more power for DXROLLA V2 STI RA

[DXROLLA]

Sorry to drag the power thing up AGAIN but im a bit lost in what i should do with my engine. Car is a V2 wrx sti ra. Power i would like minimum of 350hp at the wheels. What i am thinking is forged closed deck block. Can the standard heads/cams handle that power. I was thinking of giving them a slight tickle up just a minor port and polish and some nice street cams from Kelfords do the valve springs as well. Turbo wise is the standard TD05 up to the task? Injectors a set of yellow tops? Link ecu, walbro intank pump, twisted turbo, standard top mount or am i forced to go front mount?

Really need to make a plan so i can start buying stuff

[Guest]

V7 Sti block 1.5k new or FFS/FBS forged shortie 2.5k new, stock V3/4 sti heads and intake mani, G4, walbro, injectors bigger than 565cc pinks, silicon intake/exhaust, stock mount TD06/5 hybrid or similar, walbro, FMIC or V7- sti tmic.

Job done headwork not reqd.

[DXROLLA]

Cheers, so no real point playing with my motor better to just stash it in the shed.

[Guest]

Thats my opinion. Id get a G4 and tune what you have with yellows/walbro - 200-220kw atw. Start collecting and have a fun car to drive in the mean time.

[DXROLLA]

The engine is getting a bit tired which is why im taking it out for either a rebuild or a forged build as above, by the sounds of it a late model engine setup like you said is the way to go. But i will be keeping all the standard bits so one day i could take it back to standard if i ever wanted. Huge power isn\'t really my goal, i really just want to take advantage of what the car is already good at, being the light weight RA model i want to keep it as close to original as possible but still make it go as good as it can.

Which is why i am a bit stuck on what i should do, do i just go for a standard rebuild with a nice forged setup and try and make it breath the best i can by doing the heads ect, but than if i muck around with that the money i will spend is probably the same as you mentioned and i will be getting less power ???

The idea i have in my head is a light weight setup that could rival the likes of a nicely tuned type r civic or the likes, for the nice twisty roads/sealed hill climbs ect. Does that make sense?? ;D

[Guest]

Sorry what do you mean less power? Dont waste your time with cams/fancy heads for 260kw atw. Proven time over that V7 sti shorties can make 300kw atw reliably (debatable but proven) and early sti heads v3-6 make 300kw atw. Sti heads can be had for $200, blocks as above 1.5-2.5k, head gaskets $200, timing $600, everything else you will need either way. Cams and springs are big $$$ for what gain at 250kw.

Throw a new comp wheel into your TD05 and keep original mani then you could get some V5/6 rails and the side feed blue legacy 550cc injectors and run them with a 1.7:1 reg or 1:1 reg with decapped yellows. I got 227kw using the 1.7:1 approach with 440cc yellows. Would have to sit down with a calculator but would see you around 250kw atw 80%ish d/c by my exp.

[DXROLLA]

Sweet sounds good, cheers for the advice

[Guest]

Oh btw Ive 2 left rails w/o reg to suit those 550cc side feeds that would give you a tidy stock appearing split rail set up on V1/2 mani if you go that way.

[DXROLLA]

Cheers will keep that in mind, will start doing some research and planning on what ill need. List so far would be:

1. V7 short block

2. V3/4 heads

3. V7 intake and intercooler? Could i just get the whole v7 setup including rails injectors ect to make it a bit easier? Theres seems to be a few on trade me

4. Rebuild standard tdo5/6 hybrid setup

5. Walbro intank pump

6. G4 link ecu

7. All associated gaskets, timing belt/pumps ect

8. All new hoses

[Timmah]

 DXROLLA said:

Cheers will keep that in mind, will start doing some research and planning on what ill need. List so far would be:

1. V7 short block

2. V3/4 heads

3. V7 intake and intercooler? Could i just get the whole v7 setup including rails injectors ect to make it a bit easier? Theres seems to be a few on trade me

4. Rebuild standard tdo5/6 hybrid setup

5. Walbro intank pump

6. G4 link ecu

7. All associated gaskets, timing belt/pumps ect

8. All new hoses

Why not v7 sti heads + the bits for AVCS? Or just keeping things down?

[DXROLLA]

Well i was considering that aswell, there are a couple of complete v7 sti engines around, buy one of them, stock rebuild and turbo link g4? Seems easy lol

[Guest]

Remember head/intake bolt pattern changes with phase 2. V5- compatible and -V4 compatible.

Hit steve up on FB probably buy another TD05 and get it done while you build everything else up as he takes a while as one hell of a backlog. Be cheap and genuine not a chingchingdingaling job/parts.

