Destroyed Diff

[runrabbit]

Well, i managed to kill my diff this morning. :\'( running off-set diameter tyres - like an idiot.

At the moment its making noises only when the throttle is applied. And mainly in 3rd, 4th, 5th from 70km/h up.

Is there anyway to salvage this? Replace the diff oil, if thats been cooked? Or is it terminal?

Apparently ~$1100 + labour to replace.

Lesson learnt and now its time to pay up :

[Guest]

Secondhand diff $50-100 do it yourself just need a jack and coupla tools. Just the rear diff making noises?

Was just thinking Ive seen about 5 subys in whangarei this week running odd sizes. I pucker my arse and keep driving shaking my head.

[lachlan]

which diff / which tires are mis matched ?

[runrabbit]

I put the larger tyres on the rear. they were off a Forester 60/R16. Had my wheels on the front 45/R17. Car is 98 GC8.

I\'m unsure if the noises are from the center or rear diff. I think its coming from the front end. Hard to tell.

[DRFVDR]

yup cooked centre viscous coupling/diff just replace it

ALWAYS run the same rolling diametre front and rear.

[Guest]

I got a complete phase 1 upgrade to swap in if youre phase 2. Cheap $80+shipping pm me if keen.

[runrabbit]

Noise is from the front - and can feel it coming through the gear stick too.

agree with the Borg - she\'s cooked.

have been looking at this site to school myself as a result of this mornings faux-pas

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/center-diffs-how-replace-them-46979/

evowrx - I\'ll get back to you. Above site says generally Phase 1 and 2 not interchangeable though. Its a \'98, should be a P1, tho its on the cusp. I\'m in Auckland.

Quote came from Highbrook Automotive - will be checking in with them again on Monday.

[runrabbit]

sounds a lot like this. 0:23 - 1:05

[Koom]

P1 and P2 are interchangeable as long as you swap the housing along with the diff. The P1 diff is just a tiny bit too big to fit inside the P2 housing (angle grinder can make them fit).

[jost]

If you plan on giving it a hard time change the entire rear end to a phase 1, they are more forgiving (and cheaper)

[Guest]

I have the complete conversion with shafts/housings everything that bolts onto the front housings. It should be going in my P2 box but coin is bit more of a priority.

gazzy has an awesome write up with pics on here of conversion iirc. Swapping the diffs is as easy as unbolting it all then bolting it back up the opposite way.

How many bolts on the bellhousing or number of box? Starter should have a stud and a bolt if P1 and 2 bolts if P2.

[Jesus]

 evowrx said:

Starter should have a stud and a bolt if P1 and 2 bolts if P2.

Bad info there. Some 99-2001 WRX boxes had a stud for the starter and were still 8bolt pattern. As for P1 and P2 strengths, theyre both shit.

[Guest]

Point taken - neither my forester or v5 had a stud was basing it loosely on that and what everyone else has said.

Rick said its worth changing p2 to p1 on here somewhere.

[jost]

 jesus']

[quote name='evowrx said:

Starter should have a stud and a bolt if P1 and 2 bolts if P2.

/quote]

Bad info there. Some 99-2001 WRX boxes had a stud for the starter and were still 8bolt pattern. As for P1 and P2 strengths, theyre both s***.

Yeah both can be a bit weak but cheaper to keep replacing phase 1 diffs rather than phase 2 ones.