Turbo replacement options for GT3082R

[nismovzr2003]

Hey guys I'm currently running 2.1L stroker motor in my 98 type r coupe, CDB, 2.5L rear thrust crank, v3/4 sti heads with Kelford 268/264 cams with adjustable camgears, decapped yellows, DW300 fuel pump, Tial 44mm wastegate, etc.

I've recently had it tuned however my engine builder/tuner believes the 3082R is not really a good choice for my setup as its producing a lot of heat and that i could look to replace the core and cover with the likes of the gtx3071r or 76r.

Im running external coolers for the power steering and engine, still factory radiator which ill be looking to replace shortly and will look to replace my cheap and nasty bar and plate intercooler with a fin and tube version and this should allow more air flow to the radiator.

I don't really want to modify/change downpipe or up-pipe etc so thought maybe a gtx could be a good option.

it's currently running just on 400hp at roughly 24-25 psi on BP 98. I'm not after huge power figures, just something thats going to be reliable that i can use for the likes of track/club days and possibly superlap type events.

Any thoughts, ideas, or help greatly appreciated. If you've had any success with the newer gtx3071r or 76r any advise would be great.

cheers

[Guest]

Going to a GTX wont matter 2 ****s. Whos tuning it? What housing? Whats the heat you're experiencing EGT/IAT/ECT? Any porting? Can you put up pics of sheets? 3082 isn't unheard of and can render good results. Wouldn't be my first pick but does work.

[nismovzr2003]

Mainly high IAT and ECT. Darryl at EFI and Turbo in Palmerston North done the tuning.

.63 housing. Cant remember exactly what Darryl said, however something to do with the turbo generating to much heat which was being transferred to the IAT.

Dont have a dyno plot ill have to grab one off of Darryl.

Just seemed a little strange is all, my previous engine, ODB 2L v3 sti engine, factory cams and gears saw 430hp atw which was tuned by Carl at E&H Motors, I wouldve thought with the stroker engine and different cams and adjustable cam gears I possibly would have seen similar power but at lower boost?

[Guest]

Tony, sl8r and jon were running seperate turbo coolant circuits iirc but for track purposes doubt temps were high just on dyno.

Have you done a road log? If its struggling the stock rad wont help things. Are the 2 high temps even related as in they rise at the same time? How high do they go? Might be worth welding a bung pre intercooler to check iat and boost vs post.

If cams are all set up correctly then yep thats usually how it goes. If it was my car id probably give dave at dtech a call seems theyre the pinnacle of sub tuning atm never heard a bad story and look at how tonys cars going.

[nismovzr2003]

The issues with temp weren't really an issue until being road tested. Darryl had said something about the combination of inducer an exducer wheels not really being a good match in that the turbo had the ability to flow a lot more than what the engine was capable of using and therefore this was causing the turbo to heat soak the intake charge, this combined with having factory radiator with two oil coolers attached to the front probably isnt helping ECT. Darryl has said replacing radiator with the likes of one of the ones fenix sell, possibly looking at a better intercooler, such as a fin and tube one to help airflow thru the intercooler to the radiator would all hopefully help with IAT and ECT.

[Guest]

I wouldve thought ducting would help more than an intercooler change. Maybe put the coolers down in the wings where most of the race guys have them.

Did he measure egbp? Thats the best way of sizing a turbo. Shouldnt have an issue running that turbo on that engine its not a new combo and like you said it performed with the last build. Id have to wonder if cam timing was leaving a bit on the table.

Not sure if you remember abduls legy with 272s and mse hybrid making 23#wkw at 25psi with high egbp that was attributed to cam timing.

[Guest]

There was another wrx on here with gtx3076@30psi which made 360wkw but hit iat issues will try get in touch with him. Last time i talked to him was when it was having issues. Was going to swap intetcooler out.

I would put a 2 or 3 row alu tanked rad in anyway it makes sense for the money you have in your engine bay and 30-40% better cooling iirc.