V7 sti tmic will be a cunt to fit but will make it look a helluva lot more original. I would make it fit but then you need the scoop to suit and starts to take away from the whole early RA concept. I would probably just max the TD05 with yellows/blues will make good power still and not need to go ott with tmic/fmic. Kamineko has a pic of late tmic on V1/2.

 DXROLLA said:

Cheers will keep that in mind, will start doing some research and planning on what ill need. List so far would be:

1. V7 sti short block

2. V3/4 sti heads

3. V7 sti intercooler with shroud and scoop

4. Rebuild standard tdo5/6 hybrid setup

5. Walbro intank pump

6. G4 link ecu + IAT + Boost solenoid

7. All associated gaskets, timing belt/pumps ect

8. All new hoses

Run the later head gaskets to keep your comp up around 8.5:1 I think to make it more spirited off boost. Late heads with avcs etc is a bit of wiring and takes away from what youre after.

[DXROLLA]

Hmmm a lot to think about. Is it possible to run a nice flipped manifold and front mount with out having to cut a whole lot up?

[gotasuby]

Why not use the v2 sti Ra heads?

They are shim under and quite special flow and rpm wise

[DXROLLA]

I was thinking that, i thought they were shim under, would save some $ being able to use my heads just get them cleaned up and skimmed.

[tydon]

 gotasuby said:

Why not use the v2 sti Ra heads?

They are shim under and quite special flow and rpm wise

i thought v2 sti ra where solid shim and under shim was v3+

[loganrasti]

There shim under bucket but there a top hat style shim not like the v3+ shims

[DXROLLA]

So many shims ;D Was thinking again for the money i would have to spend buying a new block i could forge my block, well close to it, if i did that whats the advantage to running a v7 block are they still stronger?

[gotasuby]

You should have a closed deck so already have stronger block than v7

[Guest]

Always thought V1/2 sti/non were shim over but no real world idea good to know. I was meaning if dropping in a V7 sti shortblock its easy as a bolt in option. If pulling it apart better off running your CD block like gotasuby says. If anyone knows he does.

Trade off between rear or centre thrust. Not sure if thats as big a deal as people say it is.

[DXROLLA]

Yeah its a closed deck block, would a standard rebuild handle what im after? By standard i mean STI bits so factory forged pistons? Are the rods up to task? Set of race bearings, arp studs ect. If everything is ok inside hopefully i could just go for a set of rings and bearings?

[Koom]

Rods and Pistons are cheap out of the states and will be a lot stronger than the factory rods (rod bolts).

I\'d just rebuild your engine with aftermarket rods and pistons, and bolt on a bigger turbo (with Link G4 and injectors etc) rather than going down the track of buying a whole new engine. Unless you could sell off your complete engine and put that towards buying a V7 Longblock. But there\'s all the wiring issues of going to the newer motor which makes using the original stuff much easier.

[Guest]

Lachlan has a US site he quotes with seriously cheap rebuild sets. Had it in my favorites but think someone might have deleted it... He can quote it raceengineering? or something.

[DXROLLA]

 Koom said:

Rods and Pistons are cheap out of the states and will be a lot stronger than the factory rods (rod bolts).

I\'d just rebuild your engine with aftermarket rods and pistons, and bolt on a bigger turbo (with Link G4 and injectors etc) rather than going down the track of buying a whole new engine. Unless you could sell off your complete engine and put that towards buying a V7 Longblock. But there\'s all the wiring issues of going to the newer motor which makes using the original stuff much easier.

Yeah this would be my first choice as i would like to keep the orignal bits as much as possible. Only thing it looks like im going to have to do is maybe run a front mount, and if i do this i want to flip the manifold which by the sounds of it the v2 ones you can just turn around. Next issue will be getting the oil problems sorted, so a baffled sump is deffinitly on the cards and i will talk to RDL about what mods they could do to the block (if any) to help with that. As i will hopefully get them to put the engine togeather for me as i dont have the time or all the wright tools to do it properly. If only money grew on trees!! ;D

[DXROLLA]

Bit of an update for this thread.

Heres where i am at now:

Factory rebuild complete, block already had forged pistons in it and they measure up good so re used them.

ARP Rod bolts and new head bolts.

All new gaskets through out.

Valve springs have been shimmed to allow for more boooost. (was told 25-26psi by builder)

Head cleaned up and checked.

Factory TD05 rebuilt by Fred Hicks who said it has the biggest intake or exhaust wheel you can get in one, cant remember which one though.

Full exhaust.

250t headers heat wraped.

Put it on the dyno after run in, made 193kw with boost issues, which i assume is because its flowing alot more now because of the exhaust? Ecu and injectors couldnt handle it.

What should be the next step?

Ultimately would love a Link g4 and it clearly needs new injectors (still running factory gray ones which were cleaned and flow tested before being re installed)

Front mount intercooler?

Ive bought some flexi hose to make up a cold air intake from the bumper.