gotasuby

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Everything posted by gotasuby

  1. I had 4 airbags replaced in 1 week a couple. Of months ago. Surprisingly they did good job on 3 but stuffed up the nicest car. It had most aftermarket gear in it and struggled to plug back in stereo and tablet etc properly. I even left my phone number with a note beside it saying any questions at all call me. There excuse was their apprentice didn't have much experience haha
  2. Have you tried silcock transport? He's a rally car driver so good to deal with.
  3. Yes had a but to do with it as local npd which is 5 mins away has it and cheaper than 98. Definitely more knock resistance. Would highly recommend for anyone with a sgt, bp turbo or rev d legacy
  4. I don't usually share too much of my diagrams but I'm feeling generous.
  5. Buy a standard v7 sti engine. Do fuel system, front mount and efr turbo with link. Will produce 300wkw and 500nm easy and should hit fill boost by 3800 ish
  6. A fury would be good as well. Seperate was only if you didn't have lambda in built. Have you tried a seperate boost controller if that's only issue you are having?
  7. You want both ecus to share -crank -cams -tps1 -tps2 -aps1 -aps2 -ect -iat -map -knock -speed (this one's needs to come from expansion plug above throttle peddle) Link only to control -avcs solinoids -e throttle Motor -injectors -coils -boost control Factory ecu can keep looking after -tacho -fans -starter control (link controls mine and is now push button start) -purge solinoid -CEL Would get rid of all o2 sensors and fit a can lambda. Fuel pump can be either but need to remap ecu to get rid of codes and also run fuel pump 100% all the time as defaults to only 33% if it has injector faults. Or get link to control.
  8. Need bigger rear turbo housing I say. Subaru's do not like back pressure
  9. Part number is written right on top of afm. Open bonnet and it right there
  10. We won't have the dyno and be official sponsors this year as was too costly to do but definitely will be there to catch up, chat and have fun
  11. We just bought a turbo to hit 500kw so perfect timing.
  12. You want oil pressure back there as it shows oil pressure problems earlier than front. Oil temp will be ok there. Not quite as got as sump though
  13. Where are you located?
  14. Every tuner from the North Island I have spoken to about gets better gains power wise and less knock on Mobil 98 vs bp98. We only have bp98 down here so cannot compare myself
  15. Common problem.. Most are cracked. Get welded up with strength plate weldedon
  16. Remember about turns are a big issue with fluid dynamics
  17. 1000cc fuel injectors will usually get 300wkw on 45psi base and good fuel pump capacity but that's usually there limit
  18. Highly recommend not using ign cut on factory heads. Try raising the limit. More ign retard and slightly more fuel trim first. Should get you 10-15psi
  19. To get more boost with a link on launch control. Make it retard your timing more and add a little more fuel when active. If you had better valve springs you could have run ign retard /cut mode and I could get you any boost up to 35psi on launch. Its extremely hard on gear though.
  20. Just a valve grind and cams I'm told as we didn't build this one. V3-4 heads so no avcs. Injectors are id1000 and at 75% with a base pressure of 45psi. Yours should spool far earlier as your running avcs and another 0.4l capacity.
  21. Should grt back to doing this as have been busy. This may interest @Niran 2.1l stroker, id1000 98 fuel, EFR7670 20psi as ran out of map sensor. 272 cams. Hks single scroll headers and 0.84 housing. Makes more power and torque than last setup everywhere and that was a TD05-20g and 2l
  22. I wouldn't use antilag at all with stock valve springs. Flat foot shifting is fine on gearbox and engine if it's fuel cut and setup correctly.
  23. Have you considered flat foot shifting. Have you got uprated valve springs?
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