slystiguy

why not drive both and go from there? The 2.5's don't have the best reputation for longevity but more displacement = more potential for power plus you get low down power the 2.0 come with basically the best of the best ej20 engine, forged internals,twin scroll,avcs. Easily modable later on upto 250kw without need to change internals

Hahaha nah don't be silly Dave! I only road test cars we do alignments on and we only take them around the block in 50km zones just to make sure wheel is center and no other issues. Tbh I drive way cooler more powerful cars than any Subaru on this forum and I absolutely do not thrash any of them, brand new mustangs,modified v8 fords/ holdens, turbo fords, cop cars ect ect (just to name a few). I'm a super honest worker (debate-ably to a fault sometimes). And I absolutely guarantee that your car will not ever go past 4000rpm even on a road test. We are only testing for the work done, not for fun. I have had my own pride and joy raped by some dickhead mechanics in my time and it's not something I ever want to be involved with. If in doubt leave a mic recording in your car without telling me. I talked to my boss today and he said technically we can't give quotes online as it's kinda going against our rules, technically I'm not allowed to advertise which store I work at and can only quote retail lol. So please keep hush hush or the deal might fall through (online at least) As I said before, just ring a few stores and see if they will do something close to that rate.. It's a dam good rate but they should try and match it. But if the new months deal is buy 3 get 1 free it's actually cheaper to buy them that way than go with my price.

yup this is clubsub chch pricing only. I haven't gotten around to making a topic for it yet but got the ok from my boss for a good solid base anyway

just ring a bridgestone store and ask if they could do them for that price, may get lucky, otherwise as I said wait until march and see what the new monthly deal is. Will most likely be buy 3 get 1 free on bridgestone products (firestone was this months deal, changes monthly)

What are you using them for? Street car? re003 are probably better and similar priced from a quick search (cheapest way to get them is to grab them when they do a buy 3 get 1 free deal, probably be on next month) I can do 215/45/17 for $179 inc in chch haha (not much help to you in Auckland sorry)

I used warm water and washing powder, brush it on get the grease loose and spray off. It's pretty harsh so wouldn't wanna leave on your paint or it will make it dull You'll want to cover all electrical stuff pretty much, it might handle it if you let it dry but it's always a bit of a risk with water on sensors... Taking the intake manifold off allows you heaps of room to do it properly if you can be bothered

haha, think I've set mine at about 65 with heaps of gain too

it's on a twin eh? I don't know enough about them (gross engine setups) to offer much more support than refer to the manual... obviously stuck on wastegate for a reason. What the reason for installing it anyway...? 11psi sounds kinda low. Need more details on car/engine/turbo setup. Where you plumbed into and why ect... What type of gfb controller is it? I use a gfb2 on my legacy single turbo and it's been amazing and simple as to install and use

did you have it setup as per the instruction manual?

Well there's a few places it could be leaking from.. Any obvious puddles on ground? Any smoke coming from bonnet vents? Oil in water? What turbo are you running? vf23? top mount intercooler? checked codes?

check coolant is still topped up? Could be a slight leak somewhere. Unsure what you mean by hesitating? And what do mean surging under boost? Common faults on those old cars is plugs/leads/coil pack, afm, fuel pump, bad earths, vacuum leaks from split intake pipes and lines not hose clipped ect,clogged solenoids also checked your codes lately?

Definitely reason to supply (imo) a near full refund. 260 for a 19 isn't exactly expensive,I think re003 is up around 350 a corner for reference. Also pretty sly to put old ****ty tyres on it and expect not to have a problem later. Check build date of originals if you still have them. They really needed to do these things before selling the vehicle so they can work it into the sale price otherwise it comes straight out of what ever profit they made from the sale. Still this shouldn't be your problem, and we definitely wouldn't let that through at our work. Suspicious that they marked the tyres at aa vehicle check as 4mm but yours came back different. Either they never really checked the vehicle properly or they're in each other's pockets. Buyer beware there's a lot of con artist sharks in the automotive industry

At my work we won't put anything on the yard that has less than 4mm tread. I think it's fair to ask for a partial refund as long as you didn't go out and buy super pricey tyres

this thread is poooooossss

yup you definitely can use them just relocate it somewhere else. (don't run high boost unless you're going to use flares on it, otherwise you risk it popping off under pressure)

just use a factory sti one in the mean time

now install a walbro and see if the pressure drops at idle still /see if you actually need to hard wire or if the 11v can still run it well enough. Pretty much every tuner I've talked to recommends hardwiring the fuel pump and using the power wire to trigger a 30amp relay. I guess it's more about eliminating the "what if" situation. The last thing you want is to lean out up the top of rev range eh

looks like we have a bot?????

I think this is pretty pathetic from the warranty company. What's the point in having a warranty if they are going to be THAT pedantic. You could argue fitting a larger profile tyre would have the same affect... Name and shame the warranty company to the days becuase no one here needs to deal with that **** when buying a car, EVER. Utter bull****. How many cars have non-factory alloys on nowadays, if it was really something that caused the issue we would see 1000's of people smashing diffs on a weekly basis. Utter bull **** from a mechanical point of view. I would definitely be contacting mechanics and perhaps even a cert guy and ask if they would be willing to put the obvious in writing (at the expense of a few hours labour of course). I would approach it like this, if the rims and tyres are the same offset/width/size then ask them what difference it makes to the mechanical condition of the car running an identical wheel with different style/colours. Then when they give you some bull**** about it not being covered ask if they do the same for hubcaps because that's effectively what they are saying. When they say no you can lever the situation a bit. Try keep your cool. Be firm but calm. You could also try going to a tyre/wheel shop. Basically if they refuse and it goes to small claims you're going to need some hard facts to rape them with. Also claim for time lost if it goes that way.

should be a whole knuckle assembly attached to that? The metal bits don't look good

pretty sure they are interchangeable...

Either move it up... or use a longer hose (don't use radiator hose, it has to be oil rated)

the 4 wires to my knowledge are not compatible. If you want to save $$ then grab a generic 3 wire o2 and wire it up yourself. There are 2 heater wires and 1 sensor wire. Possibly worth checking out pickapart I sometimes spot the odd new looking o2 sensor in those cars

I've used the GFB ebc2 and it does the job pretty well, looks great, has good amount of settings and options. Although I'm agreed with Marky on this one, it really depends what car it's going on as some can be reflashed quite cheaply. It's better to invest in a good ecu that can control boost than pay full retail for something like this(worth noting a boost controller is probably 1/4 of the cost of ecu +tune even at new, realistically). I didn't pay anywhere near retail for my 2 separate units, my new one was $250 and a second hand one I scored for $80. If you can score one for that price I'd go for it as the mac valve will set you back $100 easy(which most tuners will recommend anyway). ecu range from $300-2000 Flashing/Tunes and setup probably looking $600-1500 New boost controller $450 Food for thought though

Lol was waiting for someone to say that