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Det on 98 gas


neil2121

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 funkytown said:

what codes if any? what boost? what mods? reset the ecu lately.. (hmm rev d not so easy to reset).

does yours have the TGV valves?

Not flashing any codes. If there were errors, the check light would flash right?

Does it with bugger all boost. No mods that I know of apart from a larger muffler for the rumble, but it otherwise runs pretty normally.

Haven't reset the ecu. Is it just a battery disconnect?

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Common as !

These cars are spec'd to run 100 octane fuel and the ign MAP is slightly too agressive (over advanced) for our fuel ( even 98 ) during light throttle accel

As it's not a loaded det bearings do not get damaged anyway

Get your dealer to retard the ign timing by 5deg, this all but cures the problem

(note , you'll have to get this setting redone if you clear memory or diconnect battery at any stage )

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 Ichi Ban said:

Common as !

These cars are spec'd to run 100 octane fuel and the ign MAP is slightly too agressive (over advanced) for our fuel ( even 98 ) during light throttle accel

As it's not a loaded det bearings do not get damaged anyway

Get your dealer to retard the ign timing by 5deg, this all but cures the problem

(note , you'll have to get this setting redone if you clear memory or diconnect battery at any stage )

The only problem is that it takes that timing out of the whole map and makes it quiet slugish IMO.

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Never noticed any car sluggish with this mod, nor had any customers have an issue with 5deg retarded program

Suppose you chose either bearings or what you feel is a loss in power

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You could try 1 heat range colder on the spark plugs to help reduce detonation. EG you might have BCPR6ES. Changing to BCPR7ES will often fix/reduce detionation and missfires

95% of the cars we tune at work run 1 heat range colder spark plugs.

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 GETLOW said:

You could try 1 heat range colder on the spark plugs to help reduce detonation. EG you might have BCPR6ES. Changing to BCPR7ES will often fix/reduce detionation and missfires

95% of the cars we tune at work run 1 heat range colder spark plugs.

This is a det problem not a pre ignition problem

But totally argree with running 1 range cooler with modified vehicles

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  • 1 month later...

Hi there guys

Now i was refered here by another post as i had posted this questions everywhere and couldnt get some solid answers .

This post has opened my eyes and helped alot but i have a question.

How do i tell what revision my subaru legacy b4 rsk is ?

I know the car is a 2002 model?

And it has major detonation and our fuel here isnt grreat infact it sucks as its low like a 93 octane or so .

Will speak to a subaru dealer in South africa when i visit there .

But i dont know what revision my car is so would appreciate some help

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Guest S T  E Y E

general rule of thumb for spark plugs as NGK states is normally every 100 flywheel hp u make more than standard u go 1 heat range colder on the plug...this is just general however not a bible by any means...ive found bcpr7es a good as plug...

u might have the spark gap too wide?? have u tried the plug at 0.7mm or 0.8mm?? factory gap is normally 1.1mm

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 adamsaiyad said:

Hi there guys

Now i was refered here by another post as i had posted this questions everywhere and couldnt get some solid answers .

This post has opened my eyes and helped alot but i have a question.

How do i tell what revision my subaru legacy b4 rsk is ?

I know the car is a 2002 model?

And it has major detonation and our fuel here isnt grreat infact it sucks as its low like a 93 octane or so .

Will speak to a subaru dealer in South africa when i visit there .

But i dont know what revision my car is so would appreciate some help

water injection is popular in SA

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Right thankyou for the fast response.

I have just checked on the tag and its a revision D so the number goes like BE5D .....

Now i need to be armed with some really good information here so that i can get the right job done.

What subaru tool is used to do this job ?

What should i tell the dealer to user etc cause i know they going to tell me my car is a jap Domestic car in South Africa and they have never sold this type of legacy before so there fore will not do the job for me etc etc...

Please help me and arm me with the right information so i can get this job done .

If they pull the tiiming back a little and i loose a little power i dont mind .

However i really dont want to break the engine i just want it to run reliably .

This is my second legacy the previoous model we had was a 1999 model and ran like krap i really mean like krap it had no oxygen sensor so i installed one and went through three airflow meters cause of the racing air filter i had ( didnt come with a original air box)

So i sold it and got this new one with a new type airflow meter same tyope thats used in a is200 altezza lexus ....

