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Thoughts on puk clutch for 5sp?


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I need to do my clutch and can get a new puk clutch cheap just not sure if they break 5sp boxes or not. Anyone had a bad experience? I know heavy duty will cover powerwise what Im after just not much $ difference between puk and hd. I just dont want something that will slip with quick/flat shifting. I know teznu went through a few gearboxes with exedy h/d so guessing puk would be worse.

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dont do it, you'll definatly end up breaking a 5 speed if you intend on launching it, just overkill, factory clutches handle a big amount of power.

I ended up going with a xtreme heavy duty clutch and matched 6kg lightweight chromolly flywheel, they use a factory daiken (DK) stamped pressure plate and are about 20% more clamp pressure than a factory sti one.....as a bonus the pressure plate is purple show you can flash cool photos around message boards ;D ;D

smallengine.jpg

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Its the quick shifting that kills it. It just slips on change but is fine when driving normally. Mind you its probably the clutch from factory...

I had a exedy brass button im my libero and loved it. Pain in the arse in traffic though.

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 evowrx said:

Its the quick shifting that kills it. It just slips on change but is fine when driving normally. Mind you its probably the clutch from factory...

I had a exedy brass button im my libero and loved it. Pain in the arse in traffic though.

yip I hate mine (exeedy H/D & brass button puck) in traffic, at intersections, down changing needs to be bliped on the throttle especially into thrid/second/first with a light flywheel or it feels like stabbing the brake pedal & reversing.

does its job though either on or off :)

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  • 3 months later...

4.5 kg chromoly fw

exedy sprung centre 4 puk and race cover

loves it

mind you i know how to drive and dont do anything that would smash the box . well i do helis but with the hand brake

and on a launch it keeps traction untill car has moved about a car length then spins the wheels as clutch is fully out and boost is biulding

but im led to believe ra gearboxes tend to put up with more of a hiding . maybe due to different teeth counts or better steel

just dont side step the clutch pedal and itll be mint .

driving like a retard breaks stuff . not puk ckutches

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I\'m running a 6puk, sprung, 2100lb pressure plate, with chro mo 5.5kg flywheel and its sweet. I have killed one 5 speed but unsure if that contributed. Flat shifting will kill syncros, and boxes if you are to abusive. Puk clutches will also wear quicker from what some guys on here have found, but I guess each to their own. For me im glad I went this route, others may not.

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 thorpy said:

On my new setup im running a stock replacement 230mm exedy , previously ran a 225mm with minimal slip on 5000rpm launches.

Id much rather have the clutch as a weak link than be replacing gearboxes ect.

I think that answers my question too as i run more or less the same car as you, thanks thorpy ;D

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I just ordered a sti clutch plate and pressure plate today. Aftermarket spiggot and thrust bearings. Total cost $410ish shipped. I was going to get an autoclutch but I rung him back today to recheck pricing from about a month ago and he decided to inflate them after i told him what he had said. He was a bit of a dick to be honest so I thought fuck it for the amount Im going to drive it in anger and how well the standard non sti one held up to abuse the uprated sti one was a good option. Cant remember how much they uprate them now i think it was 20-30% above stock sti. Ichi ban on here reckoned sti would hold to 240kw atw so Im going with that as doesnt get launched around to often just driven sedately.

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