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Light bars are a notoriously grey area. Perspectives go from all ranges for police and WOF inspectors... I failed my WOF with the light bar switched via high beam. To pass I just unplugged it. It is on a on/off/on switc either way. On whenever I want, off completely, and on via high beam. Regardless of what your WOF inspector rules, be aware that you might get a fussy cop who doesn't like seeing you using it either... use at your own risk really

@Subru I got some vinyl decals from these guys: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-caliper-sticker-decal-cut-letters-fit-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-rally-front-X2-/201831506109?var=&hash=item74d924181d Have stood up well, no peeling or anything (been on the car for ~2 years)

They'll just be LR90

i never rotated the tyres when i had an sti. just regular wheel alignments. with the move to a fwd golf i also left the tyres alone but you get the fronts wearing faster so i just swap front to rear to even out wear.

@thewabbit1 If you could draw this up for me, I only use 1 relay when I wire up my driving lights on my subaru's. Hopefully I can explain it. So the switched side of the relay remains the same, + batt to relay, relay to Lightbar/driving lights ( make sure it is fused ) the switching side goes like this, from a switched +feed ( i use the cigarette lighter) to your cabin light bar switch, from this to the relay, then from the - side of the relay to the switched negative on the Highbeams. I hope that makes sense ( i dont usually even run a cabin switch,I dont usually see any reason to have the Lightbar/Driving lights switched off which simplifies the wiring even more as i take the switched side for the relay straight from the headlight, one+ and the switched - )

damn the calipers are looking good. when you paint the letters white, i reckon you should leave out the A so it just shows "SUB RU"

Painted calipers gloss black. Gonna paint the "subaru" White so it stands out. Also painted a few of the interior pieces red for lols. Ill get a pic of that installed later on

Confused me a bit, so here's my take on the same scenario. I always find relays stupidly hard to explain So the light bar side of the relay doesn't change (still hooked up to the batt). The trigger of the relay changes. Instead of the switch opening/closing a 'constant' 12v source, the 12v source is actually fed off the high beam. So when high beams are on, you can flip the switch and the relay will turn on. If the high beams are off and the switch is on, there is no voltage/current coming through the trigger, therefore the relay doesn't switch. And don't take the 12v off the lights side of the highbeams relay, take it from the switch side something like this (i think)

We just bought a turbo to hit 500kw so perfect timing.

Large (2048 × 1536) Large (2048 × 1536) opps sorry. fail. Ah. That's better. Had a brain-fade on embedding photos...

i'd forget about rotating, like shuffling the deckchairs on the titanic. although with asymmetrical tyres like the ps4 you can swap from side to side. stick to the stock staggered setup or budget for 9in front wheels too ? 245/40-19 is a funky size ? toyo t1r's are positively stone age tyres, even the re003 is better. pilot sport 4 is the flavour of the moment. the ps4s is substantially more expensive. some cheaper/less expensive tyres to explore - toyo t1 sport, hankook ventus s1 evo, yoko advan v105

@Batbaruman given you have "given up that race car life", shouldn't you be getting bridgestone ecopias?

Sorry for crashing this topic but seems like your matter was resolved, thought I'll grab a few opinions on mine! shopping around for set of 245 40 19 for RWD Vehicle (infiniti g37s). extremely unlikely to see track use, might see the odd spirited driving in summer but nothing significant in winter other than commutes etc. less so now with rising fuel prices might just stay at home and uber eats all day every day. factory setup is 225 45 19 front, 245 40 19 rears but other popular setups i read are 245 40 19 all around (ability to rotate for tyres to last longer with no significant handling impacts, 0.95% speedo diff) or alternatively the "+0" sizing 245 40 19 fronts with 275 35 19 rears. initially wanted to go latter route but found how expensive 275s are and given that won't be able to rotate the tyres, i won't get as much life out of them either. then again my rear wheels are 9", fronts 8.5" so i have some concerns about if rotating is actually viable or not lol. Received a few quotes so just tallying up some of the ones i seen. 245 40 19 4 x Toyo Proxes T1R $1315 fit/balance+alignment. (hyper) 4 x Bridgestone Potenza RE003 $1450 fit/balance+alignment. (tonys) 4 x Michellin Pilot Sport 4 $1700 fit/balance, $100 extra for alignment. (beaurepaires) Tonys offer tyre insurance for about $14 per tyre and beaurepaires have something similar, i'm guessing that is highly worth while? It's one of those journeys that leads me down the whole 'spend a little more now and get something significantly better' rabbit hole and not entirely sure exactly where to stop lol. if money was not as tight it would be a real easy choice to go for the MPS4 or even the 4S. anyone out there can do club deals or anything hit me up