Loren

5w40 or 10w40 with those kms.

This car uses stock equal length headers at 800hp... the only headers that they could find that wouldn't crack. http://www.driven.co.nz/news/lifestyle/alister-mcrae-wins-second-straight-leadfoot-title/

Just a side note about flex fuel... it's a compromise because to get the most out of e85 you would run a much higher static compression ratio... so only a trailered car will be able to get the most out of it IMO.

I only have 800cc injectors and running over 300kw rich as, no problem.. that's with bp98. Definitely will go to e85 at some point, but not power limited at the moment... courage limited.

Reliable? E85 is no good for a road car due to availability and cost. You would need a flex fuel setup so you could still run regular fuel. You will probably need a bigger fuel pump and injectors... plus a sensor to detect the fuel/e85 mixture and an appropriate input into the ecu to allow it to adjust the tune on the fly.

What kind of S***? metal fillings? You can buy them from Subaru... though they are nothing special... just a plug.

Yes, twice He wasn't going to let it go... and it was just two oil filters with a total value of about $40, so wasn't worth standing my ground for too long. I just won't go back there.

Got it serviced. Was a bit annoyed that the mechanic charged me for parts that I supplied to him. His proof that I didn't supply them was that the box that had all the supplied parts in was empty... once the service had been complete.

Apologies... I have never heard of shimming a viscous diff and as above, can't see how it will be effective. It will either just mash the spider gears together or possibly the viscous housing is a little bit flexible and it will put the fluid under a small amount of pressure... but seems like a futile exercise to me :0

I removed the water pump cut the impeller off, gutted the thermostat and replaced pump. Next to fit a temp sensor to the inlet elbow and refit cambelt etc.

A proper LSD would obviously be better though... and you'd need to change your driving style quite a bit for a locked diff I think.

lol, I don't think anyone one is insisting that he weld the diff up I also think you are exaggerating the wear factor by quite a lot. The rear tyres get bugger all wear compared to the front, as 60% of the weight is at the front, 60% of the torque is at the front for a non dccd gearbox, and they do all the turning. The car will be more stable and more predictable in oversteer situations. It will feel more planted and give the driver the confidence to push harder and go faster.

Is that you Doctor Ropata? I bought the WRX a Davies Craig EWP and booked the Legacy in for a 100000 km service.

It would be a definite improvement Alistair McRae won the Leadfoot festival twice with welded center and rear diff

Yeah diffs are expensive... rebuilding them is expensive too.

Shimming only works on plated diffs. Throw it out and get a Cusco plated diff to go in there. Putting a thicker oil in there might help a bit, but the key problem is that these diffs don't lock when torque is applied.

Wow old thread. I know a guy with a new Ford Focus RS which has similar tech... he was driving down the street and came up to a car that was parked, but not very well... and the RS slammed the brakes on so hard the belts caused bruising.

Got my first notice today.

It doesn't sound like you are very committed... just wait until you are ready to spend a decent amount of money on what you really want.

The inlet size is going to hurt... 2 inch vs 4 inch! But also, I can't help thinking that the stock location turbos are designed to spool faster and give a more stock like feel, but with extra power? It would be a bit of a shock for most people... though the yanks have 2.5 litres anyway, so maybe not such an issue.

I thought it was common knowledge that the stock location equivalents were much smaller and therefore not the real deal? Maybe I'm just a clever clogs.

Just make sure it's serviced regularly... warmed up before getting on the boost or revving the S*** out of it... and then drive it like you stole it.. it will be fine.

Clean the inside of the windscreen (rainex anti-fog)... replaced the front wiper blades... removed the rear wiper assembly (bit of weight reduction)... took an angle grinder to the jack holder (to make a bit more space)... packed it with racing wheels/tyres and tools etc ready for sprint tomorrow... updated ECU logging profile... checked oil level, put 0.5 a litre in... bought some more oil... earlier in the week I had the front bumper opened up to allow more air to get through the intercooler and radiator and added shrouding.

Manuals do suck for bumper to bumper, start/stop driving... autos suck a lot more for everything else though.

Do you want reliability or a sh1t tonne more power? They generally don't go hand in hand. There is no cheap or easy way top get an extra 100 kw out of a naturally aspirated engine. The 3.0r has plenty of torque and power (no way it has 260kw at the flywheel though)... just drive it stock for a while and enjoy it.