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BF Issues


92LEGESI

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recently came up with these and was hoping too get sum advice with someone who has experience or can diagnose...

1 - after a drive from otahuhu to kura i check the engine and can hear a rattl ? its kinda like a steel bit getting thrown around somewhere but the noise is definetly coming from underneath, also when i rev to 2k theres a another more aggresive rattle coming from the top after i let go of the gas.

2 - either the rear brake or handbrake is engaging randomly or when i turn hard at low rev ? when revrsing out of my driveway i dont even have to brake as it stops by itself ? ie the brake engaging without me touching the pedal, but it mostly occurs at low revs/speed and worse when turning hard.

3 - a binding noise coming from the driveshaft area ( i can fel/ hear it below my ars) also when im turning, tyres sometimes screeech as they struggle to get traction. im narrowing this down to driveshft or gbox

-lifter tick ive tried the proma but tick still driving me nuts.. a workmate told me to re set the lifters or something with a feeler gauge ? but then again hes a nismo nut

some things that could be factors are..

-RF cv needs replacing but cv is stuck to axle ive tried beating it with a hammer but with no prevail..

-clutch is nearli gone

i work as an apprentice so im gonna take it in the garage and hoist it up and check the brakes,diff and everything related but just wanted advice first so i know what too look out for ?

hope its enough of a description lol

thanks

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1/The rattle could be anything from a BEB going to a loose exhaust sheild

2/sounds to me like your centre diff has seized,are you running different size tires on it OR new ones on one axles and old on the other...

3/as above

Lifter tick can only be fixed by having them cleaned and replaced,most additives wont clean out the little holes enough BUT you can try overfilling the oil by 1/2 a litre so as to increase your oil pressure,And know u cannot adjust them like your NISMO mate said, as they are hydraulic :)

The front CV do regularly get stuck in the hub, a trick u can try is to loosen of the nut a few turns then take it for a drive ( not far) it may help, other than that u will need to remove hub and press the joint out, when installing new one coat it in an antiseize compound.

Replace the clutch :)

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regarding the cv joint you could always remove the drive shaft and try to knock it off on the work bench and if that fails then try and knock off the inner cv and slide to boot and ties on that way. We do that sometimes at work.

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I wouldn't bother pissing around trying to separate the c/v from the drive shaft if it is really really stuck.

(have you removed the cir-clip inside the c/v?)

Just replace the whole drive shaft inner and outer c/vs as they are cheap enough from a wreckers, just re-grease and inspect before you reassemble and fit them. ;)

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Regarding number 2.

My Legacy does this too. I pull up to a red light and once the car is stopped, it doesn't roll.

My rears are very worn and my fronts still have 4-5mls of tread, is the tyre wear the real cause?

And, if I have't driven it for, say a week. When I first move it, the breaks squeal and they feel like they have seized on until I've about 50mtrs..?

Is this also related?

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 1989RS said:

regarding the cv joint you could always remove the drive shaft and try to knock it off on the work bench and if that fails then try and knock off the inner cv and slide to boot and ties on that way. We do that sometimes at work.

I believe he is trying to get the Outer CV out of the Hub :)

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 DRFVDR said:

1/The rattle could be anything from a BEB going to a loose exhaust sheild

2/sounds to me like your centre diff has seized,are you running different size tires on it OR new ones on one axles and old on the other...

3/as above

Lifter tick can only be fixed by having them cleaned and replaced,most additives wont clean out the little holes enough BUT you can try overfilling the oil by 1/2 a litre so as to increase your oil pressure,And know u cannot adjust them like your NISMO mate said, as they are hydraulic :)

The front CV do regularly get stuck in the hub, a trick u can try is to loosen of the nut a few turns then take it for a drive ( not far) it may help, other than that u will need to remove hub and press the joint out, when installing new one coat it in an antiseize compound.

Replace the clutch :)

1-the noise quietens down but speeds up wen i rev,

2-Yeah im running near new on the rear and mid-worn on the front, just imagine dropping a whole lotta marbles into a wooden bowl and thats pretty much the oise with vibration.

3-Sweet do you know what needs too be changed and what would be recommended while taking the heads off ? rocker gskts ? lifters ? etc

good advice thanks,

im on that ;)

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 666SubSpeed said:

I wouldn't bother pissing around trying to separate the c/v from the drive shaft if it is really really stuck.

(have you removed the cir-clip inside the c/v?)

Just replace the whole drive shaft inner and outer c/vs as they are cheap enough from a wreckers, just re-grease and inspect before you reassemble and fit them. ;)

Yep its really stuck, i took out the whole shaft and tried hammering it off, took it too my mech and he said it should have just popped off with a whack, i whacked pretty hard with no results.

ill go pick-a-part.... :)

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Shudder is a seized calliper at the rear, i took one calliper at a time and spun the hub till i found one was seized i reset the cylinder on the calliper and found it too spin better i then pumped brakes and it went back to normal so that callipers gonna get rebuilt,

rattle has dumbfounded me ? it only rattles like that after a long drive ?? i tried prying at H/shields and found nothing.. im gonna do an oil change soon and bang my sump out as its dented and see if anythings in there cos i swear it sounded like a metal piece was being flung around down there...

also front calliper is seized to the brake mount is there anyway to fix it ? or would it be cheaper to get it replaced....?

also would the rears from a RS Legacy 1995 BD5 bolt on to mine ? as there dirt cheap..

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The front caliper will be seized on the slider bolts.easily fixed

I am guessing the rear brakes are the same as long as they are single pots

and yes the centre diff should fit, u really need to compare GB codes though to be sure

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DRFVDR

yeah i tried but seems as the calliper is locked onto the slider and the sliders turning with calliper instead of being still and calliper sliding around it.

ill do a search cos i think theres two sizes ??

SOOPERSUBARU

is that cover hitting the flywheel a common problem with the model ?

its defint the centre diff, just wanting advice as what will fit straight in..

already got garage space and tools eh kinda on a budget so ill but everything and do it myself, thanks tho bro

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 92LEGESI said:

DRFVDR

yeah i tried but seems as the calliper is locked onto the slider and the sliders turning with calliper instead of being still and calliper sliding around it.

ill do a search cos i think theres two sizes ??

SOOPERSUBARU

is that cover hitting the flywheel a common problem with the model ?

its defint the centre diff, just wanting advice as what will fit straight in..

already got garage space and tools eh kinda on a budget so ill but everything and do it myself, thanks tho bro

That lower cover is fitted to all models. Sometimes,(usually after a clutch change this cover can be bent or disturbed and the flywheel touches it. Have seen the securing bolts come loose on this cover too.Worth a look! Its not easy too see, you may need to undo engine mounts and lift the engine a bit to have a good look.

Centre diff easy to change as mentioned by someone else. :)

Get a "new" caliper from pick a part. It's not easy to free up these sliders sometimes, If at all, esp if never lubricated and now rusted together!

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