Munkvy

Sam I have a set of Whiteline ones I have never used here if you want to try them out?

I think most of it comes down to how much of a tool you are. The more you ruin the car (ie Stance BS, stupidly low, badly fitted wheels etc), the more you are likely to get them talking to you. So to the OP, are you a tool? Do you want to ruin your car? If so, expect to get attention of the wrong sort. On a related note, my GC8 was matte green up until recently and has a 3" straight pipe, but I never got pulled over as although it aint pretty, it's all one colour, it's not sacked and I don't drive it like a dick very often (the rollcage I think also puts cops off bothering with it).

**** you really were going quite a bit faster than me! Any idea what your top speeds were?

I have been using Nitto NT01 semis this year and one set lasts a whole 6 hour endurance race for us. But then in endurance racing you aren't wanting the softest tyres. I would rate them as slightly better than R888 and definitely better for grip than the Federals, but not massively so (I have however only run the medium compound Federals in 215/45/17). Slicks will have more grip however, so I hope your oil system is upto the job!

The factory plate one would be a bit better? They didn't seem to come in all models however. Failing that, many aftermarket brands available from Japan, talk to Mac from 41. But they won't be overly cheap unfortunately.

Manfeild fulltrack - 2.14 - Flat Nats 2015 - V2 WRX rally car, with stuffed up upipe and no power (timed off GPS laptimer).

Thanks for videoing us, good to see what the flames are like that people kept telling me I was spitting! I had a good time and appreciated how well behaved everyone was on the track, no ego driving makes for a good day!

Yeah it took about 7 extinguishers to put out, not sure that was power steering, could have been turbo oil feed, he wasn't 100% sure.

Have you tried Dunlop 03G's first?

Waiting on turbo to be finished, then installing that, tuning it, finding out what's knocking in the left rear and fixing that, then servicing all fluids and doing a skid. Or if the turbo doesn't turn up in time, I will be in a slow BMW and doing lots to get that ready instead.

I could be very interested. You have PM.

I have one of those killerB setups. Other than the stupid name, the combination of different pickup, baffle plate and the sump itself has meant I haven't had any bearing issues. I am caged, semi's, slow old driver on a stock early Legacy motor.

When I rolled my old rally car I was using NZKW brackets to mount my seats (also NZKW) to the factory mount points and retain the factory adjustable rails. Unfortunately in the impact they twisted and I ended up hurting my back. So I would say if possible, use fabricated (ie stronger) fixed rails, rather than them. Or don't crash! Otherwise they are an easy way of adapting aftermarket seats to factory mounting points. Vivian

Well thanks for the feedback, will do some research!

Interesting, got a friend running the 2 piece DBA rotors on his V9 STi rally car and seems quite happy with them, he is also quite an aggressive user of brakes, but I think it all depends on the application and grip levels too? I imagine with slicks you can brake a lot harder than you can on a tarmac rally.

Interesting, thanks for that. What are replacement rotors worth without the hat? That price looks similar to what I have been quoted for DBA's before?

I am actually looking for them for both 4 pot and Brembo, just to be annoying (gravel and tarmac setups). 4 pot part number appears to be DBA5010BLKS (which includes the hat). DBA5654BLKS-10 for the Brembo ones with hat. Feel free to PM me rather than clogging up this guys thread! Thanks Vivian

Anyone able to get a good price on the DBA 2 piece rotors for Brembos? If so I would be keen to talk...

I rev match on downshift, only started doing it in the last year or so and have found it of significant benefit for reducing wheel locking in a FWD that I race. I do it in my WRX rally car too, but I didn't lock wheels often in that before anyway, so not sure if it makes much of a difference. I am not worried about shock on box, purely stability under brakes. After doing it for a few weeks in the daily driver I got very used to it and now do it instinctively in most cars? At the same time I stopped changing down gears till the gear I needed for the corner and just select the gear I want to exit the corner in. So rev matching is kinda important there as often you are going down 2-3 gears at a time, so increased risk of locking wheels. And Sam, I don't left foot brake, too bloody confusing! I think you need to spend lots of time go karting to get comfortable with that?

NT05 came out in 2009, so I wouldn't say it's a very current tyre either? What are RE003's worth, they sound ok, but from previous experience the bigger brands seem to charge more? I ran some Nankang NS2R's at Manfeild in the weekend, still very much a road tyre, not a proper semi, but for 1k I was pretty happy in 215/45/17 and I surprised an Evo or two still. Life expectancy, well time will tell on that!

You could just buy a rally car for that sort of money Loren. Sure you have 2 wofs a year, but you could get a car with decent diffs etc too and cage done etc. All for 10-12k. Or do you want a daily driver car as well as a race car?

I have yellows in my daily E30 BMW and my GC8 rally car. Good pads and last well for a race pad. They do require a stab or two to get some heat in however. Dust has never really bothered me, so can't comment on that.

To add to this, I think there is also a different culture in NZ - we don't crow like American's, so there are people out there making big power, just you don't hear about it. But you do see it if you go to race tracks or know the tuners, just they aren't out on forums bragging, they are most likely out there busy working to earn the money to make the power. In America it's more important to them to talk about it, and that's not necessarily a bad thing, it helps other people learn from their successes and failures... But for a road car, big power is pointless, you can use it on a highway in America (well maybe not an LA motorway in the daytime!), but on the average NZ road it will soon throw you off if you have big power I would imagine... PS, I agree with Loren and Sam, building a motor to then not get to use it fully seems like a waste to me. But I am a one eyed bastard like them. Now it must be my turn to get the shotgun and go out...

Umm, heard of the Atom? http://www.nzefi.com/new-price-drop-link-g4-atom-ecu/ It's dirt cheap. And unless you need the extra fancy motorsport type stuff or a large array of inputs/outputs, I don't see why it wouldn't do the job?

Yeah that's cool to put me down Joe. Gonna be a lot of trailers needed if you get 50 odd Subaru's though.