Fitting a simease pipe ?

[Guest]

Im fitting a saimese pipe to my v7 sti in the next few weeks and have a few questions before i start .

I have a moderate tool selection and want to know if i need any uncommon tools ,flexi adaptors etc ,

Secondly if i can get my hands on some car ramps (assuming i can get my car onto some )would this make it easier or does the majority of the work go through the top of the engine bay ?

Any pointers would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance

[mattapo]

I thought the STI's were siamese standard?

[Guest]

Not sure mate, but i want to get rid of the cat converter and the aftermarket pipes like the rage are surpose to flow alot better and open it up a bit .

[Pappu1]

just normal tools - i think 12, 14, 10, i think thats it - a ring and socket both be ideal

and crc lol..

yea can do most from on top and then the downpipe from underneth

if u taking out the 02 sensor then need 22 or thatexer the 02 sensor bolt size is - someone can confirm - or u can buy one off me hahaha

and cannot stress the importance of a cold engine

[funkytown]

the turbo exhuast housing has 5 nuts/bolts. They are a 14mm - and spanners will do. The top four you can get from the engine bay, the last one underneath center and is a real cunt.

I would recommend WD40'ing them all before attempting to remove it. The bottom one is best attacked with a 3/8' drive socket with a flexi join on it, and a 14mm socket. a 1/2' drive is to big to get the right angle and your round the bolt, the 1/4' is to small.

The O2 sensor is a 22mm spanner, and will be hard as hell to get out most likely.. you can do the old attach a spanner to the open end of the 22mm trick to get more leverage.

Its a two bolt flange at the mid section join - these are 14mm as well from memory and not to trickey to get off.

Theres probably 1 or two mounting brakets that hold the down pipe to the chassis - self explanitory removal for those.

when putting it all back together you mind as well get a new steel gasket for both ends and apply a small amount of gasket goo and stops potential future leaks.

you'll definately need access to the underside of your car to do this.

[subiv5]

You may have to "squash" or bend the wastegate pipe to fit around the steering linkage depending on the type of down pipe, I know that this has had to happen on both my V7 Sti and V4 Sti when fitting a Siamese down pipe. Eg this below:

[funkytown]

arrr true.. my 3" one is miles from my steering linkage in my v3.. unknown brand though

certainly something to be mindful of - i didnt think of.

ninga edit...

that looks like a totally divorced wg line... Siamese ones some times people confuse as the bellmouth with the WG divider at the top - depends what the OP has actually got.. mines the bell mouth with splitter design fyi

[Pappu1]

u need to squash the pipe in the v7 because the pipe being fitted is made for GC8 models. the v7 one has the steering link closer to the exhaust hence there have specific v7 ones.

the v7 ones will fit the older models but the older ones will not fit the v7 unless u squash the pipes hard

[subiv5]

 pappu said:

u need to squash the pipe in the v7 because the pipe being fitted is made for GC8 models. the v7 one has the steering link closer to the exhaust hence there have specific v7 ones.

the v7 ones will fit the older models but the older ones will not fit the v7 unless u squash the pipes hard

Yeah good point, my V4 also had to have a little of the pipe bent back, but no where near as much as the one in the Photo

[Guest]

I brought a v7 specific one so should be no probs ......Well as long as no bolts are siezed !!!!!

Thanks guyz and will deffinately do cold !!!

[Guest boostin]

Give it a good soak of CRC/WD40 the night before to give it time to work in.

[DRFVDR]

 funkytown said:

the turbo exhuast housing has 5 nuts/bolts. They are a 14mm - and spanners will do. The top four you can get from the engine bay, the last one underneath center and is a real **** .

I would recommend WD40'ing them all before attempting to remove it. The bottom one is best attacked with a 3/8' drive socket with a flexi join on it, and a 14mm socket. a 1/2' drive is to big to get the right angle and your round the bolt, the 1/4' is to small.

The O2 sensor is a 22mm spanner, and will be hard as hell to get out most likely.. you can do the old attach a spanner to the open end of the 22mm trick to get more leverage.