Edited January 1, 2015 by evowrx

[nismovzr2003]

On the 268/264 cams i have, off the top of my head kelford recommends around 110° intake and 112° exhaust, however Darryl did change the exhaust to 114° from memory

[nismovzr2003]

 evowrx said:

There was another wrx on here with gtx3076@30psi which made 360wkw but hit iat issues will try get in touch with him. Last time i talked to him was when it was having issues. Was going to swap intetcooler out.

I would put a 2 or 3 row alu tanked rad in anyway it makes sense for the money you have in your engine bay and 30-40% better cooling iirc.

whats a 2 or 3 row alu tanked radiator? Is this the same thing as the performance radiator that fenix sells?

[Guest]

Yep just thicker same as fenix should be fine. Im running a redline branded one with no issues but no turbo water cooling.

[boon]

I had exactly the same issues on the dyno (high ECT and IAT)

I went to a aluminium radiator and a larger turbine housing. I somehow doubt a compressor as big as the 82mm Garrett is getting outside it's efficiency map, I'd say it's more likely you're having VE issues, probably high EGBP as suggested.

[nismovzr2003]

 boon said:

I had exactly the same issues on the dyno (high ECT and IAT)

I went to a aluminium radiator and a larger turbine housing. I somehow doubt a compressor as big as the 82mm Garrett is getting outside it's efficiency map, I'd say it's more likely you're having VE issues, probably high EGBP as suggested.

VE issues?

[boon]

Volumetric efficiency, the ability for the engine to pump gasses in and out.

If the exhaust gas is getting backed up, it's good for spool but that's about it. Makes the engine knocky and limits top end power.

[Guest]

Volumetric efficiency its the actual airflow thro the engine. So say your engine is a 2.0l but it actually only flows 87% of that that would be your ve. It varies thro the rev range.

Lol nappy change before saving.

[nismovzr2003]

Intercooler wise, as previously mentioned, I'm running a 600x300x76mm bar and plate fmic, to allow more air flow to the radiator would i be better off looking at going to a fin and tube design over the bar and plate?

Secondly, increasing core thickness from 76mm to 100mm, whats that going to do cooling wise, lag, etc?

Cheers

[Guest]

I would just go to a better radiator and gets you reliable end tanks too. Then possibly ducting as well to help the air get thro the radiator.

Also what waterpump are you running? Due to impeller design aftermarket flow a lot more than oem.

[nismovzr2003]

 evowrx said:

I would just go to a better radiator and gets you reliable end tanks too. Then possibly ducting as well to help the air get thro the radiator.

Also what waterpump are you running? Due to impeller design aftermarket flow a lot more than oem.

I'm running factory water pump still.

yeah i think i need to install a air diversion plate on top of the radiator too and move the two coolers off of the front of the radiator, they definitely wont be helping with air flow thru the radiator.

[Guest]

The impeller is cast so has a back on it kind of like a real thick compressor wheel where the aftermarket is a pressed impeller same as a modern alternator fan. Should be pics on google but main thing is it flows way more.

Tony has some good pics of ducting on here. Definitely move the coolers.

[Guest]

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1103-subaru-ej-series-engine-tech/

Pic in here.

[nismovzr2003]

I think i must have an aftermarket water pump, mine looks like the one on the right in the photo of that website u sent me not the oem one to the left.

[Guest]

Some genuine ones were like that but its the better of the 2. Well my 2 cents anyway the internet always has its own opinion.

[gotasuby]

The cast oem one is better and doesn't cavitate at high rpm. They flow more to. The pressed steel is only better in its cheaper to produce

[Guest]

Reread up on it jase is correct cast is better that's what it says in link too lol. Aftermarket and genuine are available both ways tho pressed or cast. Apologies I remembered reading up on it a year or so ago looking for something else and thought that was the general gist.

[Guest]

 Tony said:

If anyone is interested, here's the ducting I did from my intercooler to the radiator.

This means that all the air passing through my intercooler HAS to go through the radiator rather than escaping out the top/bottom/sides.

Pretty easy to do as well - just need some thin alloy sheet, tin snips, and a rivet gun

Every little bit helps when it comes to controlling temps on the track...

This is the ducting business.

[scoob]

Damn that looks good!