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thewabbit1 last won the day on October 28 2017

thewabbit1 had the most liked content!

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About thewabbit1

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  • Drives :
    BH5 E-Tune II
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  • Occupation
    GIS Consultant
  1. Do you really want to go for the cheapest parts for something like a cambelt... If it fails, you're gonna have a (not) fun time. Best to get OEM, make sure you do all the idlers, tensioner and the water pump as well
  2. No, not sure really. When i remove the last bold, the lower arm had heaps of free up and down play, 4-5cms. I don't really know how to judge that
  3. Spaced out my control arms for a bit more (i think) castor...
  4. Seeing that those photos are toast, and I wanted to do it myself, here are some photos... Also tried to flip this part, but those suckers were on ttiiiiggght. and they sit at an angle where i can only get a spanner on, not a proper socket with some tube.... I'd recommend taking them off the car, and putting in a vice and then removing.
  5. Also replace the 90d elbows under the TMIC - i noticed a difference with that
  6. I have a ecu def file for my revd - i'll try remember to share the link to it tonight EDIT: here's the link to all the ecu stuff i have. there may well be copies of the above in the 'From CS' folder: 'From FB' contains one def file I think and 'ECU Dump' contains my ECU image, and two def files It's been a while since I looked at them, but give em a go
  7. Be interested to see what effect, if any, this will have on BP 98 prices....
  8. so it is. Brain farted. my bad
  9. As per the title..... i'm I having a brain fart or has it disappeared....?
  10. I saw your car parked down Fort Lane(?) just near Giapo - i defiantly had a good oogle at it - so nice.... (i'm from CHCH)
  11. The high current only passess through the switched side of the relay Edit: whereas if you were just using a switch you'd have that high current in the switch and burn it out.
  12. Hmmm... I think your way is more or less the same as above..... I'm no electronics guy so take what i'm saying with a pinch or two of salt. The way your explaining (seems to me) is that your source to liven the switch for the bar is slightly different, by no means is it incorrect. Your solution (with a switch) would allow you to toggle the light bar when your lights are on (as you said). My implementation would only allow for the light bar to be toggled when highbeams are on (which is what OP asked). All lights in a car will be on relays, t0o risky having a switch carry so much current, plus its easier to replace a broken relay than a whole stalk/switch. The only additional relay to include is the one for the bar, the other one is already in your car I used this to make the diagram:
  13. @Subru I got some vinyl decals from these guys: Have stood up well, no peeling or anything (been on the car for ~2 years)
  14. Confused me a bit, so here's my take on the same scenario. I always find relays stupidly hard to explain So the light bar side of the relay doesn't change (still hooked up to the batt). The trigger of the relay changes. Instead of the switch opening/closing a 'constant' 12v source, the 12v source is actually fed off the high beam. So when high beams are on, you can flip the switch and the relay will turn on. If the high beams are off and the switch is on, there is no voltage/current coming through the trigger, therefore the relay doesn't switch. And don't take the 12v off the lights side of the highbeams relay, take it from the switch side something like this (i think)
  15. Slow, remember stopping distances are much greater. Don't be violent/abrupt when steering/braking, be gentle and predictabe with your movements