Major EJ20R problems

[jmz]

Hey guys. Posting here because I'm at a bit of a loose end.

I've got a 1996 Legacy GT BG5, repowered with an EJ20R. When it got it in February, it had just been rebuilt (bearings, rings, head gasket, planed blocks/heads, seals, cam belt, idlers, water pump) with 250K on the chassis.

Shortly after getting it, started to encounter overheating problems. Pushing coolant out the overflow, boiling coolant, occasionally drops of coolant around the LH head.

Gone through a rigmarole with fans, temperature sensor, thermostat (replaced), without solving the problem. Cooked a VF18 primary in the meantime, which has since been replaced. Passed a TK check and a cooling system pressurisation test.

Recent symptoms:

-smokes on secondary boost

-voids, gurgles, haven't been able to purge, sometimes boiling coolant

-weird gases in the overflow tank, but I'm not expert enough to tell what they are

-oil seems normal, no residue

Took a road trip in the weekend. Was overheating up hills, until I discovered that keeping the revs over 3500 stopped this from happening. Possible flow issue, or extra pump speed helping to overcome voids? Unfortunately didn't stop the loss of coolant, and had lost a good litre on the way back. To top that all off, I was showing these problems to a workmate today, when after giving it a squirt to 6K RPM, started dripping water from the exhaust and idling roughly, choking when blipping the accelerator. After that, it will not start at all.

How fornicated am I?

[Marky]

Reasonably

I'd be doubting the validity of that rebuild

[jmz]

That would be a big call, the previous owner was Keith Warwood of Otago Wreckers.

[Marky]

Well what you're describing isn't the normal behaviour of a just rebuilt motor

Take from that what you will I guess

[BriteLites]

Blocked radiator? Sounds like you have a bhg now tho...

[tydon]

i know keith personally dealt with him alot hes legit when it comes to rebuilds

[czar loc]

Blocked heater core possably

[jmz]

Still sitting at work, turns over fine but not a hint of starting/firing.

Does anyone have recommendations in Christchurch for potentially some serious $$$ work? I should be able to get a tow from roadside assistance.

[Rosssub]

Sounds like your up for a full rebuild, or the cheaper less reliable option of a second hand replacement engine. I'd vote for a blocked heater core too, causing HG failure or maybe a cracked head. Could pull the TMIC off and put the garden hose through the firewall heater hoses to see if there's any flow getting through (post mortem). Have you contacted Keith Warwood to discuss it?

I've recently had head work done by Cliff Bond Engine Reconditioning on Ferry Road, IIRC other CS members have used him too with good results.

[jmz]

Thanks for the recommendation.

It does seem likely that the original problem was a blocked heater core or radiator. I'm leaning towards radiator as that aligns with high water pump RPM simultaneously allowing flow and pushing coolant out the overflow (don't see how the heater core would cause that, except secondarily through coolant boiling/expansion?). Whatever it is, it was there right from the start, but I don't think Keith is particularly interested (could be wrong).

Even with a secondary failure like a cracked head or HG, is that enough to not make it fire or start at all? Would you expect that to still be (badly) drivable?

[WRXER]

Tony at RDL performance I would highly recommend, great guy Ul see my track car in there

[jmz]

Reason why it wasn't starting was a broken fuel pump. Getting volts at the connector.

Still looking at a radiator/heater core at a minimum though after that!

[jmz]

Just sourced a replacement pump (V7 STI). After I install it (and if it's still running), my plan is to empty the cooling system, test flow through the heater core and radiator, backflush with vinegar, and possibly install a heater core semi-bypass to forestall any future problems. Fingers crossed.

[jmz]

Replaced fuel pump. The dead one was a large-sized one from a WRX GC8.

Started, but pissing water out the exhaust. Must be the heads

Got it home, the CEL started flashing near the end, for 'oxygen sensor inoperable'. The radiator was also very hot on the inlet side and very cold on the outlet. I'm not sure whether I should look at it before getting someone to look at the heads.

I will be contacting Cliff Bond.