Any ways it runs really well when its not detonating lol....

I hope the dealership resolves this for me and i would be one very happy man .

Revision d cars have tunable ecus but what else can be tuned on them should i get my own odbII software to try and resolve the issue if the dealership denies me ??

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Guest S T  E Y E

you dont "need" a o2 sensor...(hides from people throwing things at me)

a o2 sensor is simply a "closed loop" sensor...the ecu ignores what the o2 says on WOT anyway so its not gona make much difference...

a o2 sensor wen the ecu listens to it alters the fuel mixture and goes ohh shit its too rich im gona make it lean now...then oh shit its too lean now im gona make it richer...oh shit its too rich im gona make it leaner.... etc etc etc

it pings between rich and lean all the time thats how they work....

u can run without a o2 sensor...(links dont use o2 sensor)...normally people will only use wide band for tuning 0-5v...standard o2 is narrow band 0-1v so not acurate at all...in some cases a o2 sensor can make it surge wen going rich to lean etc

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 adamsaiyad said:

Right thankyou for the fast response.

I have just checked on the tag and its a revision D so the number goes like BE5D .....

Now i need to be armed with some really good information here so that i can get the right job done.

What subaru tool is used to do this job ?

What should i tell the dealer to user etc cause i know they going to tell me my car is a jap Domestic car in South Africa and they have never sold this type of legacy before so there fore will not do the job for me etc etc...

Please help me and arm me with the right information so i can get this job done .

If they pull the tiiming back a little and i loose a little power i dont mind .

However i really dont want to break the engine i just want it to run reliably .

This is my second legacy the previoous model we had was a 1999 model and ran like krap i really mean like krap it had no oxygen sensor so i installed one and went through three airflow meters cause of the racing air filter i had ( didnt come with a original air box)

So i sold it and got this new one with a new type airflow meter same tyope thats used in a is200 altezza lexus ....

Any ways it runs really well when its not detonating lol....

I hope the dealership resolves this for me and i would be one very happy man .

Revision d cars have tunable ecus but what else can be tuned on them should i get my own odbII software to try and resolve the issue if the dealership denies me ??

A possible option for you depending on budget etc. Reflash/Logging/Diag Codes for Liberty/Legacy Rev D (DENSO ECU)

Purchase EZYFLASH unit from here:http://www.ezy-flash.com/products

Purchase additional tune set ROMS from here:http://www.chiptorque.com.au/Ezy-FLASH_Pro.html

A more do it yourself option:

Purchase a OBD II cable http://www.tactrix.com/

Download software EcuFlash:http://www.docstoc.com/docs/2141081/EcuFlash-Tutorial

or RomRaider:http://www.romraider.com/

Once you have your ECU Rom ID ie:A4SH----

Let me know and I can send you the XML so you or your tuner can open the Rom maps for adjustment/tuning

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This sounds a bit hectic to be honest .

I think it might be a better plan and safer plan to take the car into my dealer and get them to pull back the timing .

I know i sound like a wimp here but there are no safe tuners in my region of the world and it would be going out of my way to try get the car to run nicely so its a bit much to try and flash the ecu with new maps etc.

W/hat should i ask my dealer to use to pull back the timing.

I know nissan has a special computer they use for everything computer related including hicas and attessa bleeding its called a nissan consult .

So ultimately i want to take it to the dealer and be armed enough to tell them what tool is needed to pull back the timing etc.....

Thanks for the responses though great work.

Ps who here has had their timing altered already ?

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Right here is a little info.

I called the Dealer in soth africa they recon they can do the adjustment and pull the timing back 5 degrees?

So now here is the funny part the dealer says please call our head quarters ?

Call head quarters and then speak to a technical gentleman and he says you need something called a pac file ?

So he cant get access to this file in order to map the ecu because the car was never imported into south africa and subaru wont give him the pac file because the car was not supplied to them from subaru japan???/

So he says must find a way of getting this file so we can map the ecu from japan ?

What bull surely they can source locate and download this file from subaru japan ?

Am i wrong can someone advise what i should do or does some one have this file so i can give it to this so called dealer and service center that cant even help me LOL im killing myself with laughter how funny......

Me help the dealer fix my car lol

I should be working there.

Hope to hear from you all thanks for the info and input

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