connectors both green. Guess older cars are different

[Andy_Mac]

From a '93 so might be the same

[steve118]

i found two green and two black. not sure if its just me being dumb but i couldnt connect the two greens together? connected one green and one black and got codes 62 & 65

[Rosssub]

Straight above the clutch pedal, pics in here:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes

[Rosssub]

Blacks together is read mode.

Greens together and blacks together is test mode.

[steve118]

one black and one green i got 62 & 65

two greens i got 62

two green and two black i got 33, 51, 62

[Rosssub]

Green to green. Black to black. Then turn ignition on.

Radiator fans should go full, all solenoids start pulsing, all secondary change over items open/close, BBOD starts breathing like Darth Vader.

[Andy_Mac]

Where you had both together was then car running or just on accessory? 33-speed sensor

51-neutral position

http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=28362

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

Where you had both together was then car running or just on accessory? 33-speed sensor

51-neutral position

http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=28362

started off with just keys in ON position, then i checked with engine on. no difference.

i just had another play just now and i noticed the secondary was working this time with controller off, but i still cant go past 10psi on either primary or secondary turbos

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

Green to green. Black to black. Then turn ignition on.

Radiator fans should go full, all solenoids start pulsing, all secondary change over items open/close, BBOD starts breathing like Darth Vader.

did that, everything was making noises. and quite a noticeable ticking noise coming from around the intercooler area?

[Andy_Mac]

Long shot but are you sure its definately working and not just the primary slowing down in switchover and then coming back around higher up in the revs?. Not sure if it can do this without going into limp mode though.

So that noise near the tmic would be the intake valve for the secondary but the exhaust one might still not be ok. Don't suppose you ever come down to tauranga?

[Rosssub]

 Rosssub said:

Put the car into test mode (green and black plugs), turn ignition on and see if your ECV is opening/closing.

Is the ECV moving in test mode?

[steve118]

 Andy_Mac said:

Long shot but are you sure its definately working and not just the primary slowing down in switchover and then coming back around higher up in the revs?. Not sure if it can do this without going into limp mode though.

So that noise near the tmic would be the intake valve for the secondary but the exhaust one might still not be ok. Don't suppose you ever come down to tauranga?

nah im sure it was secondary, the primary got to like 9 then around 4250 rpm secondary kicked in and i could feel it. and it was a lot harder than just primary.

any idea how long the drive is down to tga from auckland?

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

Is the ECV moving in test mode?

how can i tell? where would i look?

[Andy_Mac]

Two n a bit hours each way depending on where in aux you are

[Rosssub]

 steve118 said:

how can i tell? where would i look?

Drivers side wastegate thingy is the ECV:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40911-Inside-the-BBOD/page2

The actuator rod should be moving in and out, while in test mode:

Edited August 12, 2014 by Rosssub

[steve118]

 Rosssub said:

Drivers side wastegate thingy is the ECV:

http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40911-Inside-the-BBOD/page2

The actuator rod should be moving in and out, while in test mode:

so if i go back and plug green connectors together i should hear that thing clicking or moving?

[steve118]

just tried it again with bonnet open. ticking noise i could hear is coming from front left guard. couldnt really tell if the ECV was moving or doing anything at all as the fans were so loud. but i drove it once again and secondary turbo comes on with controller off and doesnt come on with controller on

[Andy_Mac]

Should be able to see the shaft go in/out. Maybe need a small mirror.

Not sure on the internal wiring of the controller and whether it bypasses its own circuits when turned off or what but if all is well with it off then you would definately think its the controller. What is the secondary crossover point set to when on?

[steve118]

set to 4000 crossover 3300 return point. the primary seems to follow this ok