newsuba

Used stock seat bolts. No probs with WOF or scrutineering. Should work on drivers side but in my car space seems a bit tighter and you will have to make allowance for the remote boot opener.

Fuzzy photo. Them's official Subaru mats. ;D

Ditto. Get a strong, flat piece of metal, some good drillbits and DIY

Those concepts are fuglier than the current production STI ! Had a look at the local demo. Rather cramped and too claustrophobic for me. Looks strange from some angles; a bit too squat, like its been squashed. Underneath it's a Golf. Relatively affordable from $50k but mandatory options like 18" wheels will soon push that up. http://www.volkswagen.co.nz/publish/vwasia/new_zealand/en/models//scirocco.html

If you don't know where the plugs are I wouldn't being screwing around with different plugs either. Take the car to a professional. :

Jesus H Christ DO NOT use lens cleaners that contact the laser. One of the easiest ways to totally @#$! it up.

You didn't read the ad ? They allow you to fit wheels to hubs of slightly different PCD without having to use adaptors. TUV approved so not totally bodgy Didn't know these existed. Thanks J !

STi v3 Type R is not the fastest stock STi, GC8 or otherwise. It is more aggressive in feel than later models but not faster. v3 should be fine for occasional trackdays. GD- for serious racing.

Too bad they sounded like crap... compressed to buggery. MD HD is much better but not worth the bother with solid state storage now so easily available. Sounds like Matt's HU was not designed for CDR playback so either; A. Stop playing burnt discs B. Buy a new HU with full CDR compatibilty.

Everyone's BS detectors are broken ! ;D

Ditto above. ;D 2.5L was tuned for driveability (where it failed epically) and to meet noise and pollution regs in markets like USA and Europe.

NZ new (good) 2.5L (bad). I'd also be wary of any seller who can't even list his car properly. 2457cc, Automatic ? Just scrolled to bottom, it's at Wingers.

A good dose of marketing BS there... : While silicon fluid does not absorb water it does allow it to pool at the low points of your hardlines, where it can cause corrossion. It might not eat rubber parts but silicone fluid can seep through micro-fissures not big enough for glycol fluids to escape through. Never needs replacement ? So your boss never changes the fluid in his race car ?

Two 500ml bottles are usually enough. ;D

You mean tyre size ? ;D STi v7 sedan got 17x7.5 wheels with 225/45-17 tyres. Hatches got short-changed with 17x7 wheels, 215/45-17 tyres.

That's unusual... My Goodridges have the yellow tag marked, MEETS FMVSS106.

Stick to a good glycol fluid like Motul RBF600 or ELF ETX115. Don't bother with silicone fluids, they are a waste of time and money. -While they do not absorb water they do not stop water from entering the brake system and can allow water to gather at the lowest points in the lines, promoting corrosion. -Silicone fluids are more compressible than glycol, leading to a spongyfeeling brake pedal. -You can't mix silicone fluids with glycol fluids. -Not compatible with most ABS systems.

Nothing wrong with V1 for NZ, aside from the fact it's probably the #1 nicked detector. It WILL pick up all frequencies used by NZ police (Ka, K). BUT the latest BEL (and maybe its Escort twin) is a better detector in every respect (performance, ergonomics).

Thanks for the reminder. [quote name='STiEVO said: no car drives it self so instantlt add atleast 50 odd kilos to any figure , so at the end of the day does this mean much as fat people drive performance cars aswell.and only having a drivers seat would also help. but if you have friends add 250 plus kilos also b]Kerb weight[/b] removes that variable

According to Brian Long (author of Subaru Impreza) the MY02 Type RA Spec C was 90kg (~200lb) lighter.

Nah... Depending on conditions you only need to claybar, scratch-x once or twice a year. Wax on... wax off... every 2-3months. Even Autogylm benefits from some basic paint prep before applying.

Stock STi kerb weights, from Subaru NZ; v7 1430kg sedan & hatch v8 1440kg v9 1440kg v10 1495kg v11 1505kg Spec C's were 90-120kg lighter depending on model.

Autoglym is available in NZ http://www.autoglym.co.nz/ If you're getting swirly marks after polishing you ain't doing right. For major cleans I use a four-step method with Meguiars products. 1. Wash with a good car detergent 2. Remove surface gunk with a claybar. 3. Attend to scratches with Scratch-X scratch remover. 4. Wax with NXT Techwax 2.0 At each step cleanliness of your cleaning cloths, brushes etc. is paramount to minimising swirling etc.

The standard v9 and v10 wheels were Enkeis, which bore a superficial similarity to the forged BBS wheels. The BBS were optional for v10 STi, possibly v9 too. Enkei BBS

Look up the applied model number. http://www.catherineandken.co.uk/sti/wrx.html