THUNDA

fark yeah that car is beautiful

anyway you could stretch it to 20k? cos I BLOODY LOVE VERSION 8\'s!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! edit** and would recommend one to anyone

loud bov noises are shameful i rekon , plumb back bov\'s ftw i secretly love external wastegates

hahahahaha welcome to japan. fapfapfpafpafpafpafpa hHaha ive seen that somewhere before and though "wtf"? is it ment to be fetish pr0n ?

yep^ proper installs will save the day but as far as i was aware the majority cars with alarms have the wiring for immobilisers installed under the steering column (stupid, but true) thus making the majority of alarm installs kaka but yeah a proper install will save you in most cases

maybe for you mate ;D

fark gutted man, next car get a removable steering wheel (clip on) an alarm wont stop these fuks, they sure as hell wont have a steering wheel in their back pocket

Hey all bc5 legacy (t) auto transmission shat itself, i have an auto bd5 legacy(tt) sitting in my driveway for parts and am just wondering if the 2 transmissions are interchangeable? would save me time and money if i could replace the bc5\'s tranny with the one in the bd5 any help would be great cheers

The ej20 engine comes in many, many different forms due to its vast use throughout the subaru range for well over ten years, over that time its been developed and changed to suit subarus applications I\'d go with all solid lifters if you have spare heads with them in Cant say ive ever had to worry about lifters in any of the legacys ive owned but from what i gather there are people who "upgrade" to solid lifters so it seems to be a preferable option although it wouldnt surprise me at all if both options made little difference

whats different about the ecu? prova chip in it or is it something more special than that?

Hmmm am pretty sure the ones that are standard are the ones with the springs because ive heard of people "upgrading" to solid lifters, could be wrong id have a look at the other bank and match them with the ones in there. sounds like its had noisy lifters previously and someones swapped them out with ones theyve had out of a different ej20

Hey All Am just curious about something Mates got a dirty old BC5, Seems pretty standard... has leather seats but other than that looks like a normal BC but I noticed in the gauge cluster above the odometer it says "PROVA" Where usually (well on the BC\'s ive owned) it just says nothing I asked my mate what does PROVA mean, and he blew some shit out his arse about it having a spec\'d up engine and suspension. Looked it up online : http://www.nengun.com/prova/ turns out its a part company specializing in subaru Am just curious as to what exactly PROVA upgrades would be found on a PROVA equiped BC ? Is it some special engine enhancement mods that ive never heard of? or is it just something to do with having a leather interioir?

great thread

^^damn thats a slick looking engine bae! im curious, is the intake manifold stainless, polished or painted chrome?

lol that dude would of had an auto wagon blown up in his back yard or something, and used plates/tags off it you can change the engine, gearbox/transmission and also the registered colour status at a post office(i think), but wagons dont usually turn into sedans

CUDDAS your rs is f**king beautiful

10 w40 magnatec is an all rounder, great on most applications ran shell 5w30 in my first bc because the bottle had the ferrari symbol on it ;D (i was 17) ended up blowing bottom end bearing, was definately the oil that made it go, had nothing to do with running 20psi daily on stock internals (yes, looking back i shake my head at myself)

more likely to be a failing coil/spark plug, although at kms that low you wouldnt expect that, check spark plugs are gapped, could also be a vacuum leak, unless youve got the boost wound right up but it doesnt sound like boost cut

Gold ones, no doubt.

If you ignore it for a few months does your car still run?

haha the man ^ "smooth operator" must run in your blood also lol as for OP In my experience (ive only done it once) running the td05 on the standard bc5 engine other than exhaust system upgraded worked perfect for me for about 2months before I upgraded my fuel pump purely for risk of it running lean, detonation is a dangerous thing if you dont know what it is you can root your car, to be safe I rekon at least upgrade fuelpump. btw the standard CAI is fine (even with the ugly "fat-tank") you dont need a stupid pod filter, unless you're looking for a large kW gain then you'll need to buy a red one.

In my experience Every wagon I've owned has had a "GT" badge, every wagon i've owned that was manual has had a "GT 4WD" badge and the one NZ New Turbo Manual Wagon ive owned had a "Turbo 4WD" badge Every Sedan i've owned has had an "RS" badge - I havnt owned an auto sedan

yeah its left me clueless never experienced anything like it on all of the legacys ive owned what happens is when you are turning (i.e turning around or turning 90* out of a driveway) it feels like the rear diff is struggling and holding the car back, i hear slight loss of traction from one of the rear wheels (this is when driving normally out of a driveway, im not trying to drift or even remotely driving fast) car is fine when driving along and turning at any speeds above around 20km/h. its just when im pulling out of a driveway or turning around when the car goes from a stationary position with the steering wheel 3/4 - Full lock. All CV boots front and rear are intact (inner and outer) cvs dont click diff has algd oil trans has the right amount of transfluid what do you guys rekon? its a pre-facelift BF5 legacy wagon, Auto, Turbo, done 190ish kms, its my gfs car.. : lol

Take the top hose off (with radiator filled with water), run car untill it reaches operating temp, at operating temperature the thermostat should open and allow the water pump to circulate water, (water should pump down through the radiator, through the engine, and then out the where the radiator top hose connects to the engine) this will tell you if your waterpump is working, and if your thermostat is working. if they both work, put radiator hoses back on. try taking your radiator cap off (careful or you'll get burnt hard haha use a rag), if it only over heats when the radiator cap is ON, you've probably got a leak (worse case = head gasket) if you see steam comming out the resivour pulsating out at a similar speed as the subi rumble = prob head gasket. oil looks like milk? prob head gasket. hope this helps

hi all my new subi started overheating yesturday - (ARRRGG PHUK!) so i ripped into it Lower radiator main hose was leaking - so i Replaced it Car ran fine for about 20mins of driving Then car starts overheating again Radiator Resivour starts leaking from around the sides (i know these resirvoirs suck from previous experiences) - so I replaced it (with the BD5 metal one) Can ran fine for about 20mins of driving then car starts overheating again Look for the leak- find its under the intake manifold, some plastic 3way joiner pipe is leaking - cant get to it but dont think there is much point in replacing it if its just gonna pop another pipe - car doesnt overheat at idle either, it happens when the turbo is being used / your pushing the engine. i replaced thermostat Checked waterpump is cycling (it is) Checked radiator for blockage (its not) My guess is head gasket is leaking between combustion chamber and water galleries - forcing alot of pressure into the cooling system thus popping pipes what are your guys thoughts? ive had this happen before - but i could tell it was this because with the radiator cap off the car wouldn't overheat and you could see the steem pulsing out of the reserviour at the same rate as the "bop bop bop" subi noise at idle. but this time it doesnt do this...