gtb standard boost

[Marky]

Probably not, if it runs 7psi it's doing exactly what it is supposed to (The wastegate itself)

This sh!t makes my head hurt

A) In test mode can you hear that solenoid clicking

B) Have you messed with the hoses at all and is the restrictor pill thing in place

C) Are you sure they are all going to the correct locations

D) Plan B, and be careful, just unplug hose 23 outright and give it the beans. It *Should* almost free boost. IF this doesn't happen we know the problem lies elsewhere not to do with the boost control circuit, if it DOES then your problem can be solved with a boost tap I guess

[ajb86n]

Rossub boost leak test done no leaks from wat I see cleaned boost solinoid with carby cleaner

marky restrictor pills in place solinoid is clicking when green and black connected how safe is it to disconnect hose 23 for a wee blast should I tie off boost solinoid end?

[Marky]

It's fine, just watch the boost gauge when you do it. It SHOULD shoot sky high, if it does then back off. If it doesn't then back off anyway cause something's wrong. I'm only suggesting it to try and narrow down what the problem is.

Basically if boost goes sky high when free-boosted, then your problem is related to the boost control in some way or the car is deliberately not raising it by itself (because you've confirmed the solenoid itself is working and there are no leaks). Is the hose from the solenoid back to intake (hose 10?) free flowing?

If boost does NOT shoot sky high, then your problem is probably mechanical, as the wastegate *should* be held closed.

Basically if boost does not rise there is a physical issue of some description, if it does fly upwards then the car is deliberately not raising it. You'll know within about 5 seconds either way so there is no need to keep your foot down

[hijacka]

You do realize that it will boost 7psi after a reset until it learns.

And another mistake is you replaced a second afm for a secondhand afm, AFM of that vintage are very prone to damage if you have a pod filter as well. they don't always through codes either same goes for the 02 sensor

[Marky]

 hijacka said:

You do realize that it will boost 7psi after a reset until it learns.

Wut

[megamac]

 Marky said:

Wut

I was under the impression that they were self learning after a reset as well - just so it learns how the motor is running, making sure there's no knock / det etc, and then brings up the boost accordingly for the situation>

apologies for the terrible wording lol

[ajb86n]

Ok so this morning I thorts today's the day to sort this car I started by cleaning all solinoid a 1st b4 taking it for a fang with hose 23 off so cleaned the bbod took it for a fang and bang lost all boost car loss pace rapidly in 4th and 5th no boost on either turbos wat have I done now didn't dis hose 23 as this came up am getting code 66 also any help lads

[megamac]

Code 66 is just telling you its twin turbo'd out

[Rosssub]

Did you remove the BBOD completely to clean it out? Make sure the vac hose from the bottom of the BBOD into the R/H guard is connected. (main supply to vacuum tank).

[Marky]

Generally a sentence that starts with "I took it for a fang" then "bang I lost all boost" doesn't end well

When you were doing said fanging what did the boost gauge say

When it went bang, what sort of bang are we talking

I'm struggling with this one

Code 66 means either an over-or-under boost situation, it's the car just telling you what the boost gauge is already saying

[ajb86n]

Nmate left it all attached bottom hose is connected quick question checked my oil levels and it's way to full could that be a reason

[ajb86n]

Ha marky I've worded that way wrong there was no bang just figure of speech mate so just an update didn't pull solinoid box out just left it in car but cleaned them all and hoses

one thing I just done was checked the oil it was wayyyyyy to full so I've drained oil topped up couple letters to get me home car runs better but still no boost

changed maf sensor couple weeks ago car was going pretty well apart from only boosting 7 on both turbos so I'm lost I can't figure this car out any other info u guys need to help us out let me know and I'll try explain best I can cheers lads

[megamac]

Jesus use some full stops or commas.. Your lack of punctuation confuses me lol

[Rosssub]

For the CEL 66, put it back into test mode again and check that the IACV and ECV are still working properly and moving in and out.

