Car won't start

[Guest]

Got home (drive a Suzuki Swift to work and back(sweet little cars)), into the garage I go, fire her up, no troubles. About 10 seconds later, she dies. Weird I thought. I try to start her up again, no game.

I thought a video would be a tad easier to aid me in explaining what\'s happening;

Only thing I can pick up on is that when turning ignition on previously, it would have an electrical sound like something priming for a second or two. This has now gone and has been replaced with a tick or two coming from the AFM/MAF area.

Ideas?

[czar loc]

Fuel pump is the noise your talkin about, take the tank lid off and put your ear to it and get someone to turn ignition on, no noise= pump not gettin power/not working

[Roo]

Sounds like dead pump

[sti555]

take fuel feed hose off fuel filter and turn key,if fuel coming out of hose then it not the fuel pump.a wise friend showed me that one

[tebbyj]

 sti555 said:

take fuel feed hose off fuel filter and turn key,if fuel coming out of hose then it not the fuel pump.a wise friend showed me that one

+1 but be careful because if it isn\'t the fuel pump fuel will piss everywhere, so use a bottle.

Fuel lines should be under pressure so if you can take one off and little/no fuel squirts out then its a sign you\'ve either got no gas in the tank or a bung pump.

[Guest]

Thanks heaps for your prompt replies guys - Love this forum. Heading around to mates for some beers to relax, will look at it again tomorrow. Cbf right now.

But I did what you said, turned it over & no fuel feeding through.

Is this the right line to remove & test? Hope so :-\

If so, looks like it\'s time for a new fuel pump.!\\!

[tebbyj]

Looks like the right line to me. Yep new fuel pump time!

[czar loc]

Yup, pump time

[Guest]

Wanna know the most annoying thing? I recently got it replaced. Checked my receipts, August 26th. Pretty pissed but I\'ll call them tomorrow and tell them what\'s up.

So. Recommended replacements? Haha. Am thinking about putting in a Mines Stage 2 ECU so maybe a Walbro 255lph?

Once again, cheers guys. Massive help

[kamineko]

pump or power to the pump at fault?

[Rosssub]

 kamineko said:

pump or power to the pump at fault?

+1 maybe pump power, weird it was running fine then died. Would make me suspect fuse or power feed/relay fault. Connect a test lamp or multi meter to your pump and see if it\'s getting power when ignition is switched on.

[czar loc]

As above, when I had mine die on me it was a progressive thing over a day and didnt suddenly stop, I would check the power before sorting out a new pump especially if it isn\'t that old

[Guest]

Alrighty. Cheers guys. Will give this a check when I can.

Fuse is a possibility then? Is the pump located under the rear seat squabs?

[ADIKT]

 bnneie said:

Alrighty. Cheers guys. Will give this a check when I can.

Fuse is a possibility then? Is the pump located under the rear seat squabs?

pump assembly/access will be behind rear seats. Will need to pull up carpet in boot to see it.

[Roo]

Yeah the fact that it started and ran then died sounds like it was running on residual pressure in the system?

[kamineko]

residual fuel pressure (to allow engine running) will last all of about 2 seconds on a suby. a dodgy relay/connection at the fuel pump plug could cause the pump to run poorly then give up.

its hard to diag over the net. you need to check the electrical system to the pump, the pump, and after pump removal the tank for contamination. just use a torch. it should be pretty clean.

usually is the pump at fault but i suggest electrical issue due to recent pump replacement. but hey, you won\'t know what pump they put in until you remove it. when you do, post up the numbers on it. what did the receipt say?

some testing help since i have a moment to type

the under seat pump/gauge plug can burn out - when you inspect it the larger wires will be the 12V to the pump. you should be able to test the same voltage through both sides of the plug. remember it will only be live for a moment to prime with key on IGN so you\'ll need a helper to twist the key on and off while you test

then check for the same voltage at the tank end of the plug

then check for a resistance reading over the pump itself. it should be something other than nothing lol

remove the lid on the right side about the fuel tank. CLEAN the dirt away. use a vacuum cleaner if you can. remove the pipes, then the pump assy should come out some some wiggling.

while the pumps it out of the tank you can connect it directly to 12V and see how it operates. sometimes they still whir a bit with no fuel pressure but if it sounds constant then have a good look at the wires going directly to that

no luck? time for a new pump.

appendix I

i run a walbro 255 in my track impreza. the factory underseat connection and wiring got HOT. its a common suggestion to chuck in an aftermarket pump, but that extra capacity has to come from somewhere and the factory wiring (at least on the early GC) simply isn\'t enough to carry the extra current. i imagine more problems have come about from an uprated pump on factory wiring than most expect.

appendix II

if a walbro is cheaper and you\'re going to get it anyway, (i wouldn\'t mock you even considering apendix I) then carefully transfer the original pickup sock to the new pump as its longer. oh i have a post on this somewhere errr

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,25974.msg362219.html#msg362219 wow that old

[Guest]

 Roo']

Yeah the fact that it started and ran then died sounds like it was running on residual pressure in the system?

More than likely, yes.

