Kiwi_Fozze

pfr6g / bkr6eix i've used without fail in both my tuned v7's and no issues with misfire, until recently with my car. but, they were new plugs, so i knew that wasn't the issue. new coils on, misfire on boost gone. have heard coppers should be done with every oil change, so if you follow the manual, you should be doing em about every 5000-7500km. i personally cant be assed resetting my radio settings and disabling the alarm to remove the battery, ripping out my cold air intake and flipping my windscreen washer out of the way that often.

gc8 alloy arms are the same size, yes. bolt em up and go (to get a wheel alignment) poor mans anti lift kit may be worth doing while you are in there (SF/SG Forester control arm bushes) GD alloy arms are significantly wider, but do-able, and you dont need different axles for the front. you do for the rear.

@4G63B8 sedan struts and springs are a bit softer, as mentioned, results in the back sitting lower. 2 options: 1: spacer 2: wagon specific struts

My starting point would be a compression test, leak down and teekay test. Then, gamble on knowing what to expect

New cert requirements basically mean if you aren't running the factory rails then your belt stalk has to be floor mounted, I'd chat to a certifier

Mine doesn't use any oil, but my blowby ruffles your hair if you open the oil cap, and leaves a nasty film on the tmic. I hit 211kw at 400nm, couldn't add any more timing because of knock. Even if it was richened up, still knocked. Oil catch can (or air oil separator) and try again.

@Subru what's your milage? Pull the tmic, check for a film of oil. Blowby will reduce your knock resistance quite a lot.

Downpipe, 3port solenoid and tune be a bloody good way to get some good power gains

Pull the white resonator off the back of the black box. The duct under the bonnet (that massive black scoop thing) feeds pressurised air into the air box, you remove that as well and you may as well run a pod. Keep that high pressure scoop thing. If you do decide to remove it, then yeah block up the hole and duct it down below the spotlight. But better to keep that duct thing there

Some people rip it out and shove a Nexus tablet in to the hole, works well

Looked at it as I took the bike to work... New arrow exhaust on the street triple sounds goooooodd

Should get somewhere between6-8k for it, if current asking prices are anything to go by

So is it the xt or the sti?

Why would a 62mm gauge ever fit into a 60mm pod?

Grimmspeed aos are cheap and do a pretty good job

Yes and no. Was interesting watching my oil temp at the last flatnats, and gives you a good idea on warmup times and when you can give it death. Nice to have, not specifically needed. And +1 for @SAS, @gotasuby is a fantastic tuner, spent a bit of time there and will strongly recommend their work. Gc's all round

No, you wouldn't have a good time with them, because you'd need to find the compliance documentation for your car and the testing, or you'd still have to floor mount the seatbelt stalk. The kyouu rails sold by nzkw are compliant for certs, but don't have a seatbelt stalk attached to em. (Again floor mount) The only way you'd pass a cert with the recaro rails is if the car left the factory in Japan with the optional recaro seats in it.

All aftermarket seats (on non oe rails) have to have a floor mounted seatbelt. You get to drill holes in your transmission tunnel to mount that. Recent update to the cert threshold means that if it's the factory seats, the belt mounted on the rails is fine. If it's an aftermarket rail set, you have to provide a compliance document from the rail manufacturer at the time of cert stating that the rails are crash tested and safe (good luck with that) or floor mount the seat buckle.

Doesn't fit. Rails are different. If you want to try and swap the seat rails over ( think pop rivets and security screws) you could get them to work, but you are removing the seat airbags which the wof and cert guys really won't like

Huck a new 'box in, call it a day

You can option alloy fittings for the Perrin one if you buy direct

Perhaps lifting the car up a touch may be prudent. It's well known that r180 axles don't take too well to being parallel to the ground (aka car dropped on it's arse) and tend to snap when loaded up in such a state.

Up till recently, factory air recirculation system has been fine. New engine will be running a Perrin heated air oil separator because ethanol

You need the lights and the rear brackets, as well as the mounting screws. You need the switch and the relay as well. It's plug and play. Plug in the switch, the lights and the relay, and it just works.

The v7's are pig rich out of the box, untuned mods only make it worse. Lots to be had from a tune, and I'd be looking to replace your front o2 sensor. It may not have failed yet, but it could well be heading that way. I'd hold a spare and take it with you when going for a tune, tuner will be able to tell if it's slow / inaccurate / dying