Loren

How about on the passenger side of the transmission tunnel around the handbrake, gearshift area... under the carpet obviously,

yours pics are showing the right side of the steering column... it should be left above the clutch pedal.

Check to the left of the steering column.

Does anyone know what the retail cost at Subaru NZ is for these two gaskets? 44011FE060 44011FE010 edit: nevermind.

It's not true that all synthetics are the same. Just buy the most expensive oil available and cross your fingers that it's good.

tie a knot in the belt and save yourself some money.

I would never have thought that a cambelt could taint someone's appreciation of their car. Finding badly repaired crash damage sure... finding rust, finding that the previous owner never changed to oil, finding a used condom down the back of a seat... but a cambelt that might or might not need changing???

Even if the cambelt has an expiry date... which sounds like BS... it wouldn't apply to the idlers or water pump, so changing the belt would be cheap.

it's a reasonable price and the cambelt will be fine another 60000 km, so move on.

Where is the the 22psi peak? You said in 3rd it just goes to 19psi and holds... which will be fine.

yes, the same. Try partsouq for a cheaper price... might not have that part though.

Put some solid bushes in the gearbox cross member if you want to pretend you have a bog box.

Down pipe will probably be fine... a bit more boost and a bit more noise... nothing drastic.

Can't tell much from this picture... the camera angle is different... wheel lock is different... and possibly different camber, different shock compression, different tyre pressure, different wheel.

Finding the power wires to the rear lights and splicing wires is too complex... better to hookup a 3D accelerometer and light sensitive diode array to a microprocessor (LOM processor) to detect when you are braking, turning and driving in the dark... then to avoid doing any complex wiring, you need bluetooth activated lights on the trailer... all activated from the one simple LOM processor. You might be able to purchased the whole setup from Jina for 50c.

I had the same problem with my up pipe and a twisted turbo setup... there isn't much room down there and if you are using v-bands, getting the exactly correct position can be tricky. Ultimately my problem was caused by the headers warping constantly and changing the location that the up pipe sat in.

NZDRA cages != MSNZ cages... need to figure out which he needs... can NZDRA cages by made road legal? i.e. do they have an equivalent of the MSNZ authority card? Can NZDRA cages be used at MSNZ events?

For some reason none of the usual parts DB websites seem to have twin scroll headers... only single scroll. It's really weird... does anyone have numbers for the all the bits including heat shields?

I can see how that thing can cause a restriction now... I didn't know they where completely enclosed. That would cure the terrible surge problems the older cars had. Looks like it could benefit from a lift pump though

Unless it's too late, I wouldn't bother. Just make sure your fuel pump is good and strong. Should be plenty of room under the manifold if you get rid of the breather system... i.e. put a catch can in at the same time

It sounds like a problem that can be cured in 5 minutes with a hacksaw and a small length of rubber fuel hose.

How does it cause a restriction specifically? I can't fathom it.

If you are doing anything custom... don't expect miracles. Things go wrong. The aftermarket parts you have bolted to your car have NOT undergone the level of testing and R&D that OEM parts have. Your modified car is not going to be as reliable as an OEM car... if you want much higher performance than the OEM car provides, it's going to cost money up front, then more money to work out the initial problems, then more money for maintenance than an OEM car. Unless you know the person actually doing the work, or the person closely supervising them, has done the exact work you are asking, and on the exact same model car... don't just think they know exactly what needs to be done or all the potential pitfalls. If you don't trust that the person or workshop doing the work is capable, then either go in every day and check on the progress, or just don't give them the car in the first place. A company is only as good as the people working in it... a name means nothing. A once great company might have none of the original staff or owners that made the company great... and might actually suck. That should only be a temporary situation, as people will catch on quickly. No matter where you go, no one cares about your car or your budget like you do... why should they? You are responsible for what happens to your car and how much it costs. Get time and cost quotes for everything... if the workshop is unwilling to give a quote, then it's up to you to decide if you trust them to do it in a reasonable amount of time and for a reasonable amount of money... which is often the same thing... labour is always the biggest expense.

Was also going to suggest Rage... a pain that they rotate the flange... but it will cost very little to have it modified. I think they are slightly short too? No stainless option either.

Thanks... great link.