slystiguy

Impact wrenches are great aye! You'll wonder how you did everything in the past without one haha.

the only issue I see is the lag with twin scroll. Hell even my td05 comes on better than that. I was hitting 15psi at 3500 on factory setup just for reference. Power is about right, although I've seen people on this forum push 240kw with that same v8 sti setup. Maybe there is something else at play causing the "knock" ? e.g fuel/spark/electrical component failure imminent

Yup that's the guy. Can't remember the name of the guy he uses..

SAS (Jason n Richard - https://www.facebook.com/SASworkshop/?fref=ts) or have also heard many good things about Fraser @ m45 auto http://www.m45automotive.co.nz/

unsure of the part number but if you post the subaru plate number someone can advise partsouq.com the cheapest place to get seals, and shipping is like 5 working days. I ordered monday, they shipped tuesday and arrived friday!

seen that, you ever done it? Curious to know results

You can, but need to figure out what you're going to do with the 2x head breathers and 1x crank case breather (e.g plumb them to catch can or safe vent place) The other thing is the idle control valve aka IACV. You need this to run cold idle. People sometimes remove them if the car doesn't see daily driving but it requires you to manually idle the car until warm.

shouldn't be spark related then As loner said, could be fuel pump. I'm still thinking afm (subaruspeed.co.nz does them good price) shouldn't be an intake leak if the idle isn't hunting

The good old ej20g aye. Bearing in mind it's probably done over 200kms and is 25 years old. Have you checked for codes? Coils are usually a fault with these but in my experience give different symptoms(backfires,boost cut and missing). Pull them out check for cracks or perished rubber. If they're cracked they need to be replaced. You can cover them with insulation tape as a temp fix. Also check spark plugs out while you're there. AFM would be my guess, they are difficult to identify as faulty unless you have a known good one. Possibly try a local subaru wreckers see if they will let you test one, or another member who can help out? Vacuum leaks- Does car hunt for idle? If the cars anything like my legacy the hoses will be stuffed. Do yourself a favour and go grab some 8mm hose clips and 3m of 5mm vacuum line. Replace all the hoses and clamp them on. Gut your breathing system and plug the intake holes with bolts. Replace the hose going to IACV. Check the intake hose to the turbo isn't completely wrecked, check the intercooler hose (replace with sti silicone one if it's plastic) as when these leak they make car whoosh as the air leaks under boost Run some upper engine cleaner Spray a bit of degreaser into the boost control solenoid hoses

no intake leaks post AFM is key to good running car, that includes vacuum lines

have to be certed and have to be correct size for your hub/ hub centric

Doing something similar on my coupe haha. Flares+ 245 should fit with ease, you'll have to cut into the fender a little depending on how you want it to fit Heaps of info over at Nasioc, The sites down so I can't link right now but there's a big topic in there somewhere with diy fender install write up and discussion http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1427863&page=9

unless you've got a wideband and knock light installed I wouldn't risk it (esp top end). You'll probably find your tune is leaning out. Not safe unless you know what afr's are doing. Would be a shame to pop a nice engine for the sakes of a few psi of boost/spending $800 on a tune. Be smart get it checked out before it's too late. Or get a boost tap and restrict it back to factory boost until you can get tuned.

Most good rattle guns have adjustment dial on them so you can rattle them on without over tightening then go over with the torque wrench to confirm they're tight. Rattle guns are awesome and probably one of the most handy tools around. Makes jobs take half the time with the gun. I grabbed a 18v milwaukee impact and it's been awesome. Air guns are probably cheaper/more user friendly but require air lines ect I use a repco supplied powerbuilt jack, apart from being to big to go under my car it's been good and haven't had any issues yet. I highly recommend you grab a low profile jack, they are so much better. As for torque wrench, depends on application. You really need 2-3 different sizes tbh. Subarus aren't know for having space around nuts/bolts so you won't be able to fit them in half the time or will need special size lol. If it's just for wheel nuts then something that goes upto 200nm with a long handle would be best. For engine work probably something compact. If you buy good quality and treat it well you should get 10 years out of them easy.

SAS / Richard https://www.facebook.com/SASworkshop/?fref=ts Heaps have used him on here without issue

The axle stands are a dime a dozen so no worries there Make sure you get a Jack that's a low profile type, the kits they sell usually aren't the low profile type. It's a **** load easier if you buy a good jack

Sounds tricky haha, can't help as I'm from chch. Just thought you wanted a standard alignment Probably on here somewhere Jono

subarus are easy to align. Should be able to take it anywhere tbh Tell them you want a degree of camber in the front and the toe just set even. Profit see here - http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_Rex_on_rails_1.pdf

would a faulty/failing o2 sensor give you noticeable lag compared to a new one? can v1-2 wrx run o2 in the downpipe without issue? Or is it likely to lean out or something? (normally in headers) Recently swapped from ej207 headers to ej20g headers, lag has come up like it's got an exhaust leak or something. It's very weird. Only thing I can think of is I used an old o2 sensor as the thread was damaged and I didn't wanna thread my newish sensor in there. Or would ej20g headers really cause a difference in response like that?

buy a first gen legacy/wrx. They're cheap as chips, easy to mod for power, easy to play with/troubleshoot, provide a reasonable amount of resale value if kept in tidy condition and above all they're fantastically fun to drive even in stock form. You won't regret it if you want to learn these are the ones to go for.

lol...

oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, wideband

there is a guy importing wrx 22b kits from America $3000 +shipping (Auckland based)

800 for a custom down pipe is pretty up there... Is de-catting the exhaust not an option? The turbo probably won't benefit greatly from 3inch over what's there currently. Unsure with the later model stuff(they gheyyyyy for modding) but with the earlier models you can get a manual crossmember and swap it over? Chances are they're probably the same crossmember on XXX models of cars and could be sourced cheap enough All of this is speculation as I don't care for anything past 2000 haha

lol yea right... Said every subaru owner ever