boon

If you don't have a hoist pulling the motor is way way easier than wrestling with a 6MT underneath the car.

Tick up the flywheel and deal with it later You probably won't have the engine out again in the time you own the car (hopefully?) so may as well do it.

Have you resolved the massive oil consumption issue yet? No point running the STI intercooler if you don't have the splitter. Never heard of the AC lines thing either. EDIT: Ugh why are you still using multiple accounts? Choose one and stick with it or I'll ban all of them. EDIT2: And using a VPN or something? What in the f*** is going on here? WHY ARE YOU STILL LOGGING IN TO ALL 3 ACCOUNTS AFTER YOU WERE SNAPPED AND SAID YOU WOULD STOP DOING THAT?

I see all the responses about an EJ18T being a bad idea went in one ear and out the other ? If you're worried about a Brighton 220 for $1700 being a waste of money, I hate to tell you that building an EJ18T to go in a 200k+ BD2 is.... a giant waste of money. EDIT: But I guess if you must... there's a BD7 with a EJ22E at Pickapart in Wellington. $250 for the long motor, you just have to pull it out yourself.

It is almost never financially viable to do any swap that ends up with something that the factory actually built in the first place. Especially if you can't do all of the work yourself.

My mind is melting at the thought of buying a manual donor car to manual swap an automatic, when presumably you could just... ya know... drive the manual donor car.

Correct. Viscous one. For what it's worth... check the hub bearings out. Mine did something similar and the hub bearing was completely f***ed. Weirdly if you just jacked the car up and kinda rocked the wheel it felt fine, but upon disassembly it was entirely farked.

The 3.0 is a cruiser. It suits the auto.

I'm running the basic Exedy one, with the matching lightweight flywheel. Feels the same as a stock one in terms of pedal feel and engagement. Drove for a few years at 268kw or whatever it made, no worries. If you're taking engine out, make sure to do the rear main seal and the kidney plate (well, you would do these if you were dropping the box out anyway). I'd probably do the rocker covers while it's out. Don't touch the turbo unless you have a specific need to, although since you'll be removing the downpipe you may as well do that gasket.

Wait, what?

Power goal? Everything stock location pretty much sucks.

On my V7 they mounted up exactly the same as stock

Use the water spray, and don't cane it when you've been sitting at the lights. I was Captain TMIC for the longest time and I was never like "woah this car is down on power".... I mean, the stock setup doesn't even care about IAT IIRC, it measures the temperature at the AFM.

Most of the kits suck and involve completely hacking up or entirely removing the front bar. Seriously, you probably don't need it. Lot of faff for something that actually has limited useful benefit to the vehicle. Just turn the water spray on and keep it topped up. EDIT: Side note, 1.5 bar is about what these cars hit stock...

Yeah the Possum Links are ancient turds these days. Even an old "classic" G4 leaves them for dead.

If the WoF person can tell you've done it, WoF fail..... depending on the vehicle. Doubt it will do much for the sound, to be honest.

You should definitely spend $1000 on tuning an engine that is mysteriously consuming so much oil that the oil pressure light came on

I wonder if you're up to V7 STI money yet

If it's tuned for 91 what's the harm? Example would be the new Highlanders, spec'd for 91, run great on it. Our boat motor (Suzuki) specifies 91.

People asking questions is what drives a good forum. How else do you get knowledge out of people? Every now and then some super helpful person writes a "how to" or something and that's glorious but they're few and far between.

The point of these forums is to ask stupid questions You just have to wade through all the stupid answers. When people have 3 accounts with slightly random-looking email addresses associated with them it SCREAMS scammer or spammer at me. I don't really think you're either, but you're sketching me the hell out regardless. I think you're actually a MASSIVELY keen but quite young person who loves to yarn about cars and dream big about what you're going to do to them. Been there myself a while ago. But the multiple profiles thing is weird AF.

Something is completely fishy here. Why do you have 3 accounts?

Just checking, but about 6 weeks ago you were asking about a catback to fit the 3" downpipe that's already fitted on your 2003 WRX? So now you have an... earlier WRX... that is stock? EDIT EDIT: Are you Bugeye01WRX?

Nobody in NZ does "Stages". It's a US term where they're all about getting a Cobb Accessport out and flashing the exact same tune on 500 cars with exactly the same parts on them. I wouldn't bother doing anything if you're planning to get rid of it. By the time you "stage 2" it, and add some broadly pointless gauges, you're already spending... let's see... north of $3000. That's $3000 towards an STI, that will kill the crap out of a "Stage 2" WRX. Aftermarket gauges are basically pointless. It's 2020, either let the ECU do it's job, or if you need to monitor the car better than the ECU can, get an aftermarket ECU and let that do its job. If something goes pearshaped, it's already pearshaped, knowing that your oil pressure just went through the floor almost certainly isn't going to stop your car going nogga nogga nogga.... If you have to do something to it, get some nice rims and decent tyres. Assuming you stay with a V8 (pretty certain it was V9 when it changed to 5x114.3) or earlier STI, it has the same PCD so you can change your rims over onto your new car when you buy it. Just make sure whatever you buy will clear Brembos. Likewise maybe some suspension goodies, just make sure they'll transfer. You could start buying other parts that will work on your future vehicle, but arguably they either won't do much at all or will actually make the car worse without a tune.

That was my exact experience. Idle was crisp as. Just between about 2000-3000rpm at light throttle it would stumble and burp. Just the flow being inconsistent at very small openings.