When the CEL 66 is gone. Then try disconnecting hose #23 as Marky said and see if it will free boost. Just be very careful, keep an eye on the boost gauge and be ready to back off quickly.

[Percy]

If one's GTB is doing pretty much the same thing as the OP's car, but it has a manual boost controller on it, what could be causing it?

As hose 23 is now blocked off it cant be doing anything wonky.

It was making 1.2 bar before I changed teh spark plugs, now it wont get above .6ish, it does run a lot smoother though.

Oh, the only other thing I changed was put a 0.8 pill in hose one instead of the ghetto plastic irrigation tap, but that shouldn't have changed anything?

Edited August 29, 2015 by Percy

[Rosssub]

The 0.8mm pill in hose #1 wont have any effect, unless the hose is split or leaking. There's a chance it's gone into limp mode for some reason, but with a MBC it'll probably boost cut/fuel cut when boost gets up. Make sure there's nothing missed or left unplugged after the plug change and try doing an ECU reset.

[Percy]

Right, in test mode the secondary exhaust control valve thingy wasn't moving, so I free'd it by yanking back and forward on the actuator rod, worked mint last night, back to no boost this morning, gaaah!

So I guess I have to pull that thing off and see whats making it sticky, I think its sticking slightly open, which is probably causing the issues.

[Percy]

 Percy said:

Right, in test mode the secondary exhaust control valve thingy wasn't moving, so I free'd it by yanking back and forward on the actuator rod, worked mint last night, back to no boost this morning, gaaah!

So I guess I have to pull that thing off and see whats making it sticky, I think its sticking slightly open, which is probably causing the issues.

Wasn't that, dagnabbit.

[Rosssub]

 Percy said:

Wasn't that, dagnabbit.

Is the ECV moving in test mode now?

[Marky]

Can you hear it change over - like the sound change from dubdubdub to waaaaaaa (ok it's hard to spell sounds in text form)

Mild long shot, have you tried freeboosting it

Does the BOV close solid (it could explain the issue)

Where and how do you have the boost controller plumbed in?

[Percy]

 Rosssub said:

Is the ECV moving in test mode now?

I will check that tomorrow, its raining now, there is beer, and I have enormous amounts of CBF.

What would it be if it isn't moving?

[Rosssub]

Most likely a blocked/sticky solenoid in the BBOD, unless a hose has popped off. Make sure the IACV under the TMIC is moving too.

[Percy]

 Rosssub said:

Most likely a blocked/sticky solenoid in the BBOD, unless a hose has popped off. Make sure the IACV under the TMIC is moving too.

Gah, have clean that that **** out again, yay!

[Percy]

 Marky said:

Can you hear it change over - like the sound change from dubdubdub to waaaaaaa (ok it's hard to spell sounds in text form)

Mild long shot, have you tried freeboosting it

Does the BOV close solid (it could explain the issue)

Where and how do you have the boost controller plumbed in?

Douh, missed this post!

Yes the sound changes, and the secondary is definitely working, as it will hold 0.6-7 all the way up thurr.

No idea, I'll check that right now!

Boost controller has a 'T' in the wastegate line to the bottom port on the controller, as per the in-durrwebs instructions below.

Worked before, so it should work now, I have tried winding it in, will make the boost less if its completely closed, just wont go over 0.7 even wound out past the clicker detent ball.

[Percy]

BOV was filthy, now its not, but i have no way of testing that it will hold pressure.

Might concoct something tomorrow.

I did find the RH head breather pipe was not connected to the head, but looking at the gunk around it it hasn't been for sometime, so I doubt its the issue.

Took it for a longer test drive, in a 100k zone, pulled ok at 0.7 through 2nd, whacked it in 3rd BOV made its chooo noise, boost went back up to 0.7 for a second, then it was like turning the key off, and the CEL came on.

Came up with code 66 (no surprise and not very helpful either!).

Cleared it then had another go, same result just with violent jerking on and off instead of just off!

Fecking thing.