2002 B4 TT Manual - What to check for when buying???

[petercad]

Hey all,

Looking at purchasing a 2001-2002 Manual B4 TT

Is there anything special I should be looking for in regards to known faults?

I know the usual gearbox/clutch/CV/turbo smoke, etc, but do these have any well documented faults that I should be on the look out for?

Cheers.

[Guest]

fire, be carefull of one thats on fire :P

-smurff

[Guest]

check that the factory airbox hasn't been replaced by an oiled pod filter, they like to make the AFM go bad.

as it's a TT, make sure you can feel both turbos boost.

be wary of high mileage, ask about servicing intervals, quality oil...

that's about all i can think of...

where are you located?

[Durty-Sanchez]

Check the rocker cover gaskets for signs of leaking (a steam cleaned engine ruins this..). Look for any visable AFM damage (they're sensitive wee things), error codes too if you get the chance.

[petercad]

I'm in Napier.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

What is so huge about the 100,000km service I keep seeing

I know it's a cambelt/tensioner/water pump, but seeing as I can do the labour myself (and a mechanic mate...) what else do we do to it at that time?

Was looking at this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=262847004

but he has not replied about why the g/box has been replaced at 90 odd k

Other one is this one, but don't really want black:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/B4/auction-262769384.htm

This one is almost perfect, except for the 100k svc:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/Legacy/auction-264127986.htm

[petercad]

Yep, thanks smurf, got that one at the top of my list!

[suubyduuby]

Your right about the 100k service, not such a big deal especially if you've got a good mechanic or a mechanic mate

The full service would typically cover: cambelt, tensioners/idlers, hydraulic tensioner, cam seals + water pump.

(Plus depending on the service schedule, also a oil/filter change)

That's what I had done on mine anyway. 99' GTB Wagon

Plus got the sparks done about 10k afterward at 110km.

Didn't end up getting NGK either, but equivalent Bosch Platinum plugs which appear to be equally awesome!

[Guest boostin]

100k is cambelt etc as mentioned, plus all filters, all fluids and spark plugs.

[suubyduuby]

Quoting a previous post:

Great car!

Got my 1999 Leggy GT about 6 months ago and its a great daily driver and weekend car.

Love the versatility of a wagon - great for snowboards, bikes, moving furniture etc

If you're after a real drivers car, go for a manual. You get another 16kW (206kW total) or so over the 190kW auto version and better resale value as well. Only downside of the manual is that you can sometimes change into what is termed the VOD zone which is a bit like a gap between the two turbos. However once you get used to the car and where to shift, this is really a non issue. Auto versions don't feel the VOD as much (have driven both).

Things to look out for:

- If its done over 100km or just before 100kms, make sure it has had its cambelt/tensioners/idlers done and check to make sure the waterpump isn't leaking. If these haven't been done, try to negotiate with the dealer to have these as part of the sale as a good job afterwards will set you back about $1200 for the whole lot (incl cambelt/waterpump + accessories).

- Rocker cover gasket seals. A common problem is that they tend to leak and need to be replaced. Symptons is oil drips under the car and a really hot smell/smoke coming from either side of the engine due to oil burning up on the exhaust. About a $300-400 job to get done.

- Service history. Make sure its got one! Mine had service stickers from Subaru in Japan, so gave me confidence it was a good 'un. Look for regular oil/filter changes preferably every 5,000kms or at least every 10,000kms.

- Signs that it has been thrashed. Earth leads, big bore exhuast, aftermarket stuff -- sometimes can indicate that the car has had a hard previous life in the hands of some Jap boy racer tearing up and down the streets of Tokyo. However not always - use disgression. Look at the service history, interior condition, general condition of the car and make a call.

- CD Player. If its got a McKintosh sound system, make sure everything is fully functional and that the CD player is working. Can cost $$$ to fix otherwise!

- Gearbox crunching and clutch. Check for crunching/signs of worn syncros. Make sure clutch is in good nick. Pop her in 2nd, handbrake on and slowly release clutch - should stall. If it starts to slip, then it'll be needing a new clutch. Negotiate that with the dealer if necessary,

All the best with finding a good one. Once you do, you'll never look back.