[quote name='kamineko said:

residual fuel pressure (to allow engine running) will last all of about 2 seconds on a suby. a dodgy relay/connection at the fuel pump plug could cause the pump to run poorly then give up.

its hard to diag over the net. you need to check the electrical system to the pump, the pump, and after pump removal the tank for contamination. just use a torch. it should be pretty clean.

usually is the pump at fault but i suggest electrical issue due to recent pump replacement. but hey, you won\'t know what pump they put in until you remove it. when you do, post up the numbers on it. what did the receipt say?

some testing help since i have a moment to type

the under seat pump/gauge plug can burn out - when you inspect it the larger wires will be the 12V to the pump. you should be able to test the same voltage through both sides of the plug. remember it will only be live for a moment to prime with key on IGN so you\'ll need a helper to twist the key on and off while you test

then check for the same voltage at the tank end of the plug

then check for a resistance reading over the pump itself. it should be something other than nothing lol

remove the lid on the right side about the fuel tank. CLEAN the dirt away. use a vacuum cleaner if you can. remove the pipes, then the pump assy should come out some some wiggling.

while the pumps it out of the tank you can connect it directly to 12V and see how it operates. sometimes they still whir a bit with no fuel pressure but if it sounds constant then have a good look at the wires going directly to that

no luck? time for a new pump.

appendix I

i run a walbro 255 in my track impreza. the factory underseat connection and wiring got HOT. its a common suggestion to chuck in an aftermarket pump, but that extra capacity has to come from somewhere and the factory wiring (at least on the early GC) simply isn\'t enough to carry the extra current. i imagine more problems have come about from an uprated pump on factory wiring than most expect.

appendix II

if a walbro is cheaper and you\'re going to get it anyway, (i wouldn\'t mock you even considering apendix I) then carefully transfer the original pickup sock to the new pump as its longer. oh i have a post on this somewhere errr

url]http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,25974.msg362219.html#msg362219[/url] wow that old

Thanks a lot for this mate, good insight. That post also.

The situation I have now though;

It was replaced 6 months ago at PSM in Ellerslie, (not too sure what brand pump) car is in Clarks Beach (40 mins from Ellerslie), I don\'t have a multimeter to be able to check power etc, but want this fixed ASAP.

It is under warranty, but I also want to replace it with a higher flow pump.

What do you guys recommend I do? :-\

[Roo]

Warranty won\'t buy you a high flow pump. Just put the high flow in now since you were going to anyway. Sort it out atter that if it still doesn\'t go. May as well do everything now and know you don\'t need to worry again

[Guest]

 Roo said:

Warranty won\'t buy you a high flow pump. Just put the high flow in now since you were going to anyway. Sort it out atter that if it still doesn\'t go. May as well do everything now and know you don\'t need to worry again

Yeah, I guess so. Seems like such a waste of a warranty but meh, I\'m going to have a huge nightmare getting the car to the garage so atleast that will be avoided.

PS; Can somebody please give me the exact model number for the pump I\'m going to need in my \'94 BG5? That\'d be a huge help. Also, should I go through Pro wholesalers on here to purchase from?

[Rosssub]

 bnneie']

[quote name='Roo said:

Warranty won\'t buy you a high flow pump. Just put the high flow in now since you were going to anyway. Sort it out atter that if it still doesn\'t go. May as well do everything now and know you don\'t need to worry again

/quote]

Yeah, I guess so. Seems like such a waste of a warranty but meh, I\'m going to have a huge nightmare getting the car to the garage so atleast that will be avoided.

Pull a Light Bulb out or get a spare, some speaker wire and make yourself a 12v Test Lamp. Connected to Pump Power Feed, bulb should flash at ignition on.

[Guest]

 Rosssub']

[quote name='Roo said:

Warranty won\'t buy you a high flow pump. Just put the high flow in now since you were going to anyway. Sort it out atter that if it still doesn\'t go. May as well do everything now and know you don\'t need to worry again

/quote]

Yeah, I guess so. Seems like such a waste of a warranty but meh, I\'m going to have a huge nightmare getting the car to the garage so atleast that will be avoided.

Pull a Light Bulb out or get a spare, some speaker wire and make yourself a 12v Test Lamp. Connected to Pump Power Feed, bulb should flash at ignition on.

Good idea. So if it does, it\'s the pump, if not, it\'s the power source?

[Rosssub]

Yip, if the Bulb lights up, then the Power Feed is fine/Pump is dead.

If no light, then relay/fuse/wiring fault.

[kamineko]

 Rosssub said:

Yip, if the Bulb lights up, then the Power Feed is fine/Pump is dead.

If no light, then relay/fuse/wiring fault.

i disagree. the bulb is a good indication but won\'t tell you what voltage you are dropping before the bulb i.e. 6V might still light the bulb, but thats not really fine.

if OP doesn\'t have the tools then best to find someone that does, and have it diagnosed properly to save more mucking around

[Roo]

For things like this it\'s best to use a 55w bulb to check powers/earths. Need to put it under more load than a test light.

Also it\'s very obvious if there\'s 6v compared to 12v when looking at how bright the bulb glows

[Guest]

Pump is not priming.

Is anybody able to identify the fuse & relay for the pump?