THUNDA

Take the top hose off (with radiator filled with water), run car untill it reaches operating temp, at operating temperature the thermostat should open and allow the water pump to circulate water, (water should pump down through the radiator, through the engine, and then out the where the radiator top hose connects to the engine) this will tell you if your waterpump is working, and if your thermostat is working. if they both work, put radiator hoses back on. try taking your radiator cap off (careful or you'll get burnt hard haha use a rag), if it only over heats when the radiator cap is ON, you've probably got a leak (worse case = head gasket) if you see steam comming out the resivour pulsating out at a similar speed as the subi rumble = prob head gasket. oil looks like milk? prob head gasket. hope this helps

hi all my new subi started overheating yesturday - (ARRRGG PHUK!) so i ripped into it Lower radiator main hose was leaking - so i Replaced it Car ran fine for about 20mins of driving Then car starts overheating again Radiator Resivour starts leaking from around the sides (i know these resirvoirs suck from previous experiences) - so I replaced it (with the BD5 metal one) Can ran fine for about 20mins of driving then car starts overheating again Look for the leak- find its under the intake manifold, some plastic 3way joiner pipe is leaking - cant get to it but dont think there is much point in replacing it if its just gonna pop another pipe - car doesnt overheat at idle either, it happens when the turbo is being used / your pushing the engine. i replaced thermostat Checked waterpump is cycling (it is) Checked radiator for blockage (its not) My guess is head gasket is leaking between combustion chamber and water galleries - forcing alot of pressure into the cooling system thus popping pipes what are your guys thoughts? ive had this happen before - but i could tell it was this because with the radiator cap off the car wouldn't overheat and you could see the steem pulsing out of the reserviour at the same rate as the "bop bop bop" subi noise at idle. but this time it doesnt do this...

Hey all Just bought another legacy (1993 BF5) And the brakes randomly play up every now and then i.e, after sitting at a set of lights with your foot on the brake, you release the brake pedal but then when you drive off it feels like the brakes havn't released properly, and once they start "not releasing" it gets to a point (over like 1minutes) where the car is no longer movable without risking engine damage. I simply pop the bonnet, undo one of the brake lines that comes off the master cylinder (forgot what its called but maybe proportion valve? maybe not though lol, have circled in photo but i cant get a better photo than that), it squirts out immediately (under alot of pressure) then I tighten it back up and away it goes again, brakes work perfectly other than this and it comes on at random times, has only happened twice since owning it. anyone got any ideaS?

Do u fix it frm under the car or frm nside?

What size pipe?

Where to get the bushes?

Gearstick realy floppy, hav heard its jst a bush at botm of gearstick, ne1 knw wot its cald and hw 2fix it? cheers 0210666306

huh? i wasnt getting cranky lol, it actually backed up what you said mate.. must be a translation error

he said he was cranking the #%@#$ out of it this means starter and battery are fine I'd look at changing your spark plugs if they havnt been done, otherwise its just done high as **** k's are has fak all compression when cold, change to a thicker oil

twin turbo fail ;D (sorry)

yup, unbolt exhuast after downpipe (y pipe) off turbo, flange will be roughly under front seats of underside of car , yup it makes it loud, it makes it sound fukn SHREADA when ur on boost tho

plumback FTW altho i do have turbosmart external vent atm on hard so hardly ever goes off really, but i dont boost that often anymore, fuck i need to buy a daily driver, driving central to south and back everyday is $$$$

yes

Drained battery from cranking too much when it wont start Could be an alternator but not likely (in my opinion) Charge the battery and see if the car will turn on, if it does it may be your alternator, as when the car is running the car uses energy created by the alternator to create a spark though coils, battery doesnt supply power to coils, instead the battery is only used to crank the starter and supply a small voltage to the alternator to get it to do its job. I would say fuel pump tbh or blocked fuel filter? fuel filter has more of a gradual process to it though, not an al of a sudden blockage, but ya never know

fuel filter has been recently replaced (its shiney...) and fuel pump has a good earth and full power (not really any other way to check if its functioning perfectly but wouldnt be surprised due to its age if its failing) is it true you can just resoilder the joints in your afm (circuit board) and it will run like new again? have heard this from many people now

didnt you come to my house with shale to pick up that GT? maybe it was someone else Central auckland area

also sometimes the car smells like petrol (when running), i.e; not all of the fuel is being burnt. standard coils as far as i know but its likely they have been changed considering the car has done 250,00kms Anyone got a spare green sticker afm they wanna lend me or sell me?

it runs fine when its cold and starts sweet it just takes awhile to turn over sometimes (longest is like 4-5seconds) boost cut at 14psi? ive had about 6 or 7 of these old legacys, i do the same things everytime and none of them have run like this, these cars dont just go "BOOM" if you turn the boost up, hell you guys are making these cars sound like they dont have strong engines! if only you all knew how much thrashing i have dealt to these cars (lets not dance around it) and NEVER had one blow up on me, maybe its because i never fuck around when it comes to servicing the car. runs sweet at 10psi, as soon as it goes above that it starts to muck around.

Heya guys am having a bit of trouble with my legacy its a nz new single turbo ej20 manual wagon. I recently have installed a boost controller (hehe) it is just a bleed type, i.e; bleeds pressure off wastegate actuator to trick the system into thinking there is less pressure in the intake manifold. when i turn the boost up to 14psi, the car boosts perfectly most of the time, but every now and then it misses during boost at about 5000rpm, then carries on as normal. the miss is like its miss firing due to lack of spark, but could it be lack of fuel? because when it misses a cloud of black smoke comes out the back it never misses on standard boost though and sometimes takes ages to start? but not when its just been turned off then back on. car was serviced 1500kms ago, but it doesnt state whether or not the spark plugs were replaced, but id assume they were not replaced seeing as though the reccomended plugs cost $20ish each

get a silencer from an exhaust shop, I paid $80 for mine and they just tak welded it into the tip, got my wof, broke the tacks off, and out it came, now its in the boot of my old white BC5 RS lol

hmmmm, i'd be very interested in building an engine like this, single turbo though, ive had enough twin turbo, whats a ej30 engine worth these days?

that would be interestiung to drive

it would sound f**rkn cool

you mean wastegate sticks closed?

yup bits for subaru are awesome fellas theres a dude there with a bc5, with probably no bc5 parts in it what so ever, think its all wrx, sounds brilliant