[DPI]

 petercad said:

I'm in Napier.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

What is so huge about the 100,000km service I keep seeing

I know it's a cambelt/tensioner/water pump, but seeing as I can do the labour myself (and a mechanic mate...) what else do we do to it at that time?

Was looking at this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=262847004

but he has not replied about why the g/box has been replaced at 90 odd k

Other one is this one, but don't really want black:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/B4/auction-262769384.htm

This one is almost perfect, except for the 100k svc:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/Legacy/auction-264127986.htm

1st one, sounds dodgy to replace half the drivetrain at such low km's...i'd avoid this one.

2nd one, shame about the black, looks to be very low km's.

3rd one, typical dealer, selling it at 95,000km (one would guess they wanna get rid of it BEFORE they do the 100,000km service); however, at least you can do it and know it was done right, not cheap arse like most dealers would do...

[gazzy2000]

It may be stating the obvious, but check the engine oil (when cold preferably)

i went to look at a 2002 GT-B E-tune manual (its still for sale too http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-263573253.htm)

I told the car salesman that i would be there in the morning to start the car from cold, which is a good thing to do to hear all the engine noises.

Well when i checked the dip stick before i started it, the oil wasnt even registering, i said to the salesman "dude did you even service this?" and he went away and came back with half a litre of oil and says "it just needs a top up", he put it in and it still didnt register on the dip stick!

I told him "it would need alot more than that to get it to the full mark" and he said "the car must be on a slight angle" LOL.

I was totally put off at that stage but i started it anyways and instantly i heard piston slap (of which you WILL hear when the engine is cold - just off idle when you give it a wee rev).

So the piston slap and the lack of oil told me that either (1) it burned oil (2) it leaked oil or (3) it hadnt been serviced well in its life.

In this particluar case i'd go with number 3.

So i think that some car salesmen think because its soo modern and tidy that it must have been well looked after, they over look the obvious things that expose the cars real integrity.

I test drove and listened to alot of 2000 to 2002 E-tune GT-Bs Twin turbs and all the others that had proof of service history had no piston slap when cold.

Also, that year (2000-2002) is renound for the center diff crapping out. Being that the center diff problem only shows itself once its hot, the way to test it is to go for a long 100Km drive (10-20mins) and a couple of boosts under load (up a hill) etc to get it really heated up.

Then find a quiet dead end street and do very sharp turning circles lock to lock with a bit of acceleration to load up the drive train, dont worry you will hear it if its crook, the wheels will bind up and make a hua of a noise!

The center diffs crap out because once they get hot the Diff seal lets the G/box oil in to the diff itself of-which is meant to be a sealed unit.

Hope that helps

[Guest]

if you can check for stored codes

[DPI]

 gazzy2000 said:

It may be stating the obvious, but check the engine oil (when cold preferably)

i went to look at a 2002 GT-B E-tune manual (its still for sale too http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-263573253.htm)

So i think that some car salesmen think because its soo modern and tidy that it must have been well looked after, they over look the obvious things that expose the cars real integrity.

And i think your giving car salesmen too much credit.

They buy the cheapest secondhand vehicles, do nothing to them but put some glossy sh1t on the tyres (which are normally only a few km's off being replaced, or kingstars...), spray silicon over the entire engine bay and give them a quick sqirt of liquid wax...

They then do, or say anything to get it moving off the lot...

ALWAYS assume the salesman is talking sh1t, cause he will be...

...and remeber, the sticker price IS negotiable.

[gazzy2000]

 DPI']

[quote name='gazzy2000 said:

It may be stating the obvious, but check the engine oil (when cold preferably)

i went to look at a 2002 GT-B E-tune manual (its still for sale too url=http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-263573253.htm]http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-263573253.htm[/url])

So i think that some car salesmen think because its soo modern and tidy that it must have been well looked after, they over look the obvious things that expose the cars real integrity.

And i think your giving car salesmen too much credit.

They buy the cheapest secondhand vehicles, do nothing to them but put some glossy sh1t on the tyres (which are normally only a few km's off being replaced, or kingstars...), spray silicon over the entire engine bay and give them a quick sqirt of liquid wax...

They then do, or say anything to get it moving off the lot...

ALWAYS assume the salesman is talking sh1t, cause he will be...

