boostin

Same running gear as a BL/BP, and they're pretty reliable. Haven't had any with issues through work.

Nope. Replaced a damaged arm, but never bushes. They don't move much at all, so failure rates will be quite low. I was thinking the mounting bushes in the back of the diff, but that sounds more like the outrigger supports. Bushes are a mounting point for components but provide cushioning to reduce noise transfer to the cabin.

Refurbished or second-hand? Another common issue is the pressure relief valve chattering.

7 hours seems excessive. Yes the rear diff has to come out, but that's easily done. The hard part is getting the old bushes out and pressing in new ones. I found the quickest way was to get what was left of the rubber centres out with a chisel and hammer, then run a die grinder through the bush casing to split it for easy removal. We then had a threaded rod with various heavy washers and cups to pull the new bush into place. Refit the diff and axles and fill it with oil. 2, maybe 3 hours and some diff oil. As for the arms, you'd pull them off and press the bushes out, and new ones in. Or fit second-hand arms, which is what I'd do. An hour for the pair at most. Don't forget to get an alignment after.

Diff bushes are a pain in the ass. I'd throw second-hand arms at it and avoid the hassle of pressing bushes out and back in. But I've never replaced a trailing arm bush and I've been working for Winger since 2006.

I've got a unit I'm fitting to our BM, but the Aerpro fitting kit has to be the most useless thing ever made. It wants the head unit to be angled up, and because of that part of the dash frame needs trimming. Done that, back to steel, but it's still not enough, the unit just won't fit. I've seen kits that mount flat, looks a touch awkward but it will have to do. I just can't seem to find one to suit. Anyone got a source for a decent kit?

Will need attention before next warrant, ie. don't need to do them now, just keep an eye on them. And vtnz all good aye? Nzta were in yesterday doing our site inspection. While they were there, I had a Swift in for a service that had just got a wof at vtnz. It had a stop lamp out, worn right rear tyre, torn wipers, collapsed front strut tops, and a corroded brake line. They took pics and details and were heading straight there to rip someone a new hole. Don't be stoked with getting a vtnz wof. It possibly doesn't mean S***.

Winger can only see Subaru NZ stock, so that's what they will be quoting. If you ask them to backorder it, and offer a deposit, they shouldn't have any issue with it.

LED retrofit are legal so long as beam patterns are correct, even colour, intensity etc. The main issue with HID retrofits is the heat generated, distorting reflectors, which then causes glare.

I had a search for aftermarket lamps, but everything that came up was left hand drive. Oh well, fixed now. I drove it in the dark for the first time last night, and very happy with the lamps. Will be interesting to see what difference the LEDS make.

Yeah it is. I haven't seen anything in the virm about it. I'll ask on Thursday when nzta are in for our site recheck.

I discovered the following on my own vehicle. Have since found out that others are having the same issue. It only applies to HID lamps, not halogen (H7) lamps. The vehicle had extremely poor output from the headlamps. The lenses were in good condition, so next port of call were the bulbs themselves. 2 very expensive HID bulbs later and very little change, so not bulbs. Ballasts/ignitors then? Unlikely to have both fail in the same way at the same time, but possible I guess. The local auto electrician had a 12v LED conversion kit for less than the price of 1 ballast, so that seemed the way to go. Output still very poor. So it turns out that the coating on the reflector has degraded and is flaking off. Lights need replacement. Choice. Brand new HID are over a grand each, second-hand are like hens teeth, and even then the ones we got were failing with the reflectors starting to flake. My next question, do we really need HID? Order a pair of second-hand halogen lamps. The old hens teeth bite again. Can get a mint right hand lamp, no lefts. Much research and a heap of phone calls later and a set of brand new halogen lamps arrive, for a price similar to second-hand too. As a bonus the plug is the same so they slot straight in. Lamps aligned and WOF issued. What a process! So all my research showed me the myriad of lamps available for these cars. Here's the list.... HID with black inserts and auto height adjustment HID with chrome inserts and auto height adjustment Halogen, black, with auto adjust Halogen, chrome, with auto adjust Halogen, black, manual adjust Halogen, chrome, manual adjust Now that's just for MY09/10. I didn't get into options for MY11 to 15. We ended up with the manual adjust chromes, and I reckon they look pretty sharp. I plan on doing a LED conversion on it early next year and get some real output.

They aren't going to help you much as you need the code list for that specific vehicle. Just get it scanned by a workshop.

Reflashed ECM and centre diff controller?

The power steer reservoir cap must be removed to bleed the system too. The long pin on the underside of the cap blocks the hole that the air needs to escape through.

Sounds like the master cylinder bypassing. Try a fluid flush and bleed first, see if that improves it.

We do them at work, and always avoid wet or humid days, which is often in Auckland!

S*** that's cheap! One of the first ones we looked at was similar ks, and they wanted $14500 for it. I offered $12000 and they turned me down. It's now on for $11500 and has some god awful wheels on it!

Got a trade me link?

Are they what! I had a Santa Fe with CAN issues. It would fault twice a year. Never got to figure that one out, the customer moved out of town.

It's hard to fix something that isn't faulting though.

The last towbar I saw mounted like that was 3/4 of the way tearing itself out. Light panel steel isn't a good mounting spot for a towbar!

Also note the CVT was Subaru's first "auto" to be more fuel efficient than a manual. The torque converter locks up super early, like 10 to 15kph, and after that it's a full mechanical connection from the engine to the wheels. The CVTs are pretty reliable. In 7 years I've had one apart, and I put that down to driver abuse too, not faulty trans. Yes you get the odd one with torque converter staying locked up and stalling the engine when you come to a stop, but I've done just as many tc's on other models too.

My 05 6MT 3.0R is currently sitting on 11km/litre doing the commuter run. We're in the process of swapping the other vehicle for a 10 2.5 CVT BM, which I'm expecting to sit up around 13 or 14km/litre. As for 91, just no. They're still the same engines, just better knock correction programmed in. They're gutless pigs on 91. For the extra $2 a tank, run 95 minimum.

None for me either.