STUCK Overheating issue

[Guest]

Should be V5/6 or V3/4 pending on what yours is. Is coil pack in centre of mani or offset?

Actually I see that reliable online source wiki says its 8.0:1 which would be closer to sti comp ratio but it also says its COP which I doubt it ever was in the JDM/NZDM market. So if you got an EJ205 out of a V7 non sti without avcs and bolted you manifolds on it would likely be fine but unsure how cams compare to what your ecu expects.

Talk to fbssub1 on here.

[scottharvey]

Its offset I think its a v5 I just wanna get a v7 block and just put my intake n turbo exhaust etc on it

[Guest]

Shortblock is minus heads, longblock includes heads. V7- with avcs will require serious rewiring and an ecu to run it or leave it disconnected.

If your heads arent warped it would be a cheap repair job. Well cheaper than a new longblock Id say unless you find a cheap deal. Engines got to come out regardless.

[scottharvey]

Yeah or im looking at a v3 ra long block will my stuff bolt up

[Guest]

Nope. If offset coil pack you need V5-. Try get the comp similar high comp engine with low comp ecu can cause det.

Head gaskets $200 pair genuine.

Head bolts -$100 iirc sta.

Coolant $20odd

Oil $50odd

Filter $12

All the above you can do yourself and obviously add the engine reco lads time to check heads and skim if required.

Scottspeed said if you dont run coolant for the first 100km you wil never blow another head gasket. Well Im guessing if your radiator split or something you would but yea Id listen to him.

[funkytown]

if its not obvious different heads have different patterns your inlet manifold mounts too.. only 5/6 have the right pattern (and non AVCS) that your manfilold will bolt too..

then there is the issue of the compression ratio as mentioned above..

[Guest]

Some V7 non sti had no avcs which may also be an option pending on comp.

[scottharvey]

 evowrx said:

Nope. If offset coil pack you need V5-. Try get the comp similar high comp engine with low comp ecu can cause det.

Head gaskets $200 pair genuine.

Head bolts -$100 iirc sta.

Coolant $20odd

Oil $50odd

Filter $12

All the above you can do yourself and obviously add the engine reco lads time to check heads and skim if required.

Scottspeed said if you dont run coolant for the first 100km you wil never blow another head gasket. Well Im guessing if your radiator split or something you would but yea Id listen to him.

Ok its just time consuming pulling motor apart id rather just buy fresh or would a v7 work with mine

[scottharvey]

One question would my bee R be the cause of any of my overheating problems???

[Guest]

Legend a forester with a bee r lol.

Pulling down/assembling will take a weekend but need to get heads checked on a week day anyway. Save you 1k+ if youre confident.

[scottharvey]

Do I need to take the motor out

[Guest]

I would suggest you do its piss easy to pull out.

[funkytown]

 scottharvey said:

Do I need to take the motor out

if you need to ask this - it would appear to me you dont know much about Subarus or engines, i dont think you should be attempting any part of this solo.

[scottharvey]

I know a bit about motors just not subys at the minute I rebuilt my BMW motor and I\'ve got mates that have had some properly built ejs

[funkytown]

not meant to be offensive, just hoping you get a good outcome.

[scottharvey]

Nah none taken any opinion is better than no opinion lol

[Guest]

Start with getting the code off the ecu and finding out what comp ratio you have then work on getting an engine that is that comp ratio. Or drop your engine out and fix with genuine head gaskets.

[scottharvey]

Ok how do I find out my comp ratio.

[scottharvey]

ok so i tried bleeding the system i bled it for 20-30 mins jacked up and fair few bubbles came out and the fans cycled four times and i then took for a slow drive and was holding temp well until i went and stopped to get gas up the road and it climbed up to 3/4. But when i turn a corner it goes down until you straighten the car up again and shaking the car on the road makes it go down as well????? any ideas????

[scottharvey]

I took rad out and got it unblocked 2/3 of it was blocked so had all my hope in it being that so put it back in bled it and then drove and it was fine but then just shot up if I turn it off roll and then turn it on it will go down to running temp n then be fine and then go up n then drop quick but it gets hot because you can hear it boiling in the system. Pleeease help

[CUDDAS]

 CUDDAS said:

Did you put a new thermostat in or just check the old one?

Possibly semi blocked radiator, sticky thermostat or radiator cap that\'s lost its tension/seal

id start with the latter & go from there

well that\'s the radiator done, now id put in a new thermostat & radiator cap

[scottharvey]

I have done cap and I have taken thermostat out and tested it and that works

[lachlan]

does this have the small line from the top of the drivers side end tank back to where the rad cap is ?

not the over flow from the rad cap

my bg5 has one and it was blocked so it would always get a massive air lock where the top hose goes to the rad as its a high point .

if it has this line take it off and make sure it flows /

if it doesnt check if the join from the top hose to rad gets hot all the way around . all of the hose and end tank should be too hot to keep your hand on once the car is warm

[scottharvey]

It has two lines off the reservoir one goes to the top of the cap and other goes to overflow bottle

[scottharvey]

Is there anyone in Auckland that can come n have a look tomorrow cause I am really puzzled