...and remeber, the sticker price IS negotiable.

Yes well, a salesman that dosent even check the oil level has got to be a complete nunce, thats for sure!

He certainly looked like your stereo-typical salesman, cheesy, arrogant and dishonest!

[petercad]

Thanks guys, really appreciated this help

Gazzy, the listing on TM even says it gets a "Full Lubrication Service Included" - must have gotten interrupted part way through refilling with oil....

Yep, car salespeoples can be scum, and fill us full of BS to buy their overpriced cars, and somethimes it's no better than buying pricately

All the stuff to look out for is starting to pot me off!

The centre-diff thing - in both manual and auto or just one?

[suubyduuby]

Dealerships aren't all bad.

Bought my GTB Wagon from a dealers - did my own checks on it, got it AA'checked and its been an awesome car.

Just have to watch out for those key things aye ;D

[gazzy2000]

 petercad said:

Thanks guys, really appreciated this help

Gazzy, the listing on TM even says it gets a "Full Lubrication Service Included" - must have gotten interrupted part way through refilling with oil....

Yep, car salespeoples can be scum, and fill us full of BS to buy their overpriced cars, and somethimes it's no better than buying pricately

All the stuff to look out for is starting to pot me off!

The centre-diff thing - in both manual and auto or just one?

Pretty sure its just manuals that have the Center diff prob and 2002 model are meant to have a "revised" center diff..

Dont be put off man, they are truely very nice cars. Just make sure when you buy one that you get it off a true gentalman and car enthusiast. Obviously the lower the KMs the better.

Like any car they will have their faults, but here you are on a subaru forum asking people what to look for when buying one...... weeelll you are going to cop alot of information and input from people that are truely in the know , possibly much more than your average conrner shop mechanic or your mates dad!

That will put you streets ahead of the rest to help you make the best decission possible.

Embrace it grasshopper, dont rush, do your homework, just make sure it hasnt been raced or modified.

Post pics when you get one and/or find one and run it past a CS member or two!

good luck!

[Swindog]

Just check its not a subaru. If it is, avoid.

Kidding. Just the usual leaks. The new age Legacys are pretty strong. I should have looked at mine better before i bought it. It was a boyracer car in Japan. Has holes for a pillar gauge pod on the drivers a piller and water temp sensors and heaps of sard and apexi gear.

[Hailz]

If you've got the cash or can get the cash I'd go private aye, and then just buy a mechanical warranty through a company like "Drive right" - which are great by the way, all car dealers do is buy cars off some crazy japanese people wack an extra 4g on the price then try to sell it on, I knew a guy who got done for stealing from a company he worked for, he got sacked but then later on got caught breaking in and stealing more crap from the same company, six months later he got sacked from another company for stealing and dishonesty, and now he works as a car salesman in Christchurch, this guy spoke more lies than truth I can tell ya and they're all the same!!!

[petercad]

OK, just got to track a good one down now and we're all in for a Subaru in the garage

The more info I get, the better armed I am when spotting any faults

Many thanks, and let the search begin.............

[DPI]

Some mods are all good, but (and it's just personal preference here) i'd stay away from anything with a monster (or for that matter, any) aftermarket tacho.

Same goes for an external wastegate or aftermarket BOV...

Stickers on it that contain any of these words: Chosen, Klan, DVS etc...

There really is no reason for these except having too many pimples and wanting to attract 15 y/o girls...

[swiftbrad]

 DPI said:

Some mods are all good, but (and it's just personal preference here) i'd stay away from anything with a monster (or for that matter, any) aftermarket tacho.

Same goes for an external wastegate or aftermarket BOV...

Stickers on it that contain any of these words: Chosen, Klan, DVS etc...

There really is no reason for these except having too many pimples and wanting to attract 15 y/o girls...

wheeee! ;D

[EJ20T]

id also aviod the one with the box change, sounds like they may have not put a d rev box back in, which is one of the best items on it (2600 rpm at 100k) also id avoid anything with a pod filter, if your going to change the head unit maybe dont buy a car with a mcintosh sound system, if not look for one with it as they sound good. id say go for a long drive and check for bearing noise on over run. only run 98 in these models. make sure the tt system works properly, check all the heater controls as ive seen that the control units sometimes die on these models