Spluttering rs :(

[Guest]

Hey guys, I've got an 89 rs which I just upgraded the injectors from greys to yellows and added a remapped ecu off one of the members on here. It starts up fine and everything but when I'm just about to hit full boost or where I used to before which is 4k rpm it now starts spluttering. Engine check light stays on the code is coming out to be 16? Which doesn't correspond to anything? Only other upgrades are vf30 turbo and a full 3 inch turbo back exhaust? Ive got a minor leak from my downpipe but I dk t think this would cause this issue would have accidentally swapping the injector plugs around cause this? As j think I might have on one side :-/

Thanks in advance

Cheers muhammad

[Jakee]

It was doing that when I drove it yesterday man?

[Joker]

what afm? ecu?

[rex-leggy]

code 16 is injector number 3.

are you sure you haven't pinched a seal on the injector? ive done this before .

could be a bad injector tho.

[Guest]

 rex-leggy said:

code 16 is injector number 3.

are you sure you haven't pinched a seal on the injector? ive done this before .

could be a bad injector tho.

I'm pretty sure I got the ifs wrong way round I bloody hope lol

[Guest]

 Jakee said:

It was doing that when I drove it yesterday man?

It wasn't? Not the way it is now anyway

[Guest]

 JoKer said:

what afm? ecu?

Green afm with a chipped ecu to run yellows

[rex-leggy]

some of them run a purple afm to i think . either way you checked that its the correct one ?

theres a chart on there somewhere

[Guest]

 rex-leggy said:

some of them run a purple afm to i think . either way you checked that its the correct one ?

theres a chart on there somewhere

I bought the injectors off a dude on here that was off a v3 and the chipped ecu is cuddas old one I'll swap them around soon and see how it goes

[1989RS]

the same thing happened to me putting the yellows in for the first time pinched the middle o-ring it ran like crap take number 3 injector out and check the seals. Also try get some contact cleaner on the plug and on the injector terminals

[Guest]

 1989RS said:

the same thing happened to me putting the yellows in for the first time pinched the middle o-ring it ran like crap take number 3 injector out and check the seals. Also try get some contact cleaner on the plug and on the injector terminals

Ahhhh fuuuuuu!!!!! Lol I'm gonna swap plugs over and clean

Plugs and see if that sorts it out lol noob question which ones number 3?

[1989RS]

if you start the car let it idle then take the injector plugs off one by one the plug that you take off and makes no difference will be the one that is stuffing it up

[rex-leggy]

if its the seal you dont want to muck around ...... if the leak gets worst it can hydrolic your engine = not good.

and any left over fuel will seep down into your sump and fuck the oil .

cheek the injector first

Cyl #1......Right (pass) side front

Cyl #2......Left (driver) side front

Cyl #3......Right (pass) side rear

Cyl #4......Left (driver) side rear

[Guest]

 rex-leggy said:

if its the seal you dont want to muck around ...... if the leak gets worst it can hydrolic your engine = not good.

and any left over fuel will seep down into your sump and f*** the oil .

cheek the injector first

Cyl #1......Right (pass) side front

Cyl #2......Left (driver) side front

Cyl #3......Right (pass) side rear

Cyl #4......Left (driver) side rear

Oh shit... Ok I'll do that first. Wat would I be looking for in terms of how I can tell if it's not sealed properly

[CUDDAS]

i ran with green afm, on all three chipped ecu's running v3/4 yellows, re-map was a chipped for yellows ecu which flashed ALL the injector codes when running both grey 380's & v3/4 yellow 440's, drove & boosted fine, i had a slight miss hesitation around 6400rpm which has now gone since removing the afm (i have 4" turbo inlet, snorkel 4" K&N pod) which seemed to be upsetting afm up in the revs there nothing too major,

i had an innovative wideband meter available & plumbed in afr's were good , along with stand alone boost control & not quite factory mods

[Guest]

 CUDDAS said:

i ran with green afm, on all three chipped ecu's running v3/4 yellows, re-map was a chipped for yellows ecu which flashed ALL the injector codes when running both grey 380's & v3/4 yellow 440's, drove & boosted fine, i had a slight miss hesitation around 6400rpm which has now gone since removing the afm (i have 4" turbo inlet, snorkel 4" K&N pod) which seemed to be upsetting afm up in the revs there nothing too major,

i had an innovative wideband meter available & plumbed in afr's were good , along with stand alone boost control & not quite factory mods

So with your ecu you were still getting injector codes even though everything was sweet? Wat do u reckon spluttering could be if it's not injectors?

[rex-leggy]

still check them

[CUDDAS]

Yip id still check the injectors, as to spluttering not too sure, i also was not connected to the map sensor which i have to use now with the link ???

