Koom

Take the big square cover off the top of the afm (craft knife or flat screwdriver to pry it open). Then carefully remove anything you need to, to get to the main soldered connections from the plug to the pcb board. Re-solder all of those connections. Then re-assembly the whole lot, silicone the cover back on top and see if that sorts it. I\'ve never replaced an afm, just fine that and its sorted it for me every time. The afm\'s I\'ve had due on me have never been the hot wire element in the intake, always old solder connections.

Often it\'s something small and simple but just takes time to fix. Other times it\'s just a dog. Luck of the draw. With the TT\'s it\'s quite often leaky bov causing the vacuum tank to lose it\'s supply of vacuum so then the changeover valves don\'t work. Or split vacuum hoses, leaking intake pipework etc.

I miss the days when my RS had a VF10, chipped ecu and 3" exhaust and I just drove it all the time. Now it takes lots of money, heaps of my spare time and still is no where near being road legal anytime soon

Nope, it shouldn\'t. That\'ll require a cert. Depending on what year it is, cutting the bit under the lights may not be allowed due to frontal impact requirements.

WD40 is no good for that job as it\'s just a water dispersant. You need a penetrating spray. Wurth Rost Off Ice is the best. CRC also make a half decent dispersant.

Depends on controlling (or jamming open) the change over valve that opens when the secondary starts boosting doesn\'t it? I would guess that it wouldn\'t be to difficult to get it running. Not sure if it would gain anything though?

Don\'t you just unplug the cable, pull the rubber boot away, unclip the bulb via the wire clip at the back, then drop the bulb out the rear of the assembly. Usually pretty easy although I haven\'t done a Suby one in ages so could be mixed memories.

It looks like it\'s only got the serial port and no white plug for the usb connector. I\'d say it\'s a possumlink.

Really need an air/fuel ratio check before blindly changing injectors to what they "should" be imo. Does seem odd that there\'s Grey\'s in there.

That is weird. What coils has it got? Single or two bolt versions?

Got any photos with the plugs disconnected off the top of an injector?

Bnt, Edge Performance, Sylvester Performance, Extreme automotive (used to be undercar) would be my first places to look.

Na just keep pulling on it til it starts to go soft, then back it off quarter of a turn....

Yeah definitely just get the exemption and keep it on hold. Easy enough to do online as long as you don\'t forget to keep it up to date. I\'ve been doing mine online for a couple of years now and it just needs a wof before I can just pay for a new rego when it\'s time to go back on the road.

Some pdf\'s that may help? random conversion pdf I found somewhere 4 plug pinouts for wrx, bc5 and bg5a old 4 plug conversion pdf

I don\'t know what other people do to get the pistons out from that point but I use some long pliers to get the clips out. Then a long skinny steel rod to tap out the pins from the opposite sides. Then an old, long Phillips screwdriver that has been perfectly bent to ninety degrees, which gets shoved in those side inspection holes and push the pistons out from underneath. Saves splitting the block if just swapping pistons.

I\'ve always just used any normal 12 point, half drive socket.

There\'s also a couple of other options that I\'ve seen used locally I.e. Albins and Modena. Have also noticed more available out of England these days too. Not sure on comparative costings though? The stronger set up\'s are the ones that use a 6 speed housing and replace 5 gears plus use the factory 6th.

Basic servicing may be easier but the next level up it\'s much worse on an evo. Rear suspension is a mess of arms, getting the box out to swap a clutch is a huge prick of a job etc etc. But then we really shouldn\'t be buying cars with ease of big services in mind....

What\'s wrong with your standard ones? I doubt some n/a cams are going to be an improvement even if they did fit. You\'d get better gains swapping to ej20k or ej20r heads. But I can\'t remember what the deal is with pistons for that combo sorry.

Strictly missionary! Haha Although I\'m the same with my current daily (it\'s staying stock) and I have the unreliable project as something to fill in any spare time in the garage.

Helical or straight cut? Dog or synchro? I\'ve driven a car with straight cut, dog engagement and they\'re great for motorsport but horrible on the road. Required rear muffs. We also eventually broke 3rd. What do you want them for? Racing?

When looking at a bc, check the bottom of the rear window for rust. Especially if the spoiler has been removed. The rust starts along the bottom of the window where the trim is screwed to the body and also starts where the rubber bumpers on the boot lifting arms hit underneath the parcel shelf. Not difficult to fix but not super cheap either. Some chassis\'s get it and some don\'t. If it\'s got rust, it\'ll leak into the boot once it starts getting bad and eventually it\'s a wof fail once it gets near the seatbelt mounts. Also, suspension bushes will change the character of the car from skanky to tight as.

I\'d buy a tidy v4 ish sti or even a wrx ra around the same age and keep it pretty stock. It took far too many dollars and hours to make my bc as fun as my parents v2 wrx ra that they had at the same time. And on the weight argument, mine barely breaks through 1300kg with me and fuel in it. No side intrusion and factory bracing/crumple structures to weigh it down....

Wiseco\'s are often noisy when cold. Mine used to be quiet once up to temp. I did manage to shrink one once. Most likely due to one cylinder running leaner with a possumlink and big injectors and loads of boost I think.