Its a two bolt flange at the mid section join - these are 14mm as well from memory and not to trickey to get off.

Theres probably 1 or two mounting brakets that hold the down pipe to the chassis - self explanitory removal for those.

when putting it all back together you mind as well get a new steel gasket for both ends and apply a small amount of gasket goo and stops potential future leaks.

you'll definately need access to the underside of your car to do this.

I was wondering how long it took for u to use that trick

[Guest]

wd40 d bolts this morning , heat shield was a bitch to get off ,got 4 turbo / exhaust bolts off but found it easier to remove the intercooler (on pizza break at the moment ) hopefully the last turbo bolt is not to hard !!!!

[Stoffa]

with the heat sheild off and the right sized socket extension you CAN get the last bolt from the top, just need to figure the right way to bend your wrist to get leverage to crack the bolt

[Guest]

Done !!!!

Its in ,modified turbo heat shield to fit back on also ,all bolts were good except the bottom turbo one it picked up a threat and striped the stud thread when undoing !!!!!

Needed to get it back together seams to hold a little pressure and no leaks from turbo

But........... the rage pipe flange (that bolts onto the midpipe ) has been weilded 30 degrees out from where the factory one is so i cant bolt the 2 flanges together , managed to botch it up with maniseal and a few large washers and bolts but only so i can get it to a muffler shop to get the 2 pipes weilded together (or a 3" flexi to join them ) the simease pipe is 3" and the rear pipe is 3" but the flange on the rear pipe is 2.5 to fit to the old system so this should remove that restriction to thanks for the info every one 8)

[Guest]

Cool any chance of a pic of the original - just to see how the mouth looks? Cheers

[Scoobydoo]

What kind of pipe did you get, where from and how much did it cost? Im looking for the same thing for mine atm.

[Guest]

I think he used a Rage - bit sounds like it did'nt bolt up to the centre pipe very well?

[Guest]

 Scoobydoo said:

What kind of pipe did you get, where from and how much did it cost? Im looking for the same thing for mine atm.

It was a rage one , it was specific to a v7 (designed to clear the steering linkage on a v7)

It was a simease style one ,I got it from partsco nz for $275 + freight ,Auto bend (the manufactor) charge $359 for them.

Yea the rear flange was weilded on 30 deg out so im now going to have fo pay to get the pipe cut and flanges removed and weilded so not overly stoked

[Scoobydoo]

Is that how they come normally, or was it modified for some reason?

[Guest boostin]

Was it a 3" pipe or 2.5"??

[Guest]

No should have come in factory spec i think someone made it on a friday arvo after to many beers !!!!

Shes a 3" simease 8)

[Scoobydoo]

Ok I just got an email back from Autobend, they confirmed that it wouldn't fit a stock system at the bottom.

That's a bit $hit really. Will need to pay an exhaust shop money no matter which way I go

[Guest]

 Scoobydoo said:

Ok I just got an email back from Autobend, they confirmed that it wouldn't fit a stock system at the bottom.

That's a bit $hit really. Will need to pay an exhaust shop money no matter which way I go

Na mate thats bs before i got mine the guy said they had sold loads of them and never had any fitment issues but they dont guarantee perfect fitment , they stuffed up when making mine (poss a whole batch)

I gave them a call this morning and they were apologetic and were going to check their stocks and talk to the staff so prob more like a 50/50 chance of dirrect fitment ,

You could always ring them and hey have resolved this before buying one .

8)

[Pappu1]

i had a similar issue with the 2 "V7 specific" ones i tried..

one was hitting the steerinfg linkage under heavy acceleration and turnig (basically all out on a bend and it wud scrape the steering llinkage) - make sure give that a go cos its bloody annoying to see such happen

and the 2nd one had an angle on the flange and bloody thing wudne line up correctly..not sure if was 30 degrees or wat but just not strait fit..

fed up of the stuff i got me a custome made 1 piece unit from turbo to muffler (for sale incedently ;D)