boon

I've re-used both of my turbo gaskets, up-pipe gasket and exhaust manifold gaskets and I have no leak issues. Doing the headers... if standard ones will bolt up to whatever up-pipe is in there then it's a quick and relatively easy job, hardest part will probably be getting the O2 sensor out without breaking it... If you need to do the up-pipe as well then it's a pretty big job, as mentioned you have to pull the downpipe, turbo, then the up-pipe. So probably a couple of hours and a lot more mess since you would be removing coolant and oil lines from the turbo.

In which case shouldn't you run some funky relay setup so that the turbo timer runs the fans backwards, hence pushing the hot air out of your engine bay, rather than pulling air across the radiator (heating it up) where it will stagnate in all the little corners of your engine bay... hot air rising and all, and the bonnet scoop generally has a big 'ol top mount in the way.

Bear in mind that if you modify a damn thing on the car the warranty is probably goneburgers...

Nah still deciding what I'm going to do in general. Seriously, it's not a nice hose, 99.9% sure it's fake even though it says Samco all up and down it. You can pull the metal fittings out with your fingers.

Eeer, kinda... in lower classes it's car off, in higher classes it's engine optional but you're limited to a certain number of RPM... so you just run 4 300A alternators anyway. A good battery will provide ~800A, Gel batteries usually good for close to 1000A at a burst... and some of the AGM rapid discharge batteries I have kicking around are good for like 1550 CCA or ~3000A discharge. Which is handy when your amps pull 1000A

A 1 farad cap stores less energy than a 9v battery. Just gonna throw that out there. There's a lot of reasons why your lights dim with high power audio... I wrote up a huge thing about why even a battery won't solve your problems (theoretically a cap is better, although relatively useless on a big system if they're less than ~10F) Mostly it comes down to the fact that you've only got about 50A on tap at 14.4v from your alternator, after that you're getting 12.8v or so from your battery. Go crank your sounds with the engine off, I bet you a dollar they won't dim unless you're running a pretty rude amount of power. The reason a gel or AGM battery works a little better is because when they're freshly charged they float at close to 14v... EDIT: Stuff it, let's go into some theory here: 1 Farad means that it can supply 1A at 1A for 1 second C = It/V, or Capacitance = Current x Time divided by voltage So we have 1 Farad and about 14v so with some quick re-arranging 14 = Current x time So you can pull 14A for 1 second before the cap is discharged. At 14v this makes ~196w input, if we factor in a Class A/B amp and its roughly 65% efficiency you get 128w of output for 1 second from your cap. Now this is all wonderful if you're powering your amp with nothing but a cap but the problem is that the cap won't discharge below the overall voltage of the system. So once your alternator can't keep up, let's say you're dropping to 12v. You get a 2v discharge from the cap, throw that into the earlier equations and you get 18.2w for 1 second. And once the cap discharges to the same voltage as the rest of the system, it does NOTHING except present an additional load on your alternator, because it is trying to charge up again. To bring this all back around though. Music is transient load, your voltage drop may in fact only last 0.1s. In which case the cap can discharge 182w for that 0.1s, and prevent your headlights from dimming! Oh happy days In conclusion, they do, in fact, do what they're advertised to on a small system. They also help to mitigate voltage drop across your power cable.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-300952441.htm

They very much look like it. Same as RS25 as well I would say.

Damn, 14psi... wonder who set that up. Factory they boost 17-19psi and 20psi isn't unheard of with a free-flowing exhaust. That's running 98 all the time though.

No thanks - just bought something else today

Yeah, 99% sure it's fake though. Make me an offer?

Right... the final piece of my intake puzzle. What options are out there for an under-manifold intake pipe for this car? I'm currently looking at Perrin and AVO options. I have a Samco one here but I have a sneaky feeling that it's fake so I don't really want to put it on the car. What's out there?

That Galant is MONSTA - made by the same guy as SHARK (the green diamante with the fin on the roof) - same guy has ruined a Merc too. When I last saw it at 4nr a couple of years ago it had 4 monster tachos - there's 3 on the passenger side of the dash, hahaha.

Ordered some fancy Australian aluminium goodies for it

V7 STi has forged pistons, crossdrilled crank and semi-closed block.

Mmm +1 for no cat in JDM V7 STi up-pipe. One in the down-pipe though which, if I was to remove, I would just change the downpipe anyway

That's not the fastest. I know myself and 2 friends that havnt put a wrench on car in a year and more power and we far from fastest. Challenge?..............Over 20,000km so far No issues......Maybe the quickest...Eats STI cars!.Any year! Drivable...........bigger turbo could be fitted but then its a pig at 100 k.......block rated for 450 kw. Not easy to achieve hi hp and be able to use it on the road and the track. Up for a challenge!!! if you reckon you have a more reliable drivable one (1991 Wagon fully optioned with air con etc) that's Quicker across the range......Not fastest down 400 metres. See ya at a tar-seal hillclimb!! Oh come on. All these conditions. There's a lot of cars just on here, let alone all of New Zealand, that are both faster than yours and road legal. Having the fastest around a track road legal 1991 wagon with air conditioning that is 'drivable' by your standards in New Zealand isn't really much of a distinction. I've probably got the fastest 2001 STi with a Version 10 back seat and a slight dent in the bonnet and a blue facelift grill in New Zealand, but I don't go crowing about it.

Passenger side has no compression maybe? Headgasket, timing issue, bent valve? Just throwing out some ideas here. I think the compression test will tell you a lot. Or maybe some sensor on the passenger side related to timing?

Electrical short? A decent enough short (i.e. the time my battery broke free) will cause the engine to stall.

If you're getting blue smoke then it's burning oil. White/blackish smoke is just unburnt fuel but if it's that telltale blue (like a 2-stroke) then I'd be looking pretty hard at your piston. Do a compression test?

How brown is your bumper from all the half-burnt fuel falling out the back

What's the exhaust sound like on it? Just saw a car roughly matching this description drive through Roseneath. Quite high-pitched exhaust note for a subey? EDIT: Never mind, it had the wing on it still.

It said that on the grill... I thought it was just the brand of the fugly kit. Definitely an Impreza underneath though.

Yup, it's an Impreza...

And dangerous on a track car, if you crash it how do the track staff stop the motor? Conclusion: What ARE they for?