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Dairusire last won the day on February 21

Dairusire had the most liked content!

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974 Look at me, Look at me

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About Dairusire

  • Rank
    CS 2017 Committee / Admin

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    2013: '00 B4 RSK Rev.C (sold 2014 June)
    2014: '99 STi Type RA V5.10 (Twinscroll setup with complete v10 GDB driveline), Still own.
    2018: '01 Legacy GT Rev.D 'E-Tune'
  1. Hahahaha not a lie my friend! I'd definitely say that's what happened to the first one, the second engine? Naaaah but that's a long story. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  2. Oh, that's simple. Different oils are for the different cars I've had [emoji23] And engines! Forgot about that. RA has had 3 engines so far in my ownership lol
  3. It really depends on the car, but regardless, Subaru's are simply crap for fitting a front mount in, period. There is nearly ALWAYS some cutting that has to happen somewhere, and it's soul crushing. However, onto topic about redline is you really get what you pay for. Their Cores and piping kits are the same generic cookie cutter crap you get from china, but sold here in NZ. They're also cheap. It's not to say the cooler won't do it's job, it's just not that great. I had to cut and bead my intercooler piping to make it fit in the engine bay and also had to cut the bumper 'beam' (more like a piece of tin that does nothing if I'm honest) to make the bends fit around to the core. Thats un-doable though as you can just go buy a new bumper beam. My honest opinion though, after getting the kit, is to just buy something that is probably on the expensive side, but you know is quality made. Or Take it somewhere and have it done. Otherwise you're guaranteed to have to mess around and you will need to cut something somewhere and some point. No matter what.
  4. Good to hear you got a spare! They're often quite cheap however. Can pick em up brand new for probably less than $10
  5. See, the big thing is just getting the weight right. Honestly, these days most good brand oils will do the job perfectly. I use Penrite, I have used Catrol Edge, Motul, Valvoline, blah blah blah. Full Synthetic, decently priced stuff will do you well ($60-80 or higher but thats your choice), but once you've put something in the car, just stick to it. However, as the above, Generally Motul is highly rated as far as motorsports go. It does come with a price tag associated with it however.
  6. The answer is yes you can do it easily if you're using a Rev.D ecu and engine. The single turbo conversion thread should help and then you can talk to @Pappu1 and he can remap your ECU to work with the single turbo.
  7. So, heres a bit of information that I'm aware of in regards to injectors. Injector Dynamics command a much heftier price because of the following: All your injectors are matched to very close similar specs. For example, my set of ID1300x2's all flow 1331cc each. Meanwhile a factory set of bosch or potentially other companies may vary by a few cc to 10 or 20. Depends on their quality control and matching. ID use proprietary internals and nozzles for their injectors (at least going off their videos and marketing guff), which they claim is superior. The likes of FIC etc may have different processes but from my understanding their matching and nozzles and internals of the injectors while aren't bad, are more in lines of the factory item they're modified from. So matching might not be as close as what you'd get from ID.
  8. Pretty much what Zeus said. Also, cambelts aren't hugely expensive. Just have it done yourself with a full service and keep a service log if the car doesn't have one already.
  9. What Inked said is the best practice. If you've seen the likes of @RaKid's engine bay, and you want quality work (Not saying the others suggested aren't at all) then BD Motorsport is a place I'd recommend. A close friend of mine who used to work for them, and is now working for Cameron Racing in the states for GT stuff, says their work is top notch and Ben is really good at his stuff.
  10. That we all have!! In other news. Slapped the new battery in because well its been 4 years minimum since the last one. It runs! It was a bit rough to start but once kicked over that was it. Took it for a quick little trip up the road to the petrol station to check the tyre pressures and all is well there. No longer is the RA unable to move under its own power! Finally she's alive Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  11. Today is the day I got to eat some of my own humble pie. I have as such come here to repent for my sins. Turns out I was totally off the mark and am a complete oaf when it comes to wiring. Yep you heard it, got it about as wrong as you can get. Simply put I didn't terminate the positive OR negative well enough and that was all. Had nothing to do with the patch loom I bought. As such, the wideband is working now but the battery is stuffed... Onto the charger it is! Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  12. No such thing as a dumb question! I was hoping user error myself, because user error is far simpler to fix time wise. It is unfortunately/fortunately(???) turned on and all configured correctly as confirmed by Adam at link.
  13. Yeah the loom is at maximum 1.4M accounting for all connections on all sides. 200mm for wiring from Lambda, 1M for the extension loom, and 200MM for the pinout loom into ECU. That's it. It's about as simple as it gets. I'm going to try slicing open the heat-shrinking tonight and fixing this as I want the car running. The voltage drop is my key point of issue, but I'll re-terminate the whole lot if I have to. EDIT: To also add, I grabbed the link wideband/lambda unit, removed the extension loom from the equation, and plugged it directly into the pinout loom, which makes it a 400mm run. It still wouldn't work or detect. Just if you're curious.
  14. No I haven't, but I called them and they've stated that there isn't a resistor in the wiring. In this example, no. I don't know much about other units, but the Link CAN-Lambda specifically requires 12v as specified in it's wiring diagrams.