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Part 2: Changing REAR rotors / calipers


funkytown
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Swapping Brakes on Rear hubs

For the purposes of this we will assume you have the wrong rotor / caliper on the correct hub so need to swap the components over. (fwiw 2pot rears and brembo rears use the same mount point)

Assumed is that you have used the previous resource (yet to be written) to identify which hubs you require and have the correct set in front of you.

Using the ‘removal of hub’ how to at this point we assume you have a complete hub removed from the car and sitting on the bench to work on.

If by chance you have to correct hubs already on your car this equally applies and can be done with the hub in place, its just more of a pain.

STEP 1 – Removal old caliper

On the back of the hub undo the two caliper mount bolts. (photo here) Slide the capiler off the rotor, sometimes this is a little tricky if the rotor is lipped (worn). Be careful of brake fluid as this leaks out and is messy.

STEP 2 – Removal of rotor

On the front of the face of the rotor note the two holes, This accepts an m6 thread. Winding in x2 m6 bolts, one in each hole will force the rotor of the hub. Most often this is very tight / hard and more often than not it ruins the bolt thread as it pushes against the inside of the hub. As you wind each in at the same height the rotor will push off the hand brake shoe and eventually the rotor will pop off by hand. Sometimes however the handbrake shoes are also lipped on the inside (you can’t see this till the rotor is off) so you need to loosen off the shoes. Do this BEFORE using the m6 bolts to push the rotor off. To do this turn the hub over and remove the bung (photo here). In here there is a cog you can wind over with a flat blade screwdriver, and coarsely adjusts the handbrake shoe position. If you fail to loosen this off prior to rotor removal you risk damaging the shoe pads and have to be replaced (brake pad material).

Repeat for hub #2. You have two bare rotors (but correct type sitting in front of you for 2pot rears).

(photo here)

STEP 3 – Stone Guard modification

Most often but depending on which hub you have, going to two pot rears (or brembo rears) the new rotors are larger diameter than what you previously had. This mean the stone guard will touch the rotor. To remedy this.. Take a FBH and hit the stone guard back repeatedly until it doesn’t hit. Keep it close to where the rotor will be those to retain its function (photo here). Use a large flat blade at the end and you can leaver the guard if it still touches.

STEP 4 – Install Rotor

Carefully place new rotor aligned over wheel studs and slide onto hub. The coarse adjustment should be left as is so the rotor slides over the handbrake shoe without ruining it. Select 2 wheel nuts and wind these down onto two opposite wheel studs and this will seat the rotor completely down on the hub. (photo here) Removal wheel nuts.

STEP 5 – Install Caliper

MAKE SURE WHEN YOU DO THIS YOU HAVE THE BLEED NIPPLE ON THE CALIPER FACING UP… OTHERWISE YOU WILL NEVER BLEED THE AIR OUT.

If you have replaced with new pads at this stage, often you will need to push these back into the caliper enough to push it over the rotor. Chose which ever method you prefer. I use a large pair of polly grips flat carefully against the pad outside of caliper and squeeze gently. (photo here).

Insert the caliper over the rotor and align to bolt holes and tighten to hub mount.

Repeat for hub #2 and they are ready to reinstall in the car.

If the hubs were correct and you did this with the hubs on the car then reattach the brake lines and fill up the brake reservoir with appropriate fluid and start rebleeding from which ever corner suits you best. I start from the back first, moving to the front but the factory manual states a different order

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