& i won't advise it to you, but that's how i rolled for years,

spark plugs/coil packs?

[Guest]

UPDATE: managed to suss out the injector problem. Plugged in old wrx ecu as I wanted to see if it would log the same code and no codes took it for a blat round the corner and the difference in power is amazing actually the power much more smoother and boost holding longer hey cuddas Wat were you boosting on that ecu

Btw the Spluttering has gone!! WINNING!!!

THINGS LEFT: reset remapped ecu and see difference

Thanks for all the help guys much appreciated

[CUDDAS]

I run 3 set points, sp1-14.3psi is my start up setting, sp2-19.0psi & sp3-21.6psi, usually set on sp2 but really just depends on what im upto, its only a push of a button but i have complete control over my boost & gate pressure's, boost sensitivity

& even the safety of over boost shut down.

part of what i had & yes i wasted a little money here & there meh...

with the remap it was fine on sp1 & in sp2 i would get to just at 6400rpm & have slight miss, it was also there with the modcontrol chip & safcII too but i ran that with out the map sensor like posted before -that got me around the boost cut 16.3psi & the considerably larger turbo probably wasnt helping as it pumps alot more air than the td05h,

the tdo5h was good on all set points without any missing issues with the modcontrol chip, the miss only turned up after adding the larger turbo,

the re-map ecu was sorced for me to run yellows which it did & so did the modcontrol chip along with the safcII which is what i originaly brought it to do, but hadn't tried the yellows as i wasn't sure how to set it up for them, so with a little help we had it sorted so it ran them fine so i ran with that (more gadgets )

so then went to v6 decapable yellows with rails with dash fittings welded which is where i had some issues with a couple of welded fittings misting fuel, so bit the bullet & just went to A/M v5/6 rails, i then had over fueling issues, & after replacing the injector O-rings, it was still there, so thought the injectors were alot bigger than i could control with re-map & modcontrol & safcII,

this is where i went to a v1/2 wrx possum link & again over fueling issues even when i borrowed a hand controller it wouldnt stabalise so purchased a RS possum link with hand control from known running car

plugged in started & noticed again over fueling, was then i found left hand fuel rail i had not bolted right down only very slightly but was enough to cause my issues sooo??????

this fixed my problem

maybe not yours but when you change stuff here & there alot, you just never know

[Guest]

 CUDDAS said:

I run 3 set points, sp1-14.3psi is my start up setting, sp2-19.0psi & sp3-21.6psi, usually set on sp2 but really just depends on what im upto, its only a push of a button but i have complete control over my boost & gate pressure's, boost sensitivity

& even the safety of over boost shut down.

part of what i had & yes i wasted a little money here & there meh...

with the remap it was fine on sp1 & in sp2 i would get to just at 6400rpm & have slight miss, it was also there with the modcontrol chip & safcII too but i ran that with out the map sensor like posted before -that got me around the boost cut 16.3psi & the considerably larger turbo probably wasnt helping as it pumps alot more air than the td05h,

the tdo5h was good on all set points without any missing issues with the modcontrol chip, the miss only turned up after adding the larger turbo,

the re-map ecu was sorced for me to run yellows which it did & so did the modcontrol chip along with the safcII which is what i originaly brought it to do, but hadn't tried the yellows as i wasn't sure how to set it up for them, so with a little help we had it sorted so it ran them fine so i ran with that (more gadgets )

so then went to v6 decapable yellows with rails with dash fittings welded which is where i had some issues with a couple of welded fittings misting fuel, so bit the bullet & just went to A/M v5/6 rails, i then had over fueling issues, & after replacing the injector O-rings, it was still there, so thought the injectors were alot bigger than i could control with re-map & modcontrol & safcII,

this is where i went to a v1/2 wrx possum link & again over fueling issues even when i borrowed a hand controller it wouldnt stabalise so purchased a RS possum link with hand control from known running car

plugged in started & noticed again over fueling, was then i found left hand fuel rail i had not bolted right down only very slightly but was enough to cause my issues sooo??????

this fixed my problem

maybe not yours but when you change stuff here & there alot, you just never know

Wow... So you used an ebc to control your boost? I'm just running the boost solenoid without any sort of boost control. I was boosting a solid 12 psi on the grey injectors but now it feels like it goes a lot harder. Still need to get the boost gauge in that to confirm. With the remapped was the standard boost raised at all?

[CUDDAS]

I'd hope so but couldn't tell you about std boost figures as i've been using a turbosmart eboost for 7+ years now

[Guest]

UPDATE: so I reset my chipped ecu but it still pulls out the same code after a few minutes. My question now is why does the chipped ecu pick up these codes whereas my wrx one doesn't? This is quite confusing to me :-/

Cheers Muhammad