Wiretap

Must be the season, my B4 just did the same thing. The aftermarket Alloy radiators are prone to being 'eaten through' by your coolant within 1 year, I went down that route with two of my cars and both now run standard radiators again.

The trigger pattern on most VSS is a 50% duty cycle, so any wheel you make simply needs to have an equal number of space of teeth and no teeth. The Jaycar frequency scaler will work so long as the frequency is the same as or higher than the original frequency. With regards to the car not having ABS. you could simply swap say, the LF hub for an ABS hub and use that via the frequency scaler to drive the speedo I'd say. It'd look tidy too!

Depends on the VSS, you most likely will want to hook them up to an oscilloscope to find out. Some older VSS are 'switch drive', where they repeatedly open and close a contact to either +5V, +12V or GND. Subaru ones are magnetic reluctor so may (I have never scoped one) produce the same signal as an ABS sensor. This system, however, may not be up to legal standard still... Alternatively, your car likely has ABS. There are devices on the market that will take an ABS trigger ring signal and turn it into a speedo drive signal, this may be a better bet.

Stuff all, gearboxes are unpressurised, you might get some leaks later down the track but I would say its unlikely.

There's good news on the ECU front. My research has found that a V7 STi ECU is a plug-in fit. You can use it with the stock engine without any extra wires being run but you'll need to set the AVCS targets all to 0 and disable the codes for the missing TGVs

I dont think RomRaider can't do anything that ECUFlash can't do, and to be quite honest (i think) ECUFlash does a better job of graphing things. How did you read/write the ECU without the use of ECUFlash? funky:thread cleaned up. and post edited as its opinion based.

more 'experienced' members would have noticed the one thing in common with all the people providing 'negative feedback' on your plans.

Good luck, nothing fits out of the box, you will have to drill new holes for the headlights, reshape the guards, there's a fair bit involved as I recently defacelifted a gen1 If you really want a facelift and are in auckland, I have a Legacy GT-S2 available for a reasonable price (possibly with a large discount for a swap) If, however, you are still determined to convert your prefacelift (which are worth MUCH more) to a facelift, then I demand a firing squad.

This is not a recommended course of action. You _CAN_ use a hammer to disassemble a fragile instrument, but it really isn't wise. There are NO four plug ECUs that ran yellows from the factory. Some can with chips. The worst that can happen is that you hydro-lock your engine due to flooding..... but sultan would already be familiar with that What happened to your link anyway? Just throw the injectors in and scale the fuel map...

thats an RS piston, aint gonna hold back that much power, and clearly det loves to eat them.

Your window switch is faulty. Please return the vehicle to the dealer for service.

Different HX20s have different ratios, probably best to get a diff and gearbox as a set, as there is no exact science for working out which is which

motor serial numbers are not a sticker, theyre engraved/pressed into the block, they are also NOT unique (I've had 800,000 series blocks from 94 and 98)

maximum theoretical vacuum is -1bar since you cannot have less than nothing... even -1 bar exists only in theory as you can never get all the atoms out...

Youve spent a couple of days asking us to psychokinetically diagnose a problem with a car we've never seen, and when we say waterpump, you're reluctant to investigate the issue... We're here to help you, not tell you what you want to hear...

I take it you like wasting time? and who on earth is your mechanic? 3-4 hours? it's a 2 hour job at worst... bite the bullet and replace the pump, they only make noise if the bearing has failed.

Sounds like it could be detonation, either that or you're colliding with boostcut due to creep... either way, pull it back a little unless you want cornflakes.

battery, brake warning and ps warning can be either alternator failure (but I wouldnt expect to see a failure of steering pressure), or belt snapping.

The flange cannot be assembled 90 degrees out as it is off-square, its actually a rectangular bolt pattern...

The 'LEGO' effect comes into play here, yep, it will bolt up cleanly, along with prettymuch everything but the struts.

I'd be able to do a single turbo in 30-40 minutes with power tools, I'm pretty sure of that (my 2 hours was with no powertools at all)

to paraphrase Jeremy Clarkson (the real one): These two cars, you see, their names aren't really appropriate, if they were in a bar, it would be the Mitsubishi Did-you-just-spill-my-pint, and the Subaru YOU-OUTSIDE-NOW.

you, IIRC, need type-R rear hubs? as the GDB ones will be too wide? someone correct me here?

this is the song that never ends?

well "GT-Limited" and "GTB-Limited" are more different when spoken than "GTB" and "GT-B" so it still clarifies somewhat.