Wiretap

Google agrees with this. Jesus these things are cheap compared to VFs... i have no reason to lie and yes they can be You were unsure, I wasn't suggesting you might lie. I was saving you the trouble of digging up a CD tomorrow

Google agrees with this. Jesus these things are cheap compared to VFs...

Best avoid anything with any more than an axle/diff-back exhaust. They tend to be a bit picky. RevD is well worth it, since they can be re-tuned without ECUTek.

Just use a vice. Dont tighten it up quickly, just turn it about 1/4 turn every 5 seconds or so until it is retracted, then pop a pin back in.

I once wrapped a steel tube that I think was from the top of the shifter, in some thin and solid tape and used that, extremely solid shifter feel, almost painful at times, it certainly hurt if you missed during a fast shift.

From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice.

You say it's not pre ignition but then turn around and say it is? Here is a quote from your source you supplied. Pre-ignition (or preignition) in a spark-ignition engine is a technically different phenomenon from engine knocking, and describes the event wherein the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites before the spark plug fires. Pre-ignition is initiated by an ignition source other than the spark, such as hot spots in the combustion chamber, a spark plug that runs too hot for the application, or carbonaceous deposits in the combustion chamber heated to incandescence by previous engine combustion events Not pre ignition. It knocks less at high rpm because air mixes and swirls more and has less chance of knocking. That's a fact. Also stayed in your supplied source. I also don't see the need to have 30psi before 3000 so held boost at 13psi till 3000 then up to 27-33 depending on fuel type used. I said it's not, but with regards to its effects may aswell be, that is very different from saying it is. In any case, it seems you don't want to hear what I have to say so I will say no more

While it's not pre-ignition, it's ignition before MBT, your burn is completing before the crank reaches 16* ATDC, so it may aswell be pre-ignition. This will create the same rattle as knock, and it'll still come through the headphones, but at a different frequency (a knock sensor with appropriate filter will not register provided your timing isn't toooo absurd)

I disagree with this statement. Knock is not a premature burn completion. However MBT does certainly shift to a more retarded timing at lower RPMs. Some light reading to clarify my point: What is knock vs pre-ignition? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking

My thoughts on this issue are a wee bit complex. Does more power lower down (forget boost, boost is just shoving more air in, that in itself isn't going to do anything strain wise) increase strain on rods/crank vs the same power higher up? - At particularly low revs and high load the burn may complete before the crank angle has changed all that much, while at first thought one might think that it would put undue force on bearings and things, I don't believe so, since that force is still going to be applied higher up. It's the same force however the engine speed is high enough that the burn is not unduly fast. - There's a psychological element to it since 'lugging' feels bad (and causes carbon buildup), but I am doubtful that lugging actually puts any significant extra strain on the bottom end unless the timing is unduly advanced where detonation takes over as the cause of trouble. - In terms of strain vs RPM. The crank is definitely under greater strain at higher RPM as it is moving faster and therefore, while the _amount_ of instantaneous strain (or strain per revolution even) doesn't change, it is occurring more often/shorter time and therefore total strain for the same time period is greater. Regardless of the above thoughts, is it anything to worry about? - I honestly don't think so given that many modern turbo european cars (VW Golf, Audi A1 are the two I'm looking at in this instance) run compression ratios greater than 9.5:1 (2010 Golf GTI, 9.6:1 as per http://www.netcarshow.com/volkswagen/2010-golf_gti/ ) and spool to full boost by about 1800rpm. Subaru also have done this in the past, BC5 and BF5s equipped with the VF10 spooled to full boost by around 1600-1800rpm and the BE5D TT spools to 1bar+ by 1400rpm. Looking at the above points I personally disagree with Sultan/Mike and concur with MercuryFree/Rob

If they're greeny-blue they may be smaller. Otherwise WRX blues are 430cc.

Filthy or just oxidised? My BE has some serious oxidisation issues on the trim surrounding the fixed side windows (quarter glass) I'm not sure how to fix them but I'm betting they can be bought new

Keep it legal ya muppets. in any case, 150 is instant disqual.

Allgood, even the dealer that sold me my B4 didn't know about that, I ended up with two because of it

The fibreboard thing that sits on top of your spare wheel. It lives on the bottom of that.

If your rear windscreen is leaking it may have rust under it. I'm a bit worried about this as my BC5 is doing the same through the front screen and does have rust elsewhere in the car.

We were only talking about pre-v5 ECUs, V5-onwards are all tunable but there's no 'open source' solution for anything prior to V7.

I will not vote for Link. I have been rather disappointed in their ability to properly emulate the functionality of factory ECUs.

You won't be doing any injector swapping without an aftermarket ECU.

If you want a chain-drive engine go EZ

Give the starter a seriously good smack with something solid, it doesn't take all that much to unseize them.

Nope, The AVCS does not cause a table change. AVLS does, but on non-AVLS engines the only thing that causes a table switch is if you have a tonne of knock. Unless it has thrown a CEL, the ECU is ignoring the fact there is no AVCS. Because you didn't have exhaust-AVCS this should be okay, but you will as they said be down on power. I personally would still recommend fixing it. Worth noting that I can do this another way but you'd need to send me both ECUs which would mean your car was out of action for 1-2wks.

I had this issue on my H6. Pulled all the filters out and it went away.

I did, he asked about the back plastic, not black plastic.

What you can do then, since they're all nupties down there. is either find someone with an OpenPort or buy one from www.tactrix.com . Use that to pull the ROM image from both ECUs and send them to me. There may be someone down your way who can help you but I'm afraid